BillZ260

Yes I did Are you runnig the JTR position or the Scarab? When I try to put my alt right where you have it, it runs into the motor mount brackets. I finished up my stand off's yesterday, I'll take some pics. I need to measure to see if it's going to hit the inner fender. BTW, thanks for the help and the great pics, nice and clear. Hard to see your motor mounts though. EDIT: Looking at my and your pics again, I might pull the motor mounts, set up the alt down there and see what it would take to keep it there.

got it out yesterday, should be seeing it tuesday or so. Hope it works out for you.

Well, there isn't much out there that I found, i'll sift through summit this weekend. Looks like I can maybe use a modified flat alternator pulley or a power steering pulley to work. If you run by something, be sure to post, thanks!

...BTW, just orderd my Z rated WC gearset, billit keys, and Master rebuild kit from the Gearbox! Ships out Monday, hopefully I can get this ready to receive all the new goodies! What about the Z rated gear set makes it stronger? jk...

Your right the contact area for the straight cut is shorter. I was thinking of an actual heilical cut, not a straight angled cut. Anyway, the straight cut gears put all or more of the force into eachother w/ less or little side loading, but I don't know if that makes them stronger? I'm not an engineer, so I'll shut up now..

You just need the one? I'll put it in a tiny box tomorrow and it's yours. You can send me a coupon for a beer Yep, measured w/ calipers in SAE...

I hope to be in that position some day, getting closer As for now I have to let the shop down the street do my computer diagnosing but the last run cost me less than 40 bucks

I think it's due to the more staight the gear is cut, the larger the contact area is from tooth to tooth. That should translate to less pressure on the gear across the contact patch. Right?

So could one take the V8 gearset out and have it heat treated a bit? I'm guessing not since they are most like HT'd already huh? So gforce is cutting lower angle heilicals and harder steel to make them stronger right?

That care looks SICK! Great color choice, and the motor looks clean. What kind of heads are those? I could go on and on, you have some detailed spec's listed? Welcome to the board!!! I noticed you have a short water pump, do you have any plans for how your going to mount the Alt?

Another option is placing a pulley on the front of the water pump and moving the alt a bit more in front of the engine, anyone done that? Pulley Dia suggestions? The smaller the better looking, the lager the better working right? Not finding much on this? I've seen a example in a catalog but not finding any front mounted pulley's for the water pump. I'll probably have to find something w/ just a hole in the center and drill the holes to fit the pump.

Welcome to the board, dont' have the answer to your questions but I'll be following this post. I'm fixing to tear into my WC T-5.

Thought I would post some pics of the two options I think are best w/ the short pump and the mount I picked up. Drivers Side...Sits pretty close to the headers, think this is an issue? If I go this route, I'll have to add some bracing to the bottom hole, shouldn't be an issue, I'm just abit worried heat. Passenger side I like a bit better, since the cyl head sits back a bit more on that side you get that much more clearance. Note the brace keeping the bracket from rotating, needs to be trimmed. I need to get longer standoffs, about another 1-1/8" should be just about perfect to center up the belt grooves. Should be cooler here as well as a shorter (cleaner) lead to the alt. Let me know what you guy's think. Again this is the snug type mount (Yeah right ) w/ the short style water pump. Does it look like there will be fitment issues w/ the strut towers or inside fenders? Hard for me to tell. Looked at some other pics of SBC's but didn't find any that were a top view of the clearance from VC to fender.

The hole in the ones i have are right at .965 ID, the thread od is 1.880. I only found two usable ones. The two others I have are egged out and not useable. They are yours if you need them...

use a higher grade as well, napa truck supply usually has a great selection.

Gold was the color of them, that and that they were KYB's is all I remember. I'll measure tonight and let you know. I have two small dia, and two large dia, and maybe two more in the attic? But I know one set was holding those gold kyb's in a Z strut.

To check you can measure the over all length of the solid lifter and the hydralic your going to use. Then check the depth of the sockets the push rods sit in, if they are the same then you should be very close. Whatever lenth push rod you determine w/ the solid lifter will work w/ the hydralic with the pre load set. Shouldn't be an issue.

Tony, don't order those yet, tell me what the dims are that you need! I just remebered I have a pair that were removed from struts w/ KYB (gold?) Struts in them. They could be just what you need. Sold the struts on ebay...

I have one, but havn't updated it in a while. Actually I'm almost afraid to see it all add up.

do you know what size the hole needs to be?

Nice pics, I don't know that I've seen anyone install their autometer's like that, I like it! Can you share how you did it?

Just got off the phone w/ Kevin at http://THEGEARBOX.ORG , (thanks Pete P)said I could swap out to the V8 gearset for $345, get the billit Key's for 72, and a rebuild kit if needed for another 124. Basically for about what I could find another trans, I could re-build this one so I think it's what I'm going to do, will delay me a bit but hopefully it won't take too long! I'll keep this thread as my build log. Changing the topic a bit.... He confirmed the Tag #177 was a w/c (which the link earlier in this thread suggested was from a Jeep?) along w/ the Timken bearing race on the front. So, now I get to learn how to rebuild a T5! Lemonade right?

Just got off the phone w/ Kevin, super helpfull guy! I'll start tearing into my box tonight and see what all's needed and place an order ASAP! Thanks Kevin and Pete for pointing me his way!!!

So any clue as to how long this WC V6 trans will hold up w/ a 11" clutch? It seems that this isn't the best solution but one that will get me rolling. I can save up and do a weekend swap when I find something better. Right now I am way more concerned about getting this car rolling. OR does anyone have a screaming deal on a T5? ANY T5 that will hold up better than the one I've got? I just want to put the engine in and drive!

I've got the 16", moves alot of air off the battery charger. Don't have a running car so I can't attest to the actual cooling abilities but it's cheap!