fl327

thats freakin hilarious. thanx.

are you putting this into a z? ive heard the 4.3 engines use sbc motor mounts.

so what are you gonna do fitz????

i like how stock your engine bay looks with the fuel rail and fpr i personally like the stock fuel rail, if its not a restriction, i say run it car looks pretty mean, performance sounds outrageous guage panel is pretty nice too plus deep dish rims, say word nice car man

cant see why not, dont the wrx people have them mounted on the ic? aftermarket ones let the pressure out pretty good, i dont think it matters, mines off the turbo and its been ok.

source an rb26dett and an rb25det trans, should be in the 4-5k range to skip wiring issues, i would go with a haltec or other standalone system 500hp can be done on the stock bottom end, not sure what stock turbos can put out. i would go with big single, not sure what size or anything. not sure how it fits, since the the v6 looks like it bearly fits in its own chassis. i would check out the rb forum, im sure at least one of those guys has a link to show you a rb in a 300zxtt

if the tranny is the only difference, i think hes got you. if its a road course, i think you got him

never was into the twin turbo setup, everything you buy is double sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with it. the rb into a zx gets done at lot in japan go for it, if you can tear down that motor and put it back together again, this should be a piece of cake for you, right?

e12-80 zx or maxima ignition module and distributor 84-89 300zx coil ngk wires

if its a link, its the one thats really soft.

it bolts right in, good idea to get the throwout bearing, clutch fork, and slave cylinder for a 2+2 z, its the same thign as the turbo stuff, same flywheel too. bolts in and you are rockin. not sure if it makes much difference though, nowadays they make some great clutches for two seaters that should hold. stuff has come a long way.

we need to have a phantom special bb for you! really love that car, thats cool man, we all want to see some heads up racing with the other ls1 powered texas z car. watch out though, hes got an auto!!!!!!!!!

probably sounds a little louder because he turned up boost a little bit? ive heard them recirculated on a z, its only audible in the car. recirculated ones are louder if you dont have a air filter on the afm, but thats not advised. was just riding around with the air filter pipe disconnected, i felt fast and furious.

you will be in third on any street with a speed limit of 35 doign 2000-2500 before you know it, but it will hold power very well. its 2003, you need overdrive. people are driving faster and faster nowadays-75-80mph seems to be the average speed on freeways aroudn me, and on San Francisco city streets, your average pedestrian in a 84 corolla is speeding at least 10mph over the limits-and so are the cops

its a soldered lead on the switch, check its voltage when the switch turns on and off, also check the fuse if you havent already, sometimes that solder just falls off, and if you put it back on and solder it up its ok. junkyards are full of the late switches, and the wiring is identical on the older switches. or just use a dummy lite and see if it lites up when you turn the light switch on.

whatcha mean a 1g isnt loud, the dsm guys dont even use aftermarket bov half the time, they just unplug that thing and let er rip, sounds pretty raw, maybe not as whistly as a hks or greddy, but dang man, they are pretty loud. im running recirculated now, will do hks ssqv later. also dont know a 1g will work with a afm system, it may stall out.

very interesting. thanx for the pn, need to replace some on the front and sounds good, how far do they stick out? hopefully i wont have to cut them i like the long stud look, probably get some of those long lug nuts for them anyway. thanx.

any of the sbcs you named can make 300hp in their sleep. 383-tons of power there, costs a pretty penny, lots of power there. 400-can be found cheap, and its a torque monster, most of them did come with 2bbl and rv type cams though. 350-most available and cheap, all shapes and sizes. very cheap 327-my favorite of the bunch, purely nostalgia, but heres one thing that seperates them from most of the others, steel crank and a forged bottom end stock, they come from the days Chevy didnt know any better but to use the forged stuff, pair that up with backyard ported 202/160 camel hump heads, and a nice cam, carb combo, some tuning, a 2000lb car, and 300hp is easy out of it, and the short stroke of that sucker is music to my ears. they rev slightly faster than a 350 with the stuff on it, but at the 300hp range i dont think there is much difference. cubes rule, if youre trying to go simple, i would either go with the 350 or the 327. im in love with the 327, its a nice number and it did me plenty fine, i did a ton of drag racing with my old 327z and had zero problems on the bottom end side of things, and very few that had to do with the engine itself. it all depends on the deal you get and what you can do yourself. you could always check the swap meets and see waht they got. you may end up with a 400 block, 350 or a 327, its a crapshoot, a 350 would be your best bet on availability, i know a least two i could give you that nobody wants, i dont think i will ever have a problem finding one. the 383 is going for bucks. just my thoughts, and i dont have a v8z anymore, so there.

i would like to assume the carb is ok for now, maybe take a vacum guage and see where youre at. pop off the dist. cap and check out the igniton module, and the advance weights, also check out the vacum advance. is this a new hei unit or a used one, i had one that ran fine the first couple hundred miles, then i started having all kinds of popping under load, and had to drive it just like you say. its worth checking out, and i would change that module with a autozone module, they are pretty cheap. also would look into an advance kit and an adjustable vacum advance, pretty cool stuff for those old v8 out there.

congrats, im going back to work pretty soon too, SARS killed my overseas job. I am getting my first "real" job in three years, im going to be installing and selling car audio!!! watch out for the loudest turbo z known to man, im talkin competition loud!!

15x6

randy, t4b or t4e? how much boost are you running now? curious, im working on putting a new turbo should be in at the end of summer, need to get my t3 kicks in now that i have fmic and the car dialed in pretty good, going to the track a few more times this summer.

back to clutches, zr8ed i feel your pain. just went to 11psi today, and clutch isnt holding for crap in third gear, too much load for the sucker im looking at exedy and act for solutions right now, ive heard that exedy makes act clutches, and act paints the pressure plate yellow.

cant find them online just found out that auto turbo ecu are green stick is black. ive been running auto box 83 for a long time just plugged in a black box from an 83zxt, but it isnt the original ecu so im not sure where it came from, it has junkyard paint marks on it also put on my adjustable actuator, running about 10psi on the street, and it spikes to around 12psi if i stab it on the freeway, felt pretty tough cant do it to much now, need to let the new ecu settle in with the air/fuel readings. would like to know if i have a true 83zxt ecu to see if i need to change timing settings or not. thanx.

what are your plugs set at? might be time to take the gaps down too. mine are at .039, the bottom of the factory setting may go lower than that once i raise boost.