BillZ260

Funny, Second one looks staged

Nice install! Trophy shop is a great solution

its 125 bucks, let it ride. Someone here has put it better than this here before but money and friends don't mix. If you ever give a buddy money, consider it a gift. IF he gives it back then your good, if not then oh well, you were helping out a friend.

JackHammer I love the leather dash, did you do that yourself? What did it set you back, time/$$ wise. Very nice interior, original w/ modern materials, beautiful!!!

I am really anticipating this testing. This is a great thing

Take it apart, then to a good machine shop. They should take it and let you know if it's usable or not.

Inflation is crazy, I only lost $80 for my scam... I dealt w/ the same company, don't do it

Tulsa, Oklahoma working in Dubai, UAE

Dunno alot about auto tranies but i've messed around w/ the TH350 and read a bunch about the 200 and 700R's before I decided on a manual for my Z. So I'll throw a coupld of things out there. The TH350 has a vacum line to the valve body if you disconnect and PLUG it, it will change the VB to full manual, I'm pretty sure. (your 700R has one right or is it electronic?) So, if you remove the vacume or electric signal to the trans telling it when to shift, and disconnect the kick-down cable from the carb linkage, you should be able to shift it manually 1-2-3-OD and vice versa. If you can shift manually, then your issue is in the adustment of the Kickdown or TV (always trying to kick down?) or the vacume / electric signal to the VB. If you can't shift manually then the issue is probably in the tranny. Keep checking the fluid for burning and low level, check it cold and hot untill you are POSITIVE there is enough in there. EDIT: OH!!! and are you SURE you have the correct shifter and have it adjusted correctly? I can't imagine how you would not have Neutral unless the linkage is not adjusted correctly. It's esay to get the wrong hardware w/ an aftermarket "one size fits all" type shifter.

Cold Fusion, Depending on how many orders you get (or however this is going to work) maybe you could design a 3 pc button for a couple of reasons. 1st piece would be mounted to the wheel, 2nd pc as an isolater for the shocking issue, and the 3rd pc could an interchangable show pc. (read many designs, or satin / polished finishes etc... for the differnt folks) Just a thought.

The "BlACK CHROME" kit says it can be applied on a nickle base. Can I assume the nickle content in the stainless trim on our S30s is high enough to accept this treatment? GREAT LINK!

Is that an invitation?

I think mine are the 6 ton, work very well.

Dr...your car scares me a bit. NICE!

Neat project. Anyone know j99fbody on that forum? I'm in love w/ his 72 firebird!!!

congrats, fun find!

You could entertain speakers mounted on the floors just in front of the seat. You may be able to project the sound off the windshield, a friend suggested it as he'd seen it done in some installs. Should be able to keep it low profile and if they are close to the seat, they shouldn't affect legroom at all. Just a thought.

I'd have to suggest you go w/ Mike JTR's stuff. It's cheaper than what you can do it yourself for if you price materials and your time / equipment, and it's right the first time.

I have no clue as to what is better spacer or no but I can comment on drilling and tapping the ring gear. Simply put, I wouldn't do it. That ring is hardenend steel that was most likely cut first then heat treated later making it exreamly tough. Carbide tools would do the trick but unless you have very good SOLID mounting hardware for your drill press, getting done will be difficult.

Looks like a pretty solid car, dunno much about 914's but seems like a heck of a deal for a project car! What carb is that? Must not be cheap to handle the pressure eh?

Stony, I'm not sure how its applied specifically, probaly simular to electroplating or anodizing. But, Titanium coatings are usually used for abrasion resistance on cutting tools like turning inserts, end mills and drill bits. I guess it could be used as a corrosion protection but seems like an expensive option. From what I have seen, it is usually bright gold or titanium grey in color and has a dull finish like anodized alum. I dunno if it would have heat dissapating proporites or not and that is why they advertized it on the header or if it's just a bling thing to sell them for a bit more? I am not an expert, just passing on what I (think I) know.

Cool! Does it weigh much more than the orginal or are they close?

Cool, need on of those close to home

If you look at the rear inside fo the brake drum, you will see the cable for the E-Brake. There is a pin one each side that attaches the cable to a lever that apply's the brake. You can pull those pins for a temp fix. Be sure to replace them when you get the problem resolved, and while you drive the car in this state, make sure you take some wheel chocks w/ you!!!

I see how it can seem rough at times, but I'm comfortable w/ how things are managed here. It's like anything else, if you don't manage it, it will get out of hand, so I'm glad all the Admins are keeping this house clean. I'm glad I don't have to read flaming posts against my dumb questions, and boring commentary posts, all I have to deal w/ is my name being the last post in the thread ...... Oh, and the crickets