fl327

if you can find RESONANCE brand MP3/CD player out where you are its my favorite. right now i run three 6x9s and a 10" bazooka sub off of it with no amp and its dumping hard in my car, RICE ROCKET HARD they go for around 80.00

did you check the ground at the top of the starter, and when you were doing trans work did you have to pull ANY grounds?

i think that the 1g 4wd turbo eclipses can be fast ass cars. i know a few in the 12s on bald street tires, and all the rice rocket gadget boxes bolt right up, every afc works straight up on them, my buddy runs 550cc injectors with an afc and runs mid 12s, but tranny work on thems is harsh....

oh shoot, i thought this was a turbo zxt or somethign ok, try to replace to the dist. then with a zx/maxima single pickup dist with the e12-80 module. that may do it, and check the timing.

if it was still popping when you disconnected tps, it might be the afm. problems associated with a L motor that wont rev past 2500 or so is usually the tps, and its the cheapest thing to go after first, i had that same problem on my zxt a while back and it was indeed the tps, it had a pop pop pop at or after 2.5k, pulled off the tps, and it would give me a little more rpm, put in a new tps-Problem solved. have you messed with timing, i know if i mess with mine too much, it will backfire and pop to no end. i would say go for the tps, go to your local junkyard and grab a few try that out, and remember you do have to adjust it, youre supposed to use a voltimeter, but i just adjust it on the fly i think its easier. remember to clean that tps connector on both ends until its squeaky clean. if its not that. i would check timing same time as tps. then check the afm, possibly replace it and see if it clears things up, that backfire and popping coming out of the intake is giving the afm some pain, thats for sure.

81 pinout slightly different, i believe afm is same for all years though. ive interchanged them with no neg results best bet is to get a matching: afm, harness dist ecu81 only diff is that it uses external CAS, which isnt bad either once you get it dialed in, i had one when i first started and it was fine, but converted later to internal for looks. to make it simpler and avoid errors to begin with i suggest getting everythign matching altogether. i would get a new fuel pump, the one from teh car has likely seen the worst the 80s had to offer. just about everythign efi specific is also turbo specific, and to be safe, dont interchange much until you get the car running, this is key. hope this helps. Len

on the autos, they have this piece that needs to get pressed out, there is actually some kind of spacer for the flexplate that needs to be removed. in its place, you will need a pilot bushing for a stick car. press taht in, and boom, clutch and all bolt right up. youll need a pedal...

same thing to an NA, bolts right up,zx tps and linkage will work if you use the spacer.

hey where do you get poly/solid mounts on the L series? never heard of them, but then again havent looked either. 20psi has to be ridiculous, if its like 8-12psi jump, and it has to be crazier, that things gonna RUN....

p90 requires a lot of shaving to up compression ratio enough to have NA punch, which also requires you to shim the cam towers and a couple other steps to ensure valve train geometry. p79 and n47 will bump up power if you dont do a cam or anything else, my move is to put an n42 head with a small backyard port job on it, i believe you will get a 9.8 or higher compression ratio with it and it will run pretty good, should bolt on too. if i were doing NA i would use f54 block with flattops and a n42 head and intake with modified L jetronic system.

more info on the ecu please., very interesting.

sounds like a thermostat hanging up, but yeah, your sender would let you know and it shouldnt even stick closed like until it wants to kick open, meaning it would have gone 180-210, not 110-210 right? i would clean up the sender regardless of what the cause was, and maybe test it. also, check your water pump pulley and its alignment, i had bad alignment once and overheated like that once too. run it with no therm for a spell and see what it does. i dont think you the fan wired backwards or anything like that, thats a rookie move. good luck, those 12's are knocking pretty hard in the back of my lil car, thanx man.

actually, i run an 81 motor with 83 harness, i still have the pickup on the crank pulley, a matching distributor ecu and harness and it should be well on its way.

dont take off the nitrous please. su's are good carbs period, if you maintain them and run a good air filter on em, but they dont like being rushed or forced in general, wheras a 4bbl, can be made to run plenty juicy juice really easily, depends on application i guess. a 4bbl nitro setup just seems easier to tune, i guess really much on the rich side, since it does have to make a 90 degree turn, vs. the su straight shots, anyways it depends on application, holley edelbrock parts are cheaper.

rule number one

the real trick to the L motor is to never take the head off, bolt em in,and force air down its throat in a major way, i promise you, youll never trip off a crossflow head again.

whasup? jump coil to battery on positive., no start try to jump one of the pins from key on power with a long wire to the positive to ignition switch pin. make sure that key on is working. ive bypassed that transistor more than once with a wire from the battery, to avoid being stranded. the one time this happened it was a loose/dirty pin from ign switch. good luck.

youre fine, 82 harness plugs right in, just eliminate the external CAS on 81 motor so you dont end up troubleshooting something that doesnt do anything in this setup, and remember there are no resistors inline to fire the injectors. let er rip.

first i got the flows, and then you hear the WOO WOO... thats just great, hey at least people are worrying about those stupid whistling tailpipes and not me. ok dictionary, define this. I done been beatin those on the under RAW, while i was off the hen and fresh roasted off a twizzler talkin bout "man your boy drive a slucket, aint no way your baby daddy can blow like this here and still represent like a true savelle" I had to tell her that coming short on my briggity is a pity cause there aint no suckas allowed in my city- A Sucka Free City and you finna catch a hot one the twizzler swisher was boostin mines when i was up in the room blastin those like a true soldier. now use those websites to decode what i just said, i dont think you can. S.F.C locals... shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....................................quiet.

thats silvia caliper (same as equivalent year 240sx) s13 with silvia rear rotor, larger than 240sx and even a little bigger than a z31 by a tiny tiny bit, but still BIGGER, on a ross c bracket thanx for posting that again mudge.

i think that the early non us spec 240 used the roadster five speed

thanx mudge. reports from owner say hes almost kissed steering wheel more than once. pity my brake system is so fresh, cause i have my choice of rotor and caliper, with the rear jspec ss lines that are RED baby.

i dont know if newer maximas have the same rear discs, go get some and show us.

just finished bolting up a set to a buddies car, work like a dream. sent mudge a photo to upload for reference. still have a bunch left. if you can them, siliva four lug rear disc and rotors bolt up with ross c's kit, like it aint 5#1t

im wondering, do you have alum or cast drums on your cars? mine would pit up, but everytime ive gone down there to pull a drum off one of my z s its only been fifteen minutes at the most to pull off. ive worked on american cars and had some great fun trying to pull of those cast suckers, ive had to use heat and a sawzall more than once, but nothing more than a rubber mallet with the aluminum drums. my car had cast and i put the aluminum ones one from my old car (had way more meat) when i did my drums, i pull mine off every couple months or so to spray clean them, the only thing i dont like about drums is that they are enclosed like they are, otherwise im down with them. i have almost everything to do the disc swap, three sets of calipers and eight sets of rotors, but dangit, i rebuilt the whole brake system six months ago and im not doing it again, once i do rear discs i know im gonna upgrade the front, so to stop that from happening and falling into the pit, im gonna keep mine as they are, semi metallic at all four corners, with my ALUMINUM drums, I need at least two per.(gots)