BillZ260

Very cool, do you have any pictues or measurments on how you put together that plate where the vents used to be? I have one in carbon fiber but I'm not sure about hte mounting set up I have. Love the guages! Nice and CLEAN

My question is why are you removing the heater? I know it gets cold in IL! Have you ever driven a car w/ no heat? I only had to do it once...

Cheap probably isnt' the best way to describe it...(My little bro is CHEAP! ) I'll spend the $$ if my percieved need/want is great enough. I try to make sure a big ticket item such as most tools, will get used and not just sit and collect dust. You know? -- EDIT -- I will try to keep the bargin post at hand a bit more often, I need to learn more about welding equipment so I don't get something I can't easily use. Quick FROOGLE search found the 180 for $502.00 w/ shipping. http://stores.channeladvisor.com/toolking/items/item.aspx?itemid=3466178

I got ya, I just wish welders re-sale dropped off significantly after sale so I could pick one like that Hobart 180 amp for like $200. What can I say...I'm cheap! I have been keeping my eyes open for one, and will grab one up the first time I see a deal. Plus I really don't have room right now. My 'shop' needs to be re-configured once the Z is running to fit two cars and all my other stuff. Will be a decent size undertaking....come to think, I might need a welder for that!

Yes, BUT... Did you see how 'awesome' it looks w/ the matching tow truck?

I'd like the first one, but it'll be hard to justify the $700 welder to make a $30 engine rack... I'll save up for it though, I've been wanting one for a while, but untill this car is complete, I really don't have room in my itsy garage....

If you are not going to use it, pull it completely appart, you can put it back together pretty easily. The piston inside is SUPER close tollerance fit, so the vacume it creates when you pull on it might make it seem like it won't come out, but it will. Hook it w/ a paper clip or something .

Neat! My wife is just getting into this stuff, she liked it alot! Did you create the line drawing of the Z? Or use it from another source? I'd like to see more.

Grumpy you are going to help me justify the welder! I have to 2x3 tube left over just waisting space, and a set of nice roller beaing 4" casters just sitting on the shelf...... Now what welder? Is hobart really the same as lincoln and miller?

I notice post count dropped again too! at one point I was over 2k, then we went to having only the technical posts count, and last week or so I was about 1300, now it's 800. Does this mean that the vast majority of my posts don't really count for much?

Once my trans is complete and I'm ready to mount all the clutch components, I will need to have the engine off the stand and sitting on something sturdy so I can have free access to the rear of the block w/ the flywheel and bellhousing on to take the required meaurments to install and adjust the clutch and HTOB. Does anyone have a diagram w/ measurments for a small frame I can sit this thing on while I do this? How have you all done it in the past? I don't really want to use an old tire, I'd like it to be sturdy (and cheap) I am thinking a simple steel frame, or maybe even using the wooden shipping crate (Since I dont' have a welder readily available) from my tool box as a base, it just needs to rest so I can fit the bell housing and what not on it. Eventually also using it to hold the engine when I bolt up the tranny to it for final install into the car. Other notes, what's the best way to keep the crank from rotating when torquing up the flywheel bolts and others? The last time I did this it was hanging from the cherry picker while a buddy kept the whole thing from flopping around. Don't really want to go that route this time. Thoughts?

did it work?

Take pics and list all the step you took, I think if we have a couple more pieces of info we can set this thread up as a sticky!

Not that, they are hardened sockets w/ helical 'teeth' that as you turn counter clockwise to loosen the bolt, they grip harder and harder till the bite is good enough to start loosening the offending nut/bolt, whatever. I bought a set from SEARS, they rock... You won't break that case! This weekend when I was tearing mine down, there is a big fat locater screw on the opposite side of the drain plugs that seemed to be cemented in, but I had to remobve to the the trans appart. It ended up taking a 2 foot cheater to break it loose! Good luck

My 260 has been.. Rewired, need to finish up once everything is in place. New Struts, springs, bushings New floorpans Sub frame connectors Fuel cell and (almost) all connections complete not sure how happy I am w/ it welded up cracks in front seam of doors Auto power bar installed (currently out) 355 chevy is complete ready to turn over T-5 is apart, waiting on ford racing "R" gear set and rebuild kit to come in and it will get put back together w/ Ram PP and clutch disk w/ Tilton master and HTOB. Drive shaft has been measured and I need to take the parts in to get it made. Toyota brakes in front, need to get new master, and bleed system. I have been working really hard on getting this thing going, right now the trans is keeping me from droping everything into the car.

Looking for anyone that might have this article on their HD, or a subscription to FORD MUSCLE. It's a tear-down / rebuild article on at G-Force T5. I can only get throught the tear down part and would like to see the 2nd half. Cost is 7 bucks for one month, which I'll gladly pay, just thought I'd see if anyone here had an account. If this is un-ethical, then let me know, kill the thread and I'll buy the article, and post my T5 tips trick on rebuilds once I'm done. It would probably help if I added the link... http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/12/T5Rebuild/index.php

Hey Ed, I know someone in Houston that has a nice red '87? 911 targa for sale. I think they want 10k for it, has like 130k miles. I'm sure it's very nice considering the people.

let us know how it works

Pulled my WC appart Sat. I'm not sure how free it supposed to move. I had to work it to get appart but not too much scoring and stuff in the rod itself. I'd say finish up the assembly and see how freely it shift's into Reverse. I'd think it's ok if it goes w/out too much trouble. I AM NOT AN EXPERT! Just tore my first trans apart this weekend...

Dave, thanks for link some of those look pretty nice! I'll have to see what's what on those low mounts when I get the block in the car. Still looking for a pully I could mount to the front of the water pump....

Cool find! I'd never fit

Looks like a freaking huge deal! Just my .02, even if the car is perfect, don't use that phrase 'near perfect' on a car you are seelling for $400. And no, you probably couldn't please this guy no matter what! Good luck.

depending on how much thread is sticking out from the case on the plug you can get a socket 'easy out' to grab ahold on the outside and it should come right out. You'll probably have to replace it though. I had to do this on the rearend plug.

Ive got one of John's batteries and the mounting bracket, fit's really nice.

Then FYI, the mount you have won't work where you have it now. You'll end up w/ a position more like I have right now than what you have.