BillZ260

CAREFULL w/ that tranny!!!! I had a TH-350 that was doing the same thing, locking up in drive, and it ended up tossing a Con Rod through the pan after a couple days of driving it like that...not fun. ( Wanna talk about bad luck, I called the transmission shop for a free tow due to the above, they said, try to baby it in here and on the way to the shop i tossed the rod! ) That was a long time ago, was too young and stupid to get anything done by the shop. Today would be a different story...

Deja, reading this made me realize something!!!! When I started my new SBC in December, I tried to bolt on the exhaust that Mikelly had sold be to the headers I already had only to be rejected when the flanges on the exhaust tubes didn't match the clocking of the flanges on the headers... This might be my solution, DOH! Thanks

Uhhhhh....... Cool

Thanks tfreer85! I'll start there. Apparently I missed that in your FIRST POST! DOH!!!

Daeron, Thanks!! you have PM

Nice header! So can you explain the benifit? Just curious. Thanks

Easy outs can be a pain! But can be the right tool depending on the situation. Sears has some called "Bolt Out" This is the set I have; and have used them a number of times. It has not failed me yet. As long at there is room for the teeth to start, as you turn your ratchet counter clockwise, the teeth dig into the OUTSIDE of the bolt to the point that they bottom out or start backing out the bolt. They are very hard and should work w/ the flywheel bolts you have. I imagine them working on just about anything short of tool steel. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952160000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Oh, and usually this will ruin the bolt head, if it's still there, but they DO work

Those are fun! All of them. What's the best way to get started? I've been messing around but I am not really geting very far...

It is very easy to get caught up in others stupidity! When you were young it you didn't think about consiquenses!!! Now that we're 'older', its just about all you think about Around home, Oklahoma, you never know who has a gun in there car, legally. You really have to be carefull. I've had a few waved me in my day, and it is NOT cool. I have been driving a rental in Dubai for about a month now and it is just aweful, seriously, bad driving. I try to remain calm, especially since there are always others in the car w/ me, but I can truely be tough sometimes. Glad he didn't clip you and that things didn't escelate.

Dunno, like the 1st one though. 2nd one looks familiar but can't place it.

Ron, how much work did it take to get that C4 interior in your Z?? Cool idea!

Just buy the JTR and a GM Yolk off Ebay or the driveshaft shop. Then make sure you aske them how to take measurments, i think some guy's work with slightly different tecniques. Should cost you about 150 all total.

All i can say is WHOAHOHOHOHOOOOOO! Very nice. Congrats.

OK, here are a couple that I've seen lately and love! Can't really see the top of the scheme on this on this shot, but it's of a model. It's the one of the Vette's that ran at Le Mans in 67 I think. I'm really liking this red white and blue, you can't really tell but the power bulge is bright red and runs all the way back. Model Actual Car The modern Grand Sport Vette Stunning but I think I'd do Blue on top Good idea on the Gulf layout. Might change the colors a bit, but I do like it. This is closer to what that may look like on a Z From here, I think I'll look for a nice clean white Z pic and print out several dozen copies and start drawing and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the input thus far

I"m w/ Phil, I think that plate looks off.

Doesn't have to be datsun either, I like the 90's grand sport paint layout as well as others. I'm open to all suggestions

I am looking for a paint scheme for my car. I am not set on anything yet, but want to get some idea's for a clean simple paint layout. I absolutly love the BRE Z paint lines but I want to see what else is out there. Does anyone have some good shots of the few Z's that ran at Le Mans. I have only found like one or two on google, anyone here have any? I'm also, any other race paint schemes so post them if you have them. Something simple and unique is what I'm after. I want to take one and street-a-fy it for my car but I don't have a collection of them, I have some but not alot. Thanks!

OK, so to take the ign switch off i need to remove the top adn bottom clamp screws on the arm holding the switch on? I guess I'll buy another one or a cheap generic switch and remount it somewhere else.

Pete, all the above makes me happy I chose your subframe design! It's amazing to me the breadth of knowlege we have here.

I have worked for Baker Hughes, which is a Oil Service company, out of Houston for over 10 years now, more if you count the apprenticeship years before i started full time. I was 17 i think when I started that, and I just turned 31! Sheesh. Started out at Baker Oil Tools in Broken Arrow, OK (they produce saftey systems at that facility, mostly for large production, high pressure wells / systems there) School / Machinist apprentice School / Machinist School / Admin - Company switched to SAP software which got be a starting possition in the office. School / Customer Service School / Planning / Scheduling Graduated in 2003 after 9, yes 9 years of night school! Got into some Knowledge Management Development before I left there. Currently based in Claremore for Centrilift, same comany different division.(We produce downhole and above ground pumping systems for lower pressure wells / systems). Right now I am working on Global implementation of SAP for the Centrilift Division. SAP is basically an enterprise software that large companies use to run all aspects of their business on. With my manufacturing back ground, I primarily have been focusing on production and inventory process activites. The USA and Canada are done, I'm working in Dubai for the Middle East Implementation, there is another team in Aberdeen working on the UK Implementation and we will continue around the globe till we are done sometime in 2008. At home I do almost all my own work, for two reasons, I'm cheap and I enjoy it EDIT : OK, looking at my responce compared to some of the others I'm wondering...I talk too much, AND / OR I just really like what I'm doing!

So how many Primadonna Z kits were produced and sold? It is hard for me to grasp how ahead of the times you guys were w/ those cars. Unbeliveable! Very nice! I like that front valance, maybe I can create a non-wide body version w/ oval signals instead of square. You guys are still inspiring!!!

Bump... Won't be back home till March. Any help would be appretiated.

That's an easy solution But I don't really want my car to start right now. I'm leaving out for the UAE again this afternoon and don't really want my car to start again unless I can run it for a while, set the Idle, timing etc. I need to fix the issues i had from the first time we fired it up. Was hoping that someone could test or confirm the switch wiring / lay out for me. I guess i could pull the starter solinoid wire off the starter and test the coild wire while I 'hotwire' it.

So that would be a 18,025cc Z? or 18 Liters??? That thing is HUGE!

And if so how hard is it to remove, do I need to let the steering column drop? This is continued from my post on getting my Z started for the first time about a month ago. The issue I was having was that ONLY the STARTER was getting 12V when the switch was in the START position. So what was happening is that it would crank and crank and never fire untill I let off the starter, which made for some tricky starts None of the poles are hot in the START and the ON positions. Jeff was helping me and he thinks my switch has gond bad so today I had some time to test and this is what I got... Here are the post positions on the swith as if looking at the dash through the switch (Since they are on the back of the switch). ..........| --- 1. 4. ---| | --- 2. 5. ---| | --- 3. SWITCH POSITION and POLES that are ACTIVE across each other ACC POSITION #4 & #5 are active ON POSITION #4 & #5 are active START POSTIION #1, #2, #3, & #5 are active. It seems to me that one of the poles needs to be hot when in START and ON positions. Obviously # 5 is my 12V supply. Am I missing something? Your thoughts? Maybe someone has an exrtra switch laying around they can test? Jeff (Aguyandaredhead) said he has an extra, i'll pick it up if mine is bad, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong.