fl327

Lockjaw, youre scaring me, what you mean? is 7psi deadly from a turbo this big, cause man its huge!!! i think the lowest i can get it down to with this wg is 6psi. Im down to trade for the T04b, im actually getting a few hits for it, im not sure what i need right now though besides some nice wheels, 15x7 or so, mesh or centerlines or something. hmmm what else would i like for a car right about now, hard to think anyways the t04b is up for grabs, and id rather trade it for some stuff more than anything, figure it helps me with my car, and helps you with your car right?

im not sure of the year, but i know a couple guys that used the rx7 parking brake cable when they rear disc in their z cars, im not sure how it would work with drums though

yeah later this week im taking it to my buddies shop to get the exact specs on it, either way, this, 10psi through the npr, should hit prett good, if i can spin it with my fingers that easily, it should hit hard low to top end.

i gotta way bigger turbo for my car now.

i really despise my car being reffered to as a " 1st gen 300z" and i really hate it when 240sx owners call their car a 240.

cant wait to watch it, were going on opening night, quite a few z guys, silvia swapped cars, and various turbo cars of all shapes and sizes, if its anything like the last one, its gonna be complete chaos at the street races again, big fun.

ill look for the oil flange later today. wouldnt be in the market for a t04b would ja?

screw it, specs confirmed. its time to rock. i figure i can spend some money since i saved a bunch on the turbo, which i estimate to cost around 1200 or more. t04e garrett, full ball bearing, wheels still unknown, but whatever, i figure at the worst it will still be a major upgrade right? i think it will be a great upgrade now i think about, if you flick the wheel, it spins two or three times!!!! i cant even imagine what that would be like when my exhaust is making it spin, oh boy. getting parts now, looking for an adapter and a spacer for the turbo, looking into setting up the tial external wastegate, and a new downpipe configuration. im gonna run it at low boost with an egt and see how im doing down there, if anything ill be happy to replace the mystery turbo. did i forget to mention its polished and ceramic coated with an fittings?

yeah, ill try to get a photo up this afternoon, its a NICE turbo

a guy in my neighborhood just got busted street racing his third time, and is getting his second trip to the bar station to get his car checked out i am in the process of returning his car to stock, and fixing a few other problems he is having with the car. after were done, he never wants to race again, so he is giving me a gang of turbo parts. for partial payment, i am the new owner of a Garrett Ball Bearing T04e 4" inlet 2.25 outlet vband discharge band type flange compressor is polished turbine housing ceramic coated compressor is stamped 60, thats 60-1 right? turbine side is stamped .58 turbo is so new the overspray of ceramic coating is still clear inside of the vband flange. this turbo makes my t04b look a nissan t3, and makes my t3 look like, a baby baby snail. what will this work like on a stock turbo car? man this thing is amazing big, and shiny. im just wondering how bad it would kill the lowend in my car. i know this turbo look ridiculously way too huge for what im running, but i dont know for sure, what will this turbo work like on my engine, i know this question has been asked a million times, but i seriously have the turbo sitting on my lap right now, almost talking me!!! anyways it was sized for a honda 2.0 engine that was looking to break into 11s , i am wondering if that is a good thing in this case, since the exhaust side is kinda small. this turbo is pretty bad ass lookin, the wheel spins so easily i can almost blow on it to get it to spin. whats it look like, this is yet another area that makes no sense to me, turbo sizing logic and the compressor maps. i would like starting to make plans to install this sucker with the tial wastegate i am also the new owner. anyways i would love to hear from the more experienced and educated in the turbo field, and thanx.

id say go with the starion ic if you are only going to spend 500 in mods because for 500 youre not going to put out more than it can handle on a stock turbo setup. i would go with the IC, 2" pipe and couplers, and a mbc and a relay the fuel pump to the alternator, and bleed the wastegate with a T fitting, and leter rip.

on a carb v8 its very easy, you will see either a spacer plate under the carb with lines to it or you will see a bunch of fitting tapped to the manifold, if you see lines tapped into the manifold, BACK OFF, the guy is running a BIG BIG SHOT. also, some guys hide the solenoids in a stock v8 air cleaner to further throw you off, just keep looking for the lines, usually goldish in color. on fi motors, look for the lines near the throttle body, cheap kits usually plumbed right into the tb, and pretty easy to find, and the more expensive kits will be either plumbed into the intake with each runner, or in the fuel injectors (NOSsle) if he has the runner intake nitrous, dont do it ive seen newer maximas go low 14s at the track, with a good shot i can see a low 13 real easy, maybe a high 12, get some juice and lay it on em, youll win.

well,there you go, he only wants about double what i sold it for!

lotsa views, maybe it was this car they thought i was referring too? my old killer, the fl327, my first Z 8) i was the heavyweight import and domestic street racing king with this sucker right here, man it was fun. just didnt have the utility. 100 street kills, three years of terrorist activity, shattered trans and diff xmembers, sheared solid diff mounts, broken motor mounts, and one halfshaft. You really have to love the process, and sometimes the final product isnt what you really wanted- but you have to love getting to that point... http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sevenduececlassic/lst?.dir=/SCARABULA&.view=t http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sevenduececlassic/lst?.dir=/TPI/1972+240z+stuff&.src=ph&.view=

how you do that ther with that ther strut ber dont be scerrrred

i only want a lsd rear to drift and do doughnuts with, in a straight line i burn both tires no prob-i know its not the best reason, but hey im telling the truth

those kits are garbage!!!!!!!!!!!!!! we did some work on a turbo show car integra, straight rice machine it had a t04e/t03 drag kit on it for three years, and its so poorly tuned it can bearly hang with a stock GSR! every thing you can imagine jdm bride seats, the crazy jspec door panels, every strut brace imaginable black lights in the speaker box HKS galore in the engine bay dvd blah blah blah- had to replace his fpr, and i would touch the tuning on that car, it had those MAP bypass valves-complete crap if you ask me. ok he had those crazy doors, they are flimsier than crap if you open the door and let it hang in the air right----the air, not the wind, just the air from people talking and moving around---makes the door hinge assembly flex around, after time thats gonna take its toll on the assembly, and that lambo do' is gonna fall on the flo'

thats the one, and i love the sucker. install was really easy, but i did have to get one end of the ic, the drivers side of it tig welded and the outlet relocated so that it came straight out the side, i kept it 2.5 inch so maybe later ill go 2.5 off of it, for now i reduced it to 2.25. so far, so good, the ic works good and fits well. i also had to had to sawzall out alot of the drivers side radiator support to fit a 2.25 radius bend and a 3" pipe for the air intake-very tight fit, but i made it. i like cutting things with a sawzall, so i had a ball with this one. if you mount it a little more forward, you may be able to get away with not having the outlet modified, and you will look meaner with the ic mounted that forward, i wanted it to not be so noticeable, im trying to keep it a sleeper. mounts were stupid easy. two L brackets a chop saw, a drill, and four bolts-done. i used long allen headed bolts for all the mounts and put them in with the allen head facing the radiator, for safety. you will also need to do some cutting to the passenger side radiator support to clear the other inlet, since it slants up a bit-thats actually a small flow restriction, but not bad at all. i dont have a digital camera or i would have posted these photos a long time ago, sorry about that. good luck with the install, cant wait to see what you run with more boost youll be in 12s for sure.

oh cmon dale, dont take that wing off!

oh cmon man! jack that thing up and take a look at it, it could be a few things down there. u-joints diff mount mustach bar bushings loos bolts anywhere control arm bushings, loose strut bolts loose anything really check the rubber jack the car up by the diff, if the diff moves before the car moves, its got a pretty good amount of wear going on. everyone would like to have a limited slip rear, and the only ways ive seen to get it are cash, a biweekly visit to every junkyard in a 100 mile radius, and places like this. expect to pay abotu 500.00 for a 3.7 1000.00 for a quiafe and 800 for a nismo clutch type- and more for installing the clutch pack into your diff, the 3.7 clutch type is the one im looking for, and dont think ill ever find..... its pretty close to a bolt if you switch the rear cover, if not you have to buy a special brace, also have to either swap driveshaft flanges or swap pinion flanges, the halfshafts plug right in. not hard, bring a friend, or a tranny jack to get it back in, takes me 4.5 hours on the ground doing it, or 2 hours on the lift, it gets easier the more times you get down there, and ive already been down there enough............

dont worry about it, got LINELOCK, will travel.

brakes are broken, ill trade you for a stock setup so you can drive again do it.l

supra engine is more modern technology, cant really mess with that. L motor is side flow head, two valver, but yes, its blessed with a super strong block, crank, rods, and no plastic timing belt! i really think its the old tech stopping it from making outerspace horse like a 2jz can. i do know one guy actually, my man Hoover Chan currently runs a 400hp@14psi tuned on 91 octane, and can get more than 550-600 range with race fuel. rebello L31et with a electromotive billet crank and rods, 8.5 or so cr, crazy done up head, MOTEC, and a host of other one off gadgets gizmo and gear. Car runs leaner than me at idle, and frekin idles LOWER!!!!!! car could be driven daily it runs so clean, but looks nuts, thing has 15x12 rims out back with 335/35/15!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! car is no joke, i would love to see the car out and about more, but guy has a booming self business going on. btw-i think he has about 20-30k under the hood, and you need a super special geto pass to get those billet bottom end parts, $$$$$$$$crilla.

thats the funniest thing about selling cars, is when you see them come back up for sale with the next owners mods, its just funny. you dont even want to know how we got that car so low, one hint, no parts added

we didnt know that you were in Belgium and z's were rare over there, i personally like the ca18det over the sr20det, its a better built engine, internally, its a rb engine with the front two cylinders hacked off, while the sr20det, even if it is all alloy, is weaker internally. you will not have to strengthen the chassis for 300hp out of a four cylinder since it wont have a crazy amount of low end torque, but since you said rust, i would check the frame rails to see how intact they are, and if you can weld, i would re tack weld the frame rails to the floor, also the part of the frame where the tc rod meets the frame, and parts of the rear suspension, although that is the beefiest part of the car. good luck.