LowCarbZ

I bought these for about $265 + $40 shipping. Tall stalk S30 mirrors with the screws on the ends. Contact seller "gira7777" on e-bay. I ordered mine after losing an auction, the guy has piles of old JDM stuff, he's in Thailand I believe? Bangkok? Anyway, english is a little rough but he was great to deal with and very fair. He seems to come across these parts often and makes trips to Japan to buy more old JDM parts a few times a year. Link to seller: http://myworld.ebay.ca/gira7777/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

At least he didn't panic and had the presence of mind to drive off the road instead of freezing up and hitting the other car head on. So while he DID make a bad decision with a momentary lapse in judgement to make a chancey pass in the first place at least he didn't hurt anyone else and has good reactions.

Thanks, I took a chance and picked it up anyway. It is in great shape and I know Nissan/Datsun was big into "parts bin" manufacturing at the time so I took an educated guess. Appears to be a Forumling France wheel. Price was right, looks good.

I would usually search but I just need a bit of help today, I'm posting this from my phone. I am driving home across the province later today and have the chance to pick up a MOMO steering wheel for a good price on the way. It's from a Datsun 510, I assume the splines and mounting are the same, am I right? Will this 510 steering wheel fit on my 260? It comes with a mounting hub. Thanks.

I think this looks great, any idea what car the spoiler is off of/intended for?

My guess would be a seized spindle pin.

Here's a picture of mine on Enkei Mesh 92's (which look identical). Mine were originally gold but painted black:

Awesome story, good to see you've kept it around and in the family all these years. Future plans for the car?

Thanks for the info, those look great. A little more money than MSA or the like but if they fit that much better they're well worth it.

I bookmarked that link in case I have issues with my MSA weatherstripping I have yet to put in. My only question is on Courtesy Nissan's site, why is the passenger side door seal more than double the price of the driver's side???

I run Royal Purple 10W40, it has a reasonably high Zinc content (ZDDP).

I would assume you're using the wrong compound of pad for your driving style. "Melting" the pad and having pick-up on the rotor. We had this problem with my dad's Porsche 930 Turbo that we both track at a recent HPDE where there's a braking zone from 135MPH, the pads were vibrating. Changed to a better compound, problem went away and the pads last longer. Reading material: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/articlearchive/details.aspx?ID=207857

Nice looking Z. I think it's a reasonable price judging by how clean it is. I have a different perspective on pricing up here in the Salt Belt, clean Z's are hard to come by and usually bring a premium when found compared to down south.

Agreed 100%, I thought the same when I originally read that article when it came out. Having driven quite a few different cars on track this is usually the case when the brakes/fluid get warm enough to give up. Not sure what is expected, if you use something in a way it wasn't intended to be used there are risks associated with it.

$25K for a mess of parts to build ONE car? HA!

I have a G-Nose 74 260Z, if I can help in any way let me know.

So you have to pay a monthly fee for a SIM card from a phone company for it to work?

I was also wondering that. So the added noise is likely just transmitted through the RT mount and te poly mounted mustache bar? Your line of thinking "run it til it breaks" is likely solid advice that I usually live by. I guess I just try to be pro active with the old girl.

That's worth the rich mixture in my opinion hahaha.

I have a question about my R200. (Rather than start a new thread I figure it could be discussed here as relevant). I have replaced all my bushings with poly for the mustache bar etc. put in an RT diff mount and removed any "clunks" from the rear end. Brand new Spicer U-joints, everything appeared fine with the diff when I had it out of the car a year and a half ago. I barely drove the car at all last summer. There is now this odd "whirring" sound coming from what sounds like the rear of the car. I can only describe it as a whirring that chatters slightly which is more pronounced at around 25-30mph or less. If the car is under load the sound pretty much goes away but when I coast off the gas it makes this "whirr-whirr-whirr" sound (the dashes are a break in the sound of silence). I'm not sure if maybe i'm mistaken and it's a noisy clutch in need of replacing but it certainly sounds like it's coming from the rear. There is a slight I will call it "howl" at highway speeds that isn't obnoxiously loud but it's still there. Any input before I go hauling everything back out again?

Really glad there doesn't appear to be any structural damage.

For all those who asked, I did this: Full size: Avatar sized:

The Z is running a little rich so I decided to take a video of it shooting flames. I'd heard it does this from other, just never seen it myself. Figured you guys might enjoy it:

So very, very true. I remember the struggle I had two years ago with the spindle pins, it was a good learning experience. Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up. All of this is very, very true. I just went ahead and did my own take on an RT style diff mount, brand new poly bushings everywhere and new u-joints. Tightened everything up nice and all the horrible noises went away.