BillZ260

NO... Geez! I hate that I understand what you are saying but can't put a "package" of components like that together myself. It all seems so experimental with all the parts available, I guess I am getting overwhelmed in the decision making process when it comes to making my choices for all these engine components. I am very confident in my ability to assemble the engine, but as far what to buy, man, it's just alot to take in. I want it to be right and not be swapping out this and that getting the "feel" i am looking for. (I know that's alot to ask) What I have available is a 1pc rear main 2 bolt block with PM rods and stk crank. Set of vortec heads that need a valve job, vortec performer (non airgap) intake, and that's about it. So I need to drop the stk internals, buy a stroker kit, get the block up to snuff and get the heads reworked. That cam seemed pretty mild, would the stock vortec valvetrain handle that lift? I know the heads are going to make a difference in the 435hp, but I am not looking for more than 400, actually i figured 300-350 would be plenty. I wish you could put your performance, budget, and other requirments into DD2000 and have it spit your parts list!!! Some one develope this software... The Guys and cars on this site set the bar so high, I want to be able to make you guys proud, and a little gealous, of what I put together. Thanks for the support.

To me, in my limited knowlege, the 2.3 Ford is still the best. Super aftermarket support due highly to the mini stock racers and dune buggy croud Lots of junkyard parts AND upgrades available Bullit proof, this little engine is a bit bulky but it sure is put together well. It's a truck motor. My neighbors got one sitting in his drive....but as I said before...no brass... 300 hp easily atainable in almost stock trim and an intercooler, built from scratch with all these parts avail, 500hp and pretty reliable as far as what I have read. Im sure you've see this stuff before but check these links.... http://www.modernperformanceinc.com/merkurproducts.htmlparts/machine work http://www.racerwalsh.com/more parts http://www.key-ideas.com/DavidGodfreyPage.htm this guy shares info, seemed pretty cool. http://www.motion-dynamics.net/products.aspmore parts And there is a CNC aluminum head available for like 1500-2500 depending on what you get. Can't remember the company but they are out of CA and do alot of buggy stuff. I will look around at home for their catalog, and I have some more links if you want...

Great pic! Looks like that is similar to what I want, delete grill, add big round running lights right in the middle...

where'd you get the ticker tape?

Do tell!

COOL! But, I don't think I've ever seen anyone "quote" themselves before..... Jimmy likes Elane!

Put the HL's on the outside and put a vent or turn signal on the inside, or vice versa...??? just a thought

Yep, from that angle, the car could use a chrome, low profile luggage rack, some wire spoke wheels and I picture it on a European moutain road.... I like it, although I would have to have the original z line put back over the rear tire.

Ive planned on using the vortec's from the beginning and that is the intake that I have. I didn't know those were put together in Mehico. HMMM. I have the stuff to build a motor but I guess I am lazy! Thanks for the suggestions DOS and Sleeper, any others???

i think we've all wondered what that would actually look like but this guy went ahead and did it anyway

do the 2.3 swap. That is what I wanted to put in my z but I was too chicken. Maybe for my second build...

At least it's sheltered, so where is this? Looks overseas somewhere

Settle DOWN mike! For your sake I hope it is somewhere overseas! But man, that is pretty sad.

You could also try to let the drive train break it free. Get'er rollin an put it in 3rd or 4th and see what happens.

I must say that I love your car! And I can't see enought pictures of it!! Congrats on the show, must have been cool to do

I have been stuck in the "what to build" rut. I want to put an engine together but don't want to really mess with the trips to the shop and all that. And I want it to eventually be super charged. I have been lookign at the PROCHARGERS. BUT I can't afford to do it all at once. SO, I am trying to put together a crate engine package that will pull hard and last a while for a decent price. This is what I am looking at... NAL-12486041 Chevrolet: 350, 330 HP/380 ft.-lbs. of torque, 350 H.O. crate engine $2,400 maybe less (more on that later) SPECS: Four-bolt main block, 9.1:1 compression ratio, dual pattern camshaft (.435 in. intake/.460 in. exhaust lift with 212 degrees intake/222 degrees exhaust duration at .050 in. lift), nodular cast iron crankshaft, powdered metal connecting rods, and cast iron 64cc Vortec cylinder heads. The finished product generates 330 horses at 5,000 rpm, and 380 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3,800 rpm. GPT-6282010VE Demon Carburetion Road Demon Jr., Universal, 625 CFM, 4-Barrel, Single Inlet, Silver $289 maybe less INFO: Max-Density rib-reinforced cast baseplates and metering blocks, vacuum secondary operation, concentric venturii, and float bowls with EZ-Safe sight glasses for safe float level adjustment. They also offer two-corner idle adjustability, a large transfer tube with dual-captured O-ring sealing, built-in power valve blowout protection, and vacuum ports. Every carb is wet-flow tested, baseline calibrated, and comes with a detailed tuning manual. MAA-4748201 Mallory Distributor, Unilite, Vacuum/Mechanical, Photo Optic Trigger, Iron Gear, Billet Aluminum $219 The parts that I HAVE are... the Vortec Edelbrock Performer Intake and a set of shorty headers w/ 2.5 dual exhaust going through 2 dynomax mufflers. I am not sure which coil to run and am haveing a hard time making decisions. I also thought about getting the base GM crate motor w/ 260 hp and 8.5 compression. I like the lower compression for the blower addition later on. What do you guy's think? I am pretty lost. I have a LOT of parts and stuff to build but at this point, I just want a (NEW) running engine. Funds are somwhat limited but I just got into a deal where I maybe able to get stuff at cost, but I am not really sure of the details. Will let you know as I learn more. HIT ME! I would really like to get my project rolling again.

um, er, HUH?

DWG looks better than the actual car, those rear lines don't match up at all. But I think I would drive one if it were like the dwg. Reminds me of the little Z3 hatch, those are so cool with the WIDE fenders and low. Is there a story behind this???

I learned on old bridgports with some endplay and you will need to have a really good feel for the machine. USE the table locks, and test cut lots of stuff to see what the play is for each plane. When you switch direction in either plane, lock that plane, reverst the direction of the hand feed handle, reset your zero and keep truckin. You always have to keep the slack in favor of the direction you are cutting on these older mills. (really any mill for that matter, good practice) You will get the hang of it and, well, other than going to a vo-tech and really learning, you will just have to get after it. Good score!

Drumroll..... And the lights???

Glad to post, just wish I would have done it sooner MIKE Vince, maybe the charger isn't putting enought juice to the starter? I don't have ANY of that stuff hooked up yet so I don't know for sure but I bet it is that there ins't enough juice getting to it. SOME ONE ELSE CHIME IN on this as I am NO expert. I just got the colors on these two harnesses hooked up right by some miracle!

They should see it if they are looking for wiring info in the correct forum. I am glad that you guys are able to use this stuff. I am SORRY that it took me so long to get it together.

Z Wiring Harness Main Color/Stripe Color ----> Main Color/Stripe Color Painless # Description Left Signal post White/Black ------------> Lt Blue 949 Left Rear Turn Left Signal post White/Black ------------> Yellow 926 Left Front Turn Right Signal post White/Red ------------> Blue 948 Right Rear Turn Right Signal post White/Red ------------> Green 926 Right Front Turn Signal Center Post Green ------------> Black 953 Flasher Head Light Power Red (heavy guage) ------------> Red/Black 925 HL 12v Head Light Power 2 Green ------------> Orange 959 HL 12v High Beam post Red/Yellow ------------> Light Green 908 High Beam Low Beam post Red/White ------------> Tan 909 Low Beam Dimmer center post White/Red ------------> Blue/Yellow 907 High Low switch Running Lights switch Green/White ------------> Brown 929 Tail Lights Running Lights switch Green/White ------------> Brown 927 Front Park Lights Running Lights switch Green/White ------------> Brown 930 Instrument Lights I know it's not a diagram but here are all the connections for the light functions of the combo switch. I dont' have my wipers hooked up because I havn't decided if I am going to use them or not yet. I also didn't include the ignition section because I lost my diagram and it was getting too dark to see very well. If you really need it I can reproduce it but Iwas very simple figuring out. Just take a meter and change the key position while trying all post combonations (a helper is good here). Write down what happens in each key positions and your done!. I hope this helps some of you guys. To try out your new connections hook your system up to a batt charger and set it on the LOWEST amperage as to not fry anything if your wires may be crossed . Then turn on your ign and play with all the swtiched ans see where you end up.

I agree with scottie, but I like it too so that's like two votes for green!

Umm YEAH! We weren't that extreme Reminds me of jackie chan, very cool stuff but I agree with vintage, those guys are going to be hurting a few years down the road.