BillZ260

You can't be ANY more intimidated than I was. I had NO clue. I fumbled through all the diagrams I could get my hands on, laid them all out on the garage floor and got to it. I grabbed a cheap $10 meter at home depot and a flood light and worked all weekend on it. Took me about 8-10 hours to test and figure out everything on the combo switch but I did get there and the sense of accomplishment when I hooked up the batter charger and my turn signals worked was AWESOME!

There should be NO nay sayers on this site. Caught of guard, maybe a bit but everyone here should cheer you on. If you can handle cutting up a new car, more power to ya, keep us informed of your 'mission'.

I have most of it written down but haven't put it into an electronic format to post. I dont' have a puter at home worth using so I do most everthing here at work. I will try to come up with at the very least a wire to wire list for you and do the diagram later.

What's this? Don't you make pretty ones? or are you setting us up for a comparo for your finned rails?

Way to remain calm! Some people freak like that attendant and usually end up making things worse. Too bad about the car, but it sounds like you have at least one back up

yep, for that money get something already broke in, with a dynosheet and a warrantee.

I saw that crate motor in the lates Dickey Scoggins catalog and was wondering the SAME THING. It comes comeplete with all accessories and everything. I want to say it was 15K but that seems a little bit short...

I have heard they were high, but wondered why. Guess I know now.

That is very interesting! I wish someone had some feed back on it though. cool non the less.

I have to say these little episodes wouldn't be as good if details were left out. Paint away Pollak

You can replace the pans and build the sub frame connectors for under 200 depending on how much steel you buy. I bought a 24 ft stick but you will only need about 14-15 feet of square tubing for the set of rails. I also bought a 4x8 sheet of 18 ga for my floors but needed way way less, so you should have enough for any patch work elsewhere. I paid about $85 delivered for the above material, it is probably close to twice that amount now but still under 200. Hope this helps.

Maybe SportZ could help out and have the mag run the tests and publish them. I am pretty sure everyone would be satisfied by the data they publish This is an interesting thread adn I want to see the test! Even if I am runnin too many cyls

Well, I have been messing with my door locks and window mechanisms trying to make them work 'better'. My driver side door would NOT lock when shut, so I pull the mech and cleaned and lubed it untill it worked in on the bench. So I put every thing back together just as I had pulled it, screw for screw... That seems to have been what the problem was. After putting it back together it wouldn't lock! I loosened the 3 screws to see if it was maybe tweeking the plate that the mech was mounted on. One by one I tightened the 3 screws and when the lower inside screw was tightened all the way it was blocking the latch mech! At some point the screws had been swaped, short for long. SO I pull them all out and put the short ones where they need to be and such. NOW IT WORKS GREAT. SO if your doors don't lock (WHEN CLOSED) check the length of all the mounting screws and check to see if they are causing a bind. Hope this helps someone!

GREAT INFO!!!

I am still too high from having my car in last quarters zine! Thanks again, great product.

TOLD YA, YOU WOULD FIGURE IT OUT! NOW, only 5400 posts to go....

How much is a wooden baseball bat at a garage sale, like $2.00? Tool is cool but man!

Tony, I have a set of stockers you are welcome to. Where are you?

It looks like you are on the right track. Make sure you don't get in a hurry, I usually get frustrated and what to jam it all together when stuff like this happens. Set aside everything and measure every OD and ID cyl by cyl. That is what I would do. If there are not tight clearences check the crank with no rods attached and check for clearance issues, and to get a feel. Check for burs on the rod ends and everything else. If you have done this 3 times before you know more than me. So just take your time and you'll find the problem. Let us know

This guy is either retarted or it is just all a joke. That was hilarious!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't think it matters as long at there is no interference. I think you can only do the passenger side one way thought. There is some interference with the fuel pump boss on teh block right? Anyway, it shouldn't matter, as long as you have the fat spacer on the drivers side.

A power wheels JEEP in the attic above the garage. When we have kids they will get a Hybrid of their own!

I totally AGREE WOT! I am seriously going to look into the new FORD ESCAPE Hybrid for my next vehicle. I have an explorer now and love the utility of it, but man it sux on gas. Leave the gas for my Z!

Your not going to even get close to hurting these companies. OIL IS HUGE! I work in the industry, not for an oil company. I see how they burn money needlessly and still make huge margins. Their ROI is so sick, they are making alot of money! Sure, their costs are big, but that is all mainly initial capital investments, once a well in flowing, so is the $$. Some wells producing over a million bb/day @ $40 a barrel is hard to imagine becase world wide there are hundres of wells. Point is, someone is going to buy the oil, with the world becoming more industrialized (china) the oil can be sold. Gas won't go below 1.50 ever again IMO. In the past 20 years inflation has effected everything but gas, it is due...

serious? Post some info on how, what, why, all that. Cool.