Pillar

I understand the issue with bad roads. It is hard to say if you can find a middle-ground for suspension because everyone's tastes are different. A decent set of sport springs with new shocks will probably not be as stiff as getting a full coilover kit, but it still may be stiffer than you want. As for ride height, there are some lowering springs that only drop the car about an inch or so, and in some cases people have put lowering springs on their cars and actually GAINED height because their old factory springs were worn out and sagging so bad. This could very well be the case for your car as well, but it might not. If your springs struts are old and worn, replacing them for just some new stock replacements could also make a world of difference. NewZed did a nice job of explaining the factory ECU's inherent problem with modification. For a daily driver like yours, it is not really possible to gain any real power while retaining the factory ECU, especially for only $1000. Not to say it is not possible at all, but gaining a bit more power on the high end as NewZed explained, will make the engine run very rich throughout the rest of the RPM range which will definitely make it less pleasant for the daily drive (mpg will suffer, you will probably get a pretty strong smell of gas from the exhaust, etc.). The other side of things (running clean down low and lean up top) is not good either. Running lean raises cylinder temperatures and can result in pre-detonation which can destroy a motor, and will burn your valves up as well. Doing a rebuild of the top end may be able to gain back some HP that the motor has lost over the years, so that may be worth it. If you do a lot of the work yourself and shop around for parts, you can do it for quite cheap. Definitely look through the L Series forum as NewZed suggested. There are lots of good ideas in there. The big thing to ask yourself is what is more important to you: a comfortable daily driver, or something with a bit more power? Not that you cant have both, but you will need to spend quite a bit more than $1000 to do so. Pillar

The factory L28 ECU does not take well to much modification to the engine. Like Tony stated, there isnt really much you can do for only $1000 that will give you any noticeable power increases. If you are planning on keeping the L28 and sticking with fuel injection (not switching to carbs) then going with Megasquirt would be a good first step. You will not be able to "realize" any real power increases from things like a cam or doing port/intake work if you are still just going with the factory ECU since it cant cope with the changes. Going Megasquirt first will not gain you much as far as power goes, but it will lay the foundation for future mods and will allow you to get the most of those mods. Another option for your $1000 would be to sink it into suspension (if yours is not already upgraded). A nice coilover system, or even just some sport springs and struts can make a huge difference. This will also set you up to be able to better handle any large power increases down the road. Personally, I feel that having a car that can handle the turns much better is much more fun that a car with a little extra HP. But that is my opinion as I am more into the daily drive on windy roads and autocross than drag racing. However, be prepared for ride quality to suffer a bit. Being as it is your daily driver, stiffening the suspension may not be the thing for you if you like a soft ride. But you may not care about that all that much, or you may be able to find a nice middle-ground that works for your tastes/needs. Good luck! Pillar

Yeah, I was thinking that if it wasn't attached that it would allow air to wedge its way between the splitter and air dam, as well as the air dam loading up and deforming. This obviously would be worse if your splitter went the full 3 inches out and/or at very high speeds. Is your air dam fiberglass, or urethane? I agree, that a bit of protection from cones is also a bonus (especially if it is fiberglass).

Looks really good! I like the understated look it has with it only extending 1" out versus the full 3". How do you have it attached to the bottom of the front air dam? Double-sided tape? I see the mounting brackets that tie it into the radiator supports and all, I was just wondering if it is held to the air dam with anything, or if it just relies on upward tension from the mounts.

Have you seen the Weather Pack (GM Delphi) connectors? I recommend them for things like the headlights and other exterior connections. They are sealed very well against rain/dirt. I have replaced all of my exterior lighting connectors as well as a number of engine harness connectors with them. I do suggest that if you purchase them, that you grab one of the crimp tools. It makes installation so much faster and gives you perfect crimps. There are a lot of folks that sell them on eBay, but I prefer to order through performanceplusconnection.com. Have the best selection that I have found, and you can order the connectors individually which is great if you have a bunch of different plugs to replace (2-pin, 3-pin, 4-pin, etc.). Pillar

Anybody in the market for a transmission usually takes the opportunity to upgrade to a 5-speed. Therefore, the market is usually flooded with 4-speed transmissions that nobody really wants. Even a rebuilt 4-speed is not going to be as desirable as a used 5-speed in usable condition (especially if it is a later model "close-ratio" 5-speed). However, it is worth what someone will pay for it. So if someone who just needs a transmission to get their car on the road, or is looking to rebuild theirs anyways, yours might be worth a bit more to them, but it may be a while before that person comes along. And even then, they will likely see that there are a ton of other 4-speeds for sale out there for very cheap. I have seen working 4-speeds go for as cheap as $25 out here on the east coast (and Datsun parts are much less common out here than out west). There was even a guy giving one away on Craig's list a few weeks back. As for the motor, what Blu said is pretty much the standard.

I could be wrong, but 100psi seems rather high to me. The factory gauge (at least on my 76 280Z) only reads up to 90psi, and I have never gotten it up there. I assume by this, that your motor oil has not been changed in a long time either? Has it been sitting for years like the trans as well? If that is the case, I would replace the oil before driving it anywhere (especially in the motor as you are much more likely to cause damage in the motor due to oil oil than you are the trans). The old trans fluid may be fine for a few laps around the block, but it all depends on how bad it is. If it isnt that dirty or sludgy, then it will likely not hurt anything to drive it a short distance at low speeds. But if it looks like molasses or has absorbed a large amount of water, metal filings, or rust, then it could potentially cause some lasting and/or severe damage. Again, it might be fine to run around the block a few times with what is in there, but some bottom shelf/cheap oil that is brand new will be better than even the priciest oil that has sat for years and is full of impurities, and could save you from doing much more costly and long term damage.

I have a 76, and my fuel system has never held pressure after shut-down as long as I have owned it (however I have an original fuel pump that is getting quite tired, so that could be why). It had raised questions for me as well, but all my searching left me with no definitive answer. Some people have claimed that the stock system holds pressure, while others claim that it is normal for it to bleed pressure off. If everything is working properly, and fuel isnt leaking out I wouldnt think there is any reason to worry. You said you had a new pump and that your injectors were not leaking, so if all it is doing is draining back into the gas tank, it is no problem. I will tell you, that my experience (and a lot of others have voiced the same) with the aftermarket "stock" replacement FPRs, is that they are crap. Many people have had them go bad within a year. Mine actually failed within a week, and it could have potentially caused quite a bit of damage if I hadnt caught the problem. The diaphragm between the vacuum (intake manifold) side and the fuel side blew out, so basically my intake manifold completely filled with fuel to the point that it was pouring out of the air filter. It actually flooded 2 of the cylinders as well (which can brake things like piston rings if it is compressed). Luckily nothing on mine broke and I replaced it immediately with an aftermarket FPR. Not trying to say that all aftermarket "stock" units go bad, but just that they seem to be prone to it. I suggest that if you cant get ahold of an actual Nissan factory FPR, that you just go with a decent aftermarket FPR from someone like Aeromotive. Brand new ones can be had for as little as $150 or so for a decent one (which is actually about the price of a factory Nissan unit last I checked).

That is pretty cool. How close in size is the Miata dash to the original? Any more photos you could show (where the dash meets the windshield, where the dash meets the pillars/doors, shots from a little further back, etc.)? I (as well as others I'm sure) am curious as to how it all looks when seen along with the rest of the car's older styling. Very cool mod though. I'm interested to see what your solution for the center console ends up being.

NewZed has the right idea. For only having $80 in it, you are not risking much. If it is indeed rust, driving it around the block a few times should knock it all off and clean up all the surfaces. I would start out at low speeds and run through all the gears, then gradually work your way up a bit. If it gets better (which may be a very gradual thing) then keep at it. Once the transmission warms up, things should work even better (assuming you have good fluid in it). It goes without saying (even though I am obviously saying it anyways) that if the noise or grinding gets worse, you probably should return to base and reevaluate. Have you opened your drain plug and looked at the fluid at all? I know you said it has been sitting for a few years. Oil (especially when used or stored in something like a transmission for a long time) can break down over time. This is why you are supposed to change engine oil after a certain time period (ex: every 6 months) regardless of how many miles you put on it in that time. There are a lot of other substances/build-ups/chemicals/etc in engines and transmissions that can change the effectiveness of the oil. This is also true if there is any moisture that has infiltrated into the case, as real as any rust resulting from said moisture. It may be worth replacing the trans fluid for something new (even if it is something off the shelf at your local parts store). I would especially recommend changing fluid if a few laps around the block causes things to start working better. If it is indeed because of rust or corrosion, then all that stuff that has now been cleaned off your gears/forks/etc, is now dirtying up your fluid. Again, hope you can figure it out. Pillar

You mentioned that the clutch hydraulics were not set up properly. I would address this issue first before thinking that the trans is messed up. If the clutch is not fully disengaging when you push in the pedal, then the input shaft on the trans will still be spinning along with the motor (just slipping a lot). This could indeed cause a lot of grinding and difficulty while trying to shift into gears. The fact that you are only having trouble with 5th gear doesnt negate the clutch as a likely issue. I suggest getting the clutch sorted and see if that clears up any issues. If it doesnt, well then you can at least eliminate it as a potential cause for your problems, and as you stated it needs to be adjusted anyways, so no loss.

Shortening the shifter will definitely require you to use more force to get it into gear, but unless you shortened it to like 5 inches long, you should still be able to shift it relatively easily. The early 280Z 5-speeds had a somewhat common issue of having the 5th gear go bad due to that fact that it shares a fork with the reverse gear (this is a reason, in addition to the closer ratio, why the later model 280ZX trans is more desired). I have never experienced this issue myself so I really dont know the specific symptoms that others have may experienced when running into this issue (and it may vary) but I would think this could be a likely possibility. Now as you stated, if the trans has been standing up for a long time, the gears at the back will be very dry. You said that you had previously torn it down to look things over. Did you shift through the gears after reassembly? If so, did you notice any issues then? If not, it could just be that years of sitting with the gears out of the oil and drying out is what is causing the noise (however unlikely). Another thing to consider is where it was stored. I have seen transmissions (even ones stored in garages) that have sat for a long time gather rust on the inside. Moisture has a nasty way of finding its way into everything eventually, and if the gears were not covered in oil, eventually they could develop a touch of rust (even inside the case) if a small bit of moisture gets in. Now usually the amount of rust I am talking about is extremely minuscule (most of the time just a few tiny spots of surface rust on the gears) but even a tiny bit of rust can cause things do be difficult to move if it is in just the right spot. Whatever is the issue, I hope you are able to figure it out. Good luck! Pillar

I agree with all above. When I picked up my Z a little over 2 years ago, I struggled with a similar choice (fix up the L6 it had now and get it back on the road, or wait much longer and get the motor I really want in it). I decided to do a basic rebuild on the motor for cheap so I could get it back on the road and enjoy it now, and just save up to do the motor I really want the right way down the road. I can confidently tell you, there is not a day that I regret that decision. Instead of looking at a project that I cant fully enjoy for the past two years, I have been driving a car that is a ton of fun (even stock). It also helps to keep your project moving by being able to get it on the road and use it now (assuming doing so doesnt cost a mint). I have seen too many dream projects stall and never get completed because people got tired of waiting/lost interest/life happened/etc. Having a car project that you can actually drive and enjoy (even if it isnt 100% what your final goal is) will keep the project fun and exciting. And as others have stated, avoiding excess debt is always going to work out better for you in the end. Regardless of your choice, I wish you the best of luck with your build! Pillar

Very cool. Thanks for sharing! I am always interested in what parts from other cars can be directly swapped into the S30. The grinding to the bell housing doesnt quite make it as a "direct swap", but that amount of modification is negligible enough that I would still count it as "bolt in". How is the clutch feel on the 350Z unit? My stock 280Z unit is insanely easy to press (not sure if that is normal or if mine is just starting to feel the years). Just wondering how much stiffer the 350Z unit makes it.

Running rich shouldnt really "flood" the motor. By "flood" do you mean that the plugs are a little damp, or is there actually fuel filling the cylinder. If you truly flooded the motor while it was running, there is a chance that you could have broken a piston ring (essentially hydro-locking the motor). The increased pressure of the cylinder trying to compress a bunch of liquid (potentially in this case, a large quantity of fuel) then something will have to give. And it can often be piston rings or worse. Is the cold-start valve still hooked up? These are notorious for sticking open and causing the car to run very rich and sometimes flood. The process for checking this has been posted many times before, and is also found in the FSM. I would also check the fuel pressure regulator as well. The original FPR is a vacuum-referenced unit, meaning it uses intake vacuum/pressure to adjust fuel. These units just have a diaphragm that separates the intake side from the fuel side. If this diaphragm fails (it has happened to me before) it will just pump fuel directly into the intake. To test this, remove the small vacuum hose that connects the FPR to the intake plenum. Take a much longer vacuum hose (at least enough to drape over the fender and out of the engine bay) and then run the fuel pump. If fuel sprays out of the vacuum hose, then the diaphragm has failed. You may want to have a friend hold the hose for you while you cycle the pump because if the diaphragm is indeed blown, the fuel can spray out quite forcefully and you can get fuel everywhere if you are not holding it steady (kind of like running the garden hose without holding onto it). Good luck! Pillar

Did the engine run before? Have you changed anything since the last time it ran well that may have caused an issue? If it ran before, did it run well, or was it rough? Double check your timing first. The distributor is adjustable, and if it has loosened up and spun, it will change your timing. If that is fine, and you still suspect it is running rich, then do a check on the usual suspects (CSV, Temp switches and sensors, etc.). Good luck! Pillar

As NewZed stated, be very careful when removing the plastics around column. They brake quite easily and are very difficult to find replacements for (unless you want to spend a lot). I personally like to remove my steering wheel when working in that area. It is quite easy to do and makes removal of the plastics much easier. It also allows you an unobstructed view of the turn signal switch and mechanism. To remove the steering wheel, press the horn pad in all the way (I suggest disconnecting the battery first so you dont draw attention from the neighbors) and turn it counter-clockwise. It will pop right off after that and allow you to unbolt the wheel. I have never needed a steering-wheel puller for this either. If it seems a bit stuborn to come off, leave the center nut on about half way and give the wheel a few firm tugs towards you (giving it a few firm hits from the back of the wheel with your fist and wiggling it as you pull can help as well). The reason I suggest leaving the nut on half way is so when it finally comes loose, you dont smack yourself with it. Good luck! Pillar

Have you checked with Pallnet? He still makes them as far as I know.

Have you tried a local rim/wheel repair shop? I know you said you have tried automotive machine shops, but I mean a place that specializes in only rims/wheels. I have seen a few shops around here (East Coast) that repair rims including re-drilling center bores and lug patterns. I would think if they can do it on a rim, they might be able to do a rotor as well since the concept is basically the same.

I would suggest telling folks a bit more about your project first. Give lots of details (condition, specific plans, what you want out of the project, etc.) and post some pictures. Maybe start a post in the "Member s Projects" forum. Basically, show everyone what you have and what you have accomplished so far to get them interested in your project and show that you are worth helping (not saying you arent, just that there are a lot of folks that pop up on this forum just looking for help and dont care to contribute to the community themselves). People are not very likely to help someone who just asks a very broad question. I understand that you are specifically asking for someone in your location to help you out, but it is hard for people to get interested in your project if they know nothing about it. Again, just a suggestion, not trying to give you a hard time. Just trying to do what I can to help from 900 miles away Anyways, good luck with your Z endeavors! Pillar

Pallnet still makes fuel rails for the Zs if I am not mistaken. Drop him a message and he may be able to whip one up for you.

That sounds like the right track. Any big power increase is eventually going to require a new EMS, so it would be best to start there. That could be done simultaneously with a new intake system (manifold, delete AFM, larger TB, etc.) since doing so will require EMS mods anyways. After that, you will have the ability to make adjustments to the EMS as you do more modifications such as head work, cam, etc. Then you should be well on your way to the power you want. Pillar

What NewZed said is very true and the links he provided are well worth the read. I hadn't meant that upping the CR would be the solution to the kind of power you want, just that to get that kind of power you will need more than simple bolt-ons like exhaust/headers/intake.

To get anything close to 300hp out of an N/A L6 is going to be quite expensive. Even 220 is something that will require a lot more than just exhaust and intake mods. To begin with you will need to change out engine internals. Switching to flat-top pistons and swapping the head to boost your compression will do a lot, but it sounds like you are mostly interested in bolt-ons right now. Headers/exhaust can give you a little bit, but you won't break into the 200s with just simple exhaust and intake mods. There are not many quick swaps for intake components to begin with (a common one is to upgrade to a 240SX throttle-body) and how much power they give you is widely debated ( some claim 5-10hp, while others claim it doesn't do anything unless other more complicated intake mods are done as well). One major limiting factor in the 280Z intake is the AFM. You can swap out for a bigger TB and port out the intake, but unless you can upgrade to a higher flow AFM or eliminate it all together (which is not a simple swap and requires quite a bit of modification) you are likely to see little or no gains from the other mods. These motors have proven that they can make well into the 300s, but that normally requires a complete engine overhaul including extensive head work if you want to see that N/A. There are shops like Datsun Spirit and Robelo that build 300+ hp L6s, but to the tune of $6000+ usually. That being said, even a stock tuned S30 is a lot of fun, and a few small mods can make it a complete blast even while remaining below 200hp. Enjoy Pillar

Zcarsource sells a replacement for about $200: http://www.zcarsource.com/heater-core-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx_8_56539.html MSA also sells them, but they are even more expensive: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic09a08 Pillar