BillZ260

OK, I picked up the checker and measured the pushrods that were in the engine, they were right at 7.800" maybe a hair less but I'm guessing not seing that they ussually come in .05 increments right? This is measured TIP to TIP. I checked the valves on the nubmer 1 cyl and verified on cyl 4. The gap was between the checker and the valve tip for both valves. Measured gap at both intakes (larger), measured ~.063ish. Measured gap at both exhausts (smaller), measured ~.093ish. SO, do I need (7.707)7.700 and (7.738)7.750? HELP EDIT: Grumpy I know you said usually SBC's have the same length rods for intake and exhaust. The Deck hight on my block is stock, as far as I know, heads are brand new Edelbrock RPM alum heads. I can get the part numbers if that helps. Currently, I have stock rocker arms, but am considering 1.5 rollers, dunno if this changes anything but thought I'd mention it. I also see that 7.700 and 7.750's are available but have only seen them in sets of 16 each! I'll look some more. I'm new to this stuff, so I really appretiate you guy's imput! I'm learning alot doing this myself and it's fun. Thanks so much!!!

I can afford to buy it and keep the explorer, wife doesn't think ANYONE needs 3 personal cars. So i'll see if I can make my case. If not, oh well, the z has enough style for me I suppose. I just really like the lines of older vehicles, you know?

That is an interesting find, and a great post. I applaud you for figuring out what the gremlins are all about, I'm sure this contributes to 80% of them! I also aplaud you for going through the complete harness and 'rebuilding' it instead of buying new. (that's what I did)

There is one in the town I'm working in, a 73 'ranger'. Looks decent, ran smooth, didn't try the 4x since the guy said it was low on fuel. Looked like minimal surface rust from what I could tell unerneath, nothnig rotted through that i could see anywere. Missing one rear side glass and some minimal body damage from a trampoline? Has a 289, auto, 2sp case and some tall mudders on it. Looking to loose the 94 exploerer for another daily vehicle. This bronc isn't quite there but it could be, but I don't want it to distract from my final steps of getting the Z drivable... (of phase one [getting it running/moving under it's own power]). Logically, I should just drive the explorer till it craps out totally, get the Z rolling and find something else later. What you fella's think? He's listed it as 4500 which seems like a decent deal compared to other early broncos out there in worse shape. Any of you had experience w/ these old trucks? Things to look out for etc? I'll talk to the wife and see what she thinks. I'll loose air, pwr brakes, windows and all that jaz, dunno if I want two vehicles that are like that, but I've always wanted one. Just thought I run this by 'yall. Not really looking for a mudder/ rock crawler, just a cool old truck to drive. Suggestions?

Very cool, and fun! But...where's the S30?

I'm slowly learning that technique myself! Thanks again.

They got dropped from the hosting site at some point. I'll venture to guess that they are gone forever since I have a different computer now. I'll look to see what I can find and repost. Once this table is gone we'll be able to finish up the room. (floors, lighting ceiling)

Guy is coming to get the pool table next Sat, with that cash, I'll buy up the clutch parts I need and my drive shaft ordered Picking up a pushrod checker Wed (had to be ordered) and will continue work on the long block as well. I'm kinda freaking out now because this thing is actually starting to come together!

No sweat, thanks for the Pic

Thanks for the concern Pete. What I meant was that Summit's prices were about 80-100 above the vendor's you listed earlier for both pieces plus a new 3/4" master cyl.

Can you show a pick of it mocked up? Shipping? What you want for it? Cool

At first i was like damn! That car took a beatin' I really like the exaust!

Grumpy? Can you chime-in again? Do I need to roll the motor w/ a solid lifter and do all that rigamarole or will this plastic guage get me close enough for a street driven, sub 6k rpm enging?

Made my day! Been thinking of that radiator vent, similar to 'blueovalz'. Very sweet car!

Very interesting, keep us posted on your findings. Pics are good too!

That guy did a great job, very funny!

I was in Tech school for 4 years and worked in the shop for a total of about 7. It's been almost that long since I've done it as a day to day job but like Ddog says, your skills stay with you. I don't really have room or I'd have a mill and a lathe in the garage...

good idea, I wish I'd have done something like that, all I can do is pretty much guess. Looks good, if you know access you could build a quick and easy entery form and stick it in quickly when your done working on the car.

260's differ in suspension depending on the build date. The early chasis were a continuation of the '73 240's. The frame and suspension pieces are all similar to the 240. The later 260's were the start of the 280 re-design, I think the 280 stuff is a bit larger in size. So you could have in advertantly bought early parts and needed late or vice vera. Take the serial number off your chassis and do some web searching to see if you have an early or late. I have some somewhere but I doubt I have 4. I can check if you'd like. Also, you might looking at returning the struts you've got for the correct size and you should get the glad nuts you need. Good luck, took me a while to figure out all the 260 subdleties (sp?).

Looks like the pool table is going for at lease 500! Should cover all my clutch components!

Just fyi for you valve train dummies like me, this is simple and straight forward!!! This, for me, was much easier to understand than the link in the other geometry thread. This is great I'll be picking one of these checkers up tomorrow at the local speed shop Grumpy, you will make an engine builder out of me yet!

WOW! I want air!! Very clean great job man!

have you used the aluminumrepair stuff? Iv'e seen it in infomercials, looks too good to be true. Would be nice to have around if it worked that well!

I like the gto nose on the Z regular body...

Painless was nice for me because I am a beginner when it comes to wiring and circuits and all that, so it was worth the $$ for me. If you can build your own from components, that's probably the way to go. If the ZX wiring is anything like the old Z's, stay away, they suck. Just my opinion.