LowCarbZ

I checked all of them with a meter and they're fine. I followed the instructions from some links online that I came accross for the swap and wire jumpers. I'm just wondering what i've done wrong. I would assume those wires I jumped run power back through the relays on the passenger side footwell. I no longer hear the relays clicking inside the car when the key is in the "ON" position like I used to.

Had to wait a few days for the Alternator to come in... Anyway, I did the following: - Bolted in the alternator - Added the Diode to the "T" connector to allow the car to shut off with the key - Jumped the YELLOW and WHITE wire after removing the Regulator on the inner fender. - Jumped the BLACK /W WHITE LINE wire and the WHITE /W BLACK LINE wires - Hooked up the battery cable and the ground to the alternator. I fired the car up. It started and ran fine and actually for the first time with the key in the "ON" position I could actually hear the factory electric secondary fuel pump working in the back of the car, it never had. The car ran fine, alternator is charging and the car shuts off with the key. ONE PROBLEM! The heater controls (fan etc.) and the radio are dead. Everything else works on the car, the wipers, the lights. But the radio and heater controls do not. What am I missing here?

No obvious rubs or melts. I did however check the relays in the passenger compartment and all seemed well. With the car off I checked the connections at the alternator. The plastic plug connector in the back of it when pulled out with the car completely shut off and the key in the off position let out about a 1" arc between the connector and the point where it is usually plugged in. This lead me to what Daphur280 was talking about where the external regulator may be to blame keeping constant draw to the alternator which keeps the charge cycle in a loop. I found the following information online while searching tonight. I'm going to see if I can find another regulator in my parts collection and barring that i'll just upgrade the alternator to a newer internal regulator ZX design or try the diode fix if need be. http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm Thanks for the help so far. I'll post any info I come accross for others' future reference.

If I kill it i can still drive the car with the key in the off position. What components could be keeping the 12v circuit in a closed position? I am assuming a relay is to blame as I mentioned or your alternator regulator theory seems like a good one. The only reason I doubt the alternator is that I recall yesterday I went out to get in my car and the radio was on. I though maybe the key cylinder had let me remove the key while still slightly in the ACC position, however I ALWAYS lock the steering wheel. It's a habit. So something is keeping constant 12V power engaged when the car is completely turned off.

^ Thanks I will look into that. The only thing I can think is a short or possibly a relay that isn't working properly and won't kill the power? I'm just looking for suggestions and locations of components on the car that could be the cluprit. I think un-plugging the keyed ignition is a good indication that it is not the problem. That should've killed the engine if it were.

I own a 1974 early 260Z. The car generally runs great and hasn't given me a whole lot of unforeseen trouble. However, at the moment i'm stumped. Today on my lunch break I pulled in the driveway, shut the car off and it stayed running and didn't skip a beat as though I hadn't done a thing. I could lock the steering wheel and remove the key, the car would remain running. The only way I could get it to quit was if I snuffed it out with fuel using the manual choke. So logically I removed the cover around the steering column and started the car again. Even after disconnecting the ignition switch it would STILL remain running?!?! So I think this rules out the keyed switch being the problem unless there's something i'm missing here? Are there any "go to" fixes that have been known to cause this problem with Z's in the past? Other than that i'm just going to start chasing wires and looking for shorts after work today. But I can't figure out how it's still getting power if the ignition switch is out of the equation.

I've got my G25 Logitech ready and waiting for this to come out.

Thanks for the additional info. I haven't got around to doing it yet as i've been daily driving the Z as we're down a car. It will likely get pushed back until the snow flies and I re-build the carbs etc. I'll update this thread for sure though, good information.

That's awesome! Wish I could do a LeMons race it always looks like a good time.

From what I gather they're entirely re-buildable. I have a set of Koni reds on my Datsun and I love them.

I'm not in disagreement with you at all on the subject Nigel. There's no doubt that the RT setup can handle the duty and stress that the diff puts on it, it has been proven by multiple owners on this very forum. I just chose to retain the lower factory mount as i've seen others on this forum do in the past as well. The nice thing is, if you need the clearance, room for exhaust, or want to shave half a pound then the RT mount is a great design that is more than up to the task. I just like the idea that using the RT mount in combination with the factory lower mount things aren't going to move anywhere period. No deflection and it will likely increase the longievity of the poly GM mount due to no downward stresses to speak of from diff movement. But I do appreciate you sharing your thoughts on it, in the future when I change my suspension around and such I may re-evaluate it. And you're right, eliminating the factory lower mount would make it much easier to remove the driveshaft (however I work on the Z under a lift so it is pretty much a non-issue for me). All good points though.

That looks great. I just bought a bigger home with a 25 x 30ft garage attached to the basement. It's a mess from the move but i'm looking forward to organizing things and doing the floor. Really nice setup you have for sure. Which epoxy flooring product did you use and how did you like it? I'm trying to decide which one to buy.

Vibration isn't noticeable to me at all. Again, the car is low and loud so it's a little "bare bones" in the comfort/sound department. However, there is no shuddering through the car or anything like that it's very comfortable IMO. To be honest though, noise/vibration/harshness is entirely subjective. What I consider comfortable you may not be able to stand. My car is stiff and the ride is slightly harsh but tolerable for my tastes. I think it would be important to profile the poly to the nose of the diff when using the RT in combination with the lower mount. When I took the poly material down enough that the two tabs on the GM transmission mount were flush to the bolt holes everything lined up and bolted in basically as if it were stock. I suppose I should've taken some pictures of how I did it. Next time it's on the lift I will do just that.

I guess i'm just overkill with things? Hahaha. It crossed my mind to get rid of it and I know that I can. I just honestly wasn't a fan of having a single bolt holding it from above. That, and the lower mount helps protect from debris and the fact that my car is low I suppose.

I recently installed an RT mount on my car in tandem with the existing factory lower mount. I had a decent used mount from a parts car so i used it on the lower, to fit the diff in the car with the new Energy Suspension mount and RT setup I simply ground some of the poly material away to help it form to the top of the diff nose. This kept the driveline angles relatively stock and everything bolted right up into the car based on the RT mount plans previously posted in this thread.

Yeah if that was up here in Canukistan i'd say it's workable. But you're in the land of the Z's. Left coast cars are some of the cleanest around, certainly you can find a better starting point for little coin. Good luck!

^ Those Bride seats are gorgeous!

If you can get the classic version made up i'd be happy to be one of the first to showcase pics of those.

You guys are awesome as usual, thanks for all the info! 310Z i'll have a peek at your build, thanks. Tony, you always make me wonder if there is anything about Z's you DON'T know... Lostfairlady, I assume a setup like that will have to work for what i'm after. I was sort of after a banjo with the "T" on one end, but i'll make it work once I figure out the route i'll take. I am thinking that I will go with Russell's products. Brokebolt, the sizings are extremely helpful. I've narrowed the -AN equivelant size that I need to number 6 (as far as I can tell). I'm not worried about spending a few bucks to do it, i'm not into cheaping out on my Z, however I appreciate every bit of information supplied. Very helpful. Oh, and i'll dig this thread back up to show some pics once it's done.

I just stumbled across this picture: I could just route things a little further away as has been done in this shot unless someone else has a better input?

I was hoping I could find a source for a banjo "T" style like what is in the picture but have come up empty. I may have to take the route you're suggesting with a chunk of line from the banjo to the "T". The setup pictures is essentially the way my plumbing is at the moment.

I was searching around and can't seem to find much info. I'm looking to run Russell stainless braided fuel lines along with their AN compression fittings for my triple weber DCOE 40 setup. I understand i'd need three banjo fittings, and i'm assuming the measurment converts to AN number -6. However, i'm curious as to how to go about doing the "T" fittings at each carb to route fuel to the banjo bolts. Has anyone got pictures of Triples with such a setup or similar?

Just to clarify, my car came with a set of Koni reds when I bought it, hence the question. But I appreciated the response regardless. Thanks for being honest.

I'm thinking the problem lies in your linkage setup or choke cable. Have someone sit in the car and hit the gas while you watch the linkage. See if it moves the same as if you do it by hand.

Just wanted to say I like this attitude. Only way you'll really learn if no one knowledgeable is around to show you. Good on ya for sticking with it.