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BillZ260

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Everything posted by BillZ260

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  2. So the 6 and the 8 WC T-5's differ as well? I heard back from the seller, he states that it was in the car when he bought it, I beleive him. I checked and the trans has ATF not gear oil, so it does appear to be a WC. I really want to drive this thing and I'm running out of budget. (If Budget means everything I don't spend on gas and mortgage) I can baby it till the engine is brokent in, after that, i can't promise how long it will last?
  3. Looking at the 'counter shaft bearing cup' now that I'm home, it's def a Timken bearing in there! But does that mean it's 100% positively a WC T-5? If so why the 10 spline input shaft. I'm calling summit tech to see what's available. Just got off the phone w/ Summit 'tech', said that the trans came in Asto vans from 85-91 behind the V6 w/a 1" 14 spline shaft, so if that's what it is from, 88 on behind V6's (from what I gather reading) it's a WC. Hm... Only clutches Ram has for the 14 spline are 9-1/8 and 11". So I could return the PP and Disk I have, and trade them in for the 11" set, which looks like there is plenty of room for those on my flywheel. Need some Trans experts opinions now I'm really lost. Should I get the 11" clutch set up or take this thing in to a tranny shop and get a 26 spline input shaft, which is stronger right? ??? HELP!
  4. did you end up getting what you needed? I ran across all 4 of my stock ones. You could possibly have the centers machined larger if needed to accomidate the strut shafts and get some spacers to esure a tight seat.
  5. I thought about that but they don't have a 10.5" disk, I think he said the largest disc was 9"-5/8 or something like that for the 14 spline shaft. I have not a clue as to if that would hold up? What do you all think? If it's an option I'll gladly jump on it, I even wondered about getting the input shaft changed to the 26 spline? http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/12/T5Rebuild/index.php I noticed something while looking at all these T5 write ups on line too, and I'll double check when I get home, but the 'counter shaft bearing cup' on this trans I have looks like the WC version, any resident T5 gurus? I am confus-ed~! Seems like the more I read, the more confused I get!
  6. Great shots man, thanks for sharing! I'll have to make it out some year, look fun!
  7. Yep the guy that bought it posted just recently about it, took his licence plate and used it for his Sig!
  8. Are there any T5's that are one step down from the TKO-500/600's? ($1800!!!) I don't think I need that much trans and I want something I can buy and use with ALL the parts I already have! I'm looking but not finding too much... Have 153 tooth flywheel - resurfaced $30 RAM - Pressure Plate NEW $150? Ram - 26 spline 10.5" clutch disk NEW $150? Tilton - Hydralic TO bearing and coupling for T5 NEW $420 Tilton - Master Cyl 3/4" NEW $55 Tilted chevy bell housing $Ebay Slip Yoke NEW $30 Lots of cash tied up in a trans I can not use.... UGH Keeping my eyes open! Now that I'm here I will get something that will work with these sub componenets and that will not wuss out behind my engine. I really would like to avoid dropping 2 grand on the box to do that though...
  9. Sheesh, tag states that the trans is .... AMC 1982 Jeep CJ 258 L6. I'm contacting ebay and possibly this guy? will see. T5 suggestions?
  10. Been making a LOT of progress the past couple of weeks, which as of about 5 min ago, came to a sreeching HALT! So today, nice weather, out in the garage - decided, hey, i'll install that Tilton Hyd Throw out bearing today! So I'm reading the instructions seeing what's what, grab my flex plate and clutch disk of the shelf. Open the disk box and go to slide it on the trans for 'fun' and.....it spins freely!!! WTF!? The spline on the cluth is 1.125 diameter (?) w/ 26 splines, like it's supposed to be, the splines on my input shaft is 1" in diameter and has 14? 14? 14? Yes 14 splines. I just learned from Summit teck that that happened to come behind 4cy S10's! Info on the Trans: I bought this trans on ebay well over a year ago from a 'service man', upgrading his camero to a t-56 supposedly. He gave me the correct flywheel and correct bell-housing, so I'm confused. He listed as a rebuild w/ 27K miles on it after w/ receipts and all that. I still have the paper work on the deal I guess I can attemp to get back w/ Ebay or the seller. Can any one here help w/ trans identification? So I have all the parts needed for the T-5, the TO bearing, clutch disk, flywheel, pressure plate, just bought a new Slip yolk as well (at least it fit). I don't know if I should... Buy a WC t-5 (should have done in the first place i guess) See about rebuilding w/ a g-force kit or similar if possible? Some other option I have no idea that exists? I'm new to the Manual trans sceen and I guess this is my "opportunity" to learn all about them Trying to keep things in perspective, we found out one of our dogs has diabetes this week, and he went blind in about 2 days flat. So, I guess it could be worse. I do have a buch of parts coming in to finish up my motor, it's almost ready to bolt in and fire, that's why i'm bummed about the trans mostly, not because it's not what I thought it was, but it's going to slow my process. Thanks guys, I trust you'll help me find my way through this. Bill.
  11. My early 74 has the bolt on fiberglass set... if that helps anyone search?
  12. Was Napolean Dynomite giving the commentary? That couldn't have been more boring and monotone. I mean, it's a freaking JET car he's talking about!
  13. There has to be a similar book for the L-block, look on amazon and or google for some titles. Basically you should be able to dis and re-assemble. A good book will make this "Monkey" work provided you can read Just take your time and be very patient. Let the shop do all the cleaning, prepping, machine work etc... Guys, any good L-Series Build Books out there?
  14. I guess i'll see how it' looks when it comes in Should be on it's way soon... Thanks again!
  15. Probably not a bad price but I think you could do most of that work easily by yourself. Also, I'm assuming you're talking about a smallblock chevy since you didn't mention it. Get yourself a book that covers teardown and reassembly like this one... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557880298/104-9942440-2532735?v=glance&n=283155 Tear that engine apart, give all the parts to the shop to clean, let them install the CAM bearings, new freeze plugs and the machine work. Get a decent torque wrench, take your time, and assemble the block yourself. I just finnished mine and it's not complicated, you just need to follow the book and if something doesn't seem right, fix it before you move on. Should save you some $$ and you'll have alot more insight to what's what concerning your car...oh, and it's fun!
  16. 80 Bucks ouch! Thanks though. Now that I know what the hardware looks like I can search a bit "Smarter" I'll definitly post whatever solution I come up w/ on this. Don't really like the chrome, but everthing is paintable eh?
  17. Deja, do you have their part number for that one? All i see on there is either billit or chrome. I want steel like that so I can paint it. I looked for that specific one but didn't find it. Thanks!
  18. The pics looked funny. Look at the two side shots and all the surrounding cars, looks close to what's behind it in both shots and far from what's in front of it in both shots. Just thought it was funny.
  19. I have the short water pump and am looking for a decent alt mount. I know everyone says get the long but I got a "deal" on a short alum pump and I'm living w/ it. I need an alt to help me visualize, working on it. Anyone do the short pump, low mount or CLEAN mount for the alternator? I think I'll be ok as long as it's not above the valve cover tops. GROSS.
  20. welcome, dont' remember my 260's vin but it was made in Jan 74 so it's probably a bit later, but still an early 74 chassis.
  21. Optical illusion or did they move the car in the two side shots? Weird.
  22. I might take you up on that! Do you have an engine hoist I can borrow? Basically I need to... Measure for drive shaft once the rear flange comes in from JTR (today???) Pull the bare block and trans Install Cluch components Bolt Complete engine/trans together find a starter and alt stick the engine in bolt up exhaust finish wiring START THIS B! I'm sure there are a couple of steps in there but I'm getting close. I'd like to have it running by the 4th of July. I'll be working the whole weekend (our SAP cutover weekend) and I'd like to have something fun to drive if I MUST work a 4 day weekend! eh?
  23. Congrats! Hopefully next summer I'll have a running Z so I can participate in the festivities!
  24. Time and money Going well, really just a few minor things to finish up and physically get the motor in the car.
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