BillZ260

Do you have wheel spacers? If so I would measure from the od of the spacer to the od of the hub with som calipers to see if you are not off a bit on the hub, but this would shake going straigt. JM's theory sounds promising.

What do those run tim, couple of Ben's I bet.

Great, I saw them in summit, so they are worth it? Gussing they flow 10-20% better than the stock. Will see how it goes. But if i have to spend comparable money getting the heads I have rebuilt, then new heads from GM should be a good alternative right? Oh yeah, so the intake is the only diff? headers and all that the same? Thanks again.

DO IT and post pics. The rest of us are pansies and want to see an example before we cut. Or maybe that is just me

Ok, so I totally expect this tread to DIE! after what I thought was my last post. First of all, jbeech, I really appretiate your concern, is that what that was? And thanks for having NO confidnece in my observations. I was pointing out that if the guy that built the motor knew what he was doing, the "SEEMINGLY" little things probably shoudn't have been there. Simple as that, K? Also looking at the car the motor came out of, stuff just wasn't right. SleeperZ, thanks! The easy thing to do is drop the dough and take it home right? I just din't want to spend my engine money only to end up with alot of work. Dsommer, I was hoping to spend about 1000 on a complete engine running, but I think my expectations were too high. SO, I will build. UPDATE: I bought my motor this weekend. 73' 4 bolt block with 391 single hump heads. Long block only for 220 and it came with the engine stand! Couple of questions for you all. These heads any good? Casting # is 3917290, will double check that. Dunno if i should rebuild these or try to find some complete/rebuild heads that are better? Any aftermarket complete perf heads for $5-600? the pistons are flattops, with small valve releifs and have an H in the top, these Hyperutectics? Were those stock? The block is a truck block i think, though the guy said they pulled it from a 73 vette. V0718TJA is on the front id plate. Pulled one piston and the rod bearing didn't look too bad, will pull the rest and the crank to see what ALL the bearing surfaces look like. Thinking this will be a good Base for my project. I am trying to get a feel for the parts i have and what I might need to source. I am awaitng so of the books grumpyvette mentioned in another post. Will finish disassembly and read up. As far as budget goes now, dunno. Nothing exotic needed here. Would like between 250-300hp/pumpgas/drivable. If I am still being unreasonable let me know! Thanks brotherZ

Do you have a link to those power house heads? Price complete?

I soooo do not understand MSA! ... should have left it at that. Let's have a HybridZ event, can do it here in Tulsa, or even Hallett, good central local, make a weekend of it, have tech stuff, driving classes. We even have a Hooters.

So this guy stencils a Z on his block and somehow puts a traction bar on. It's not just RANK, it is weird. WHY ARE PEOPLE SO WEIRD! Someone offer him 2k for this car, looks fairly clean 7500 umm think not.

Do you have any examples? PICS

Just FYI 10mm (Diff in 245 and 255 tread) is .394" if you want to know right where the end of the tread will end up. .394/2=.197 so less than a 1/4 inch more outward than the current tire.

Uhhh, Yeah! So how did you come acrossit? Did they advert it or do you know someone? Man, with a lathe and a mill....I could make that fit my car. I want one, just so be able to put a nismo sticker on my car

Unless you have another nest I would do first things first and get what you need next to finish the chasis. Easier said than done though right? Remember those wheels you liked so much, not in my PHASE I budget, neither were the toyota brake calipers....getting my drift? But they did come at a price, I will be driving my Z with a metal interior for a while

I may be over worried but I want to be sure. I could use both, or is it going to be overkill? I ran my 3/8 alum line where the stockers were, through the tunnell and even through the stock mounts. The only difference is where the fule line stayed on the top of the under carage when going across the rear subframe crossmember, just behind the diff, Mine is UNDER The brake line, instead of OVER, like the stock was. nothing should hit it but I am trying to think worse case....

Like 1 to 1.5 million pounds

Yeah, but easy enough to remove. After reading that article, I guess the strip is a bit too "LIGHT DUTY" for your shoulder straps, I only assumed. I really have no clue to this stuff, it is all very new. I do want my car to be safe though. So do I need to add a bar? Why isn't there one std if they call it a SCCA bar? It looks like this... So do i need to add a TUBE below the Helmet restraint?

I have the std autopower scca bar that has like a 1" wide 16ga pc welded between the driver side veritcal pc and the cross bar, and it is at shoulder height.

Is anyone using a fuel cut off switch? If so, what set up? I am thinking a pressure drop that triggers cutting power to the pump. Anyone doing this? My thinking is a halfshaft bites it and it ends up cutting my fuel line. Searched, but didn't see anything. Thanks

Man, I feel like I am sitting at the looser table in high school at lunch! I remember my dad buying a 69 ford pick up 3/4 ton w/ a 390 for like 700 bucks. I got to drive part of the way home, was 14 or 15. Hit 70 in second gear, man I though that was the hottest thing going! My first FAST, but not quick, car was a 1980 malibu that i traded an 81 Z28 in on (MISTAKE) This car was purple, had a tunnell ram and two 650's and NO2, it got like 6mpg and was Horrible off the line. The guy that built it never got around to putting new gears in the rearend, had...2.56! YEP This thing was a bullit on the HWY's but didn't have the suspension for it, could literally smoke just about anying on the hwy. It would bobble all over the place and sometimes the over size tires would grab the fender wells. It was a redneck hot rod. So noting really exotic, but I will tell you, everyone that rode in THAT car with me (being all of 19) was scarred of it Yeah, I have read the safety thread!

what motor do you have? 4.0? I have a 94 explorer that was loosing power at hwy speeds, and it ended up beeing the EGR Vacume solinoid and the EGR Vacume sensor. Weird huh? My engine light was on too, hope that helps? It did die a couple of times, like yours, and if i floored the truck it would reset whatever problem it was having and full power would come back.

I like the post, keeps what is important in our heads. I would like to see some diagrams on where and where not to modify your chassis. I don't want a full cage in my car, but I think it could benifit from having more than strut tower braces and and autopower SCCA bar in it. So has anyone posted any structural mods that can be easily and inexpensivly added? I currenly have the Paraska style sub frame connectors and the above mentioned items. What else can be done to keep me SAFER in a front or rear end collistion. Also, the bumpers on these cars really will NOT make that much differnce in a collision. If you think so, then you are kidding yourself. They are a minimalist attempt at meeting the current safety standards of the time. my .02.

Man, that is a good deal, best of luck. I thought the later year 260's were all 2+2's, only 260 coupes were 74

that an 03 or 04? Guy at work here pulled 387 stock at the wheels, those cars are NUTS! What all work do you have done?

I kind of see our older Z's w/ SBC or SBF's as muscle cars, they were in the erra, just missed the size, weight and power. But we are working on that right fella's? Way to go Z. Maybe year one will start making parts for us

Can I say booger? I think this is my way of saying I am in, no more $'s.

I was dumb when I started pulling my car apart and threw all that precious stuff AWAY! Man I feel, well DUMB. THere is a guy on EBAY selling door kits only, but I don't know if they are the right stuff, do you? Well, I guess they are gone now. Anyway, can i buy just the pc's for the door or do I have to buy a whole new kit?