fl327

could be a bunch of things i can think of right now. im pretty sure that you have tranny fluid up to spec, right? pull the governer out and pop it back in, see if that does anything check the shifter cable and where it goe on the trans, may be loose, check the shifter cable and see that the little bracket is going where its supposed to be. make sure you havent overfilled the trans. im hoping for the best for you right now, this happened to me with a 700r4 and it was internal, first and reverse share the same clutch and it was shot. hope yours is one of the easy ones, youre the one who got me pumped to do a v8z many many years ago.

yeah but youre a ricer though.

lack of 02 makes you run rich, lean idle i would check the afm and the tps connections, but if they are off you generally run rich and or surge a whole lot.

i dont think the auto is costing you a full second.

my buddies honda civic coupe with a B16a, self ported head with a three angle valve job, civic type R cams, and some nutty 11:1 total cr with a LSD 4.7 Type R transmission runs 15.2@88mph, he was at the track with me- that guy shifts that thing at 9400 rpm with a vtec controller that makes it come on at 7k!, and we saw a stock civic coupe run a 16.0!!! he was pissed. hes more of a rotary guy than a honda guy, thats his excuse, but he looked like he was having a ball in that little car though, launching 5500 and powershifting second, we were all having a blast at the track, thats for sure. Another friend of mine runs a turbo non vtec 1.8 liter and runs 13.5! I lined up with him and he blew off a coupler after the 60 foot(1.9!), and got eliminated, thats the only thing that saved me from getting ran by that little civic!! fun little cars, if they were rwd id give em a shot for sure, but they arent, so i wont.

yeah i know, i wish the place had bacon though, as well as a few more things, but the food tastes fresher over there, and pretty cheap, except if you go with the 4x4 animal styles, i would like to try the well done fries though.

could you use the neapco adapter for the v8 u joint in the rear and then for the front one i dont know, possibly a L20b truck, since those trannies will work in a z car?

hip hop, the hibby, the hibby, to the hip hip hop and you dont stop!

yup. same motor thats run 15psi. gotta get my stock baselines down so i know its running right, dont boost power on something thats not running right.

they wont even look at you twice, except if you say animal style 11x11 like dude up there, hes nuts, i ate an animal style 4x4 once, and that was enuf.

well, right now im pretty happy about the results. went to the track with twenty minutes notice (sears point/infineon raceway) with all my tools (about 100lbs worth in a tool box and a backpack) in the back, a 3 ton Jack and jackstands, six pairs of pants, and a full tank of gas. ran to see how fast my daily driver really with all its daily driver stuff in it, and me, 6"3 230lbs. car is 75 280z with L28et, my guess is the car weighed in at around 3000lbs probs more. ran a j-pipe 7psi (reading from boost guage on a stock unmolested wg) 44psi fuel pressure, 4 gallons of 100 mixed with 8 gallons of 91) 300zxt turbo 240sx tb 3" straight pipe exhaust with stock DP car ran 14.9@ 90mph in 83 degree weather 60' was never better than 2.2 with 215/60/15 H rated yokohoma tires reaction time was at best .555 and worst was .892, no real launches just blipped the throttle and dropped the hammer out the gate, best shift point for me was 5800, at 7psi all i could hear was wastegate opening the whole way down the track. car has awesome launch characteristics, it just squats and goes, no wheel hop at all, ill try harder next time. my first run resulted in a 16.7 @ 77 , my throttle pedal got locked down under the carpet and i had to throw it in fifth from second, and i still beat the integra next to me!!!! that scared the crap out of me until i found out it was the carpet. i burned my clutch up something furious on that run and later on i found that in third my clutch slips alot, going from around 6 to 3500 on a hard 2-3 shift. i got five runs and ran the 14.9 twice, i got cocky and wrote 14.7 on the windshield and got myself eliminated for running another 14.9 and messing up the dialin, if i would have kept 14.9-15.0 i would have gotten close to winning that bracket dangit. i was three cars out from the glory.. car ran well for me and in the heads up races none of the three ricers that ran could get with me, it made me feel a lot faster than the car really was, so i cant complain. from doing the math i got 171 rwhp- which is a lot more at the crank, which is definitely something im happy about, these runs were all my baseline runs. car was showing no pain, driveline felt great, now its time to get some more juice out of it. next trip up ill have: line lock Npr IC and 2.5 IC piping off tb and 2.5 to 2.25 to 2.0 off the turbo, yes it will be goofy. HKS SSQV properly installed 11-12psi 225-45-14 BFG comp T/A Dr's jacked up fuel pressure MSD 6al-that throttle sticking coulda done me in, needum rev limiter. im leaving all the weight in the car though, this car is a daily driver and im gonna drive it down the 1320 just like i drive it to school, crammed full of crap with tons of tools and speakers and tuned just the way ill get coffee in it, like a real car. once the car gets faster than 14.5, which i think it will next time i go to the track, im gonna stop trying to make it any quicker, and im gonna finish the body work on the ride and install some more amps. i didnt prepare to run the car and just said WTF lets do it, and i suprised myself and found i really like this car, for the investment that i have in it and the stock efi and the flapper door, im extremely satisfied my work hooked me up like so. all this, and i get 20-22 mpg on high fuel pressure, and the highest my temp went up in the hot weather was 185!!!!!!!!!!! i know my times arent up in the stratosphere like some of the guys here, but i did this on a real slim budget, with a driveline that cost me less than 1k to drop in and drive to this point, and commute 70-100 miles a day in, aww yeeeeeeeahhhhhhhh..

if its a street car, i would go with a 280 regardless of weight penalty, they to me make a great daily driver, and they dont suffer from exhaust fumes in the cabin, even with worn out weatherstripping. plus the stock efi system makes turbo and any other efi swap a lot easier, there is less work involved, plus the weight issue becomes void i thinik if youre running a v8 or turn up teh boost.

new rubber bushings will make your car do things you never thought possible, as well as silence a lot of clunks and weird noises from yoru suspension. urethane is even better, that stuff will last longer than the car. i would say if you are going urethane, you better do teh whole car in it, mismatched bushing materials will wear out the weaker rubber ones, especially if they are old. biggest difference i felt was doing the steerign coupler with solid plastic, and mustache bar bushings, along with a nissan diff mount and g machine rear control arm bushings, rides good............................

i think 575 is a good price myself. shops do charge 75-90 in the bay area, and a good sized markup on the materials of course, they do have overhead to deal with and they have to pay the mechanic to do it on top of that, it is a luxury to have someone else work on your car IMO.

ford/chysler kit bolts right up, since L motors use same size filters as ford V8s. works great i run mine to a B and M tranny cooler, with the supplied high pressure line, works great, with the left over line i used it for fuel line, also works great for that too!!!! not sure if im getting the greatest cooling, but its better than no oil cooler right?

i wanted to put one in my old 71 corolla (p-nut) the j spec motor is a mean sob, way more aggresive fuel curve, and it has a stock egt to tell the ecu whats up!!!

the bumpers are a great first step. if you wanna go nuts, go fiberglass front end and hood lexan side and rear windows gut all the stock sound proofing take all the interior out take the dash out and run a small aluminum one (even though i love a z dash stuffed with autometers) passenger seat and all the brackets aluminum 3 gallon fuel cell a short exhaust out the side of the car aluminum radiator i bet theres more.

yeah, i can blow em both loose with a clutch dump, or when i turn the boost up, from a roll. i think there has been talk about this strange phenomenon before, but i think any Z running in good form should be able to lock em up in a straight line, my v8 z acutally would do a one legger sometimes, and a two legger when i got it on a flat road, difference was in the v8 it would smokem until i said stop, my turbo car will pick up and hook somewhere near the top end of first and bark second, the v8 car would smoke em through 2nd, and bark third with a nice few feet of smoky. ive practiced this many a moon. in both cars, i ran an open 3.55 R200.

hey its me Leonard. F))) the turn signals for now, you gotta get that car to rev past 2000

turbo z cars will blow both tires loose in a straight line, turbo motor in earlier body does it much easier.

just do this one, go to home depot with the couplers from your tb, and find a pvc that will fit it well on both sides, and roll...

people that diss zx's havent driven one, i used to feel the same way about 2+2 cars, until i drove my current runner, an 83 zxt 2+2 ttop with the digital dash (HELL YES DIGITSL DASH), oh man what a feeling. doing 85 mph completely stable with teh cruise and AC on, WHAT. actually having some cargo room in the car without feelign claustrophobic, NICE. good brakes, freaking nice brakes on these cars. i like the zx's now, i mean when i had a 240 i used to diss on 280s, but now i love the 280z and zx's, they have a ride quality i never could get out of the 240z-but my 240z was v8ed though

Quote: 1. What makes the Mustang GT a better car than the Camaro SS? its a CHEVY. ttops and a six speeded, all alloy engine, more cubes, 2. Which car has a better appearance? the mustange interior looks better, the mustang also is a little sleeker, i hate to admit. 3. Which car do you think is faster? SS, its got like 90 cubes over the 4.6, six gears, and a flat nasty revving powerband. 4. When you were a kid what was the car that you always wanted? SS/RS with hideaways, any of em... 5. If you had to buy one of these which one would it be and why? SS, cause i like to win! 6. Is there anything that you would change about the Camaro SS? the interior is crappy, the doors are hella long and low, the passenger side has this crazy bump on it by passengers knee, the console looks like a rental car, and the ttops are sometimes a pain in the butt to take on and off, even though i love em. i hate skip shift, and i would permenantly do away with the traction control. 7. Is there anything that you would change about the Mustang GT? trade it in for a supercharged new MUSTANG with the sc and the t56 8. Are you a Chevy fan or a Ford fan? CHEVY all day long, but i do like the 87-93 5.0s as long as its a convertible. 87-93 5.0 aftermarket is pretty cheap, but not as cheap as the dealership parts from ford motorsports, we have a guy at the dealership that gives us incredible pricing to boot. 9. Which car do you think started the “muscle car†era and why? 1964 GTO hands down. i wasnt around but my boss, and people from his era always talk about how much they wanted a GTO 64 when they were teens. 10. What makes the Camaro SS a better car than the Mustang GT ITS a CHEVY, and yes im biased.

i like the turbo swap a lot, for the price of an overdrive manual v8 tranny t56 used 1200-1500, I did the entire swap and have money left over. im working on a v8 swap right now------------------1965 MALIBU with a get this-----------------A STRAIGHT SIX/pg......im gonna use a tow truck 454 and th400 trucks towing equipment fried and the owner just gave ti up to the game......yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeahaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

my zxt brakes like a champ, only bad thing i would say is that the rears look like motorcycle brakes, but they stop GOOD.