Badler

The yen is pretty weak right now, so rhdjapan is somewhat affordable. I haven't personally used their head gaskets, but every other kameari part I have is great quality. http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-bead-type-metal-head-gasket-l6-2-0mm.html

Not my style, but more lumens to ya!

While we are all resurrecting a 9 year old thread, I have a brake question! I am sold on the AZC brakes, and now that there is a parking brake option for the rear, it seems like a no brainer (if you are like me have no family to support and enjoy going deep into debt to overbuild every component of your 240z that is). I also have my Watanabe type Rs, 16x9 -13 F 16x9.5 -19R which I LOVE and wouldn't trade for anything less than an OS Giken Dual Cam head 240hoke did a terrific write up of installing the FRONT brakes I am getting with the wheels I have, found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81733-azc-install-with-watanabes-and-arp-studs/ ...but he has a different set up on the rear. My question is this (I have searched and found no conclusive answers) what do I need to fit my REAR brakes (with parking brake caliper), with my rear wheels? The rear rotors and calipers are a bit thinner, so I hope nothing. Thanks!

Godzeerah, if I was running a car tech box (really just a box, nothing inside, you would be right, super rich would be the way to go. The HKS on the other hand is a brilliantly engineered piece (there has been a lot written on this site about it, and the airflow computer mapped). It pressurizes the floats under boost, so carbs jetted for the engine NA will run fine boosted (to at least 12 psi) Tony D once ran such a setup and got 17mpg in aggressive daily driving with 300 or so to the wheels, not too shabby (You do still have to rejet for altitude, ambient temp etc. and tony d did go ITBs in the end, but I just am in love with the idea, and sound, of blow through triples)

Just for the record, I'm very pleased with the TWM, nice fat runners and great looking/working linkage at an unbeatable price

This kit was available in the vendors forum earlier this year. Looking to get the bracket with or without the rotors, have my calipers. Will pay you full price what the vendor was charging.

I think the title says it all. I would also be willing to trade my L pipe plus some cash for a T type fitting. Let me know what you've got! Thanks!

If you like the double pipe look, I have a fujitsubo legalis r, brand new in box that I never installed (went a different direction) that I would be willing to part with.

ECU? We don't need no stinking ecu! The current, well running (but not pretty hole in the hood) setup is a demon blow through carb. It is getting triple mikuni 44s and an HKS type 1 more boost pressurized the floats and makes the mixture richer. Take THAT cartech

Here pictured is the spec card from the cam in the motor that will be going into my car. I have ridden around in the donor car, and it seems to run fine. However, the .480/.480 lift and .274/.274 cam profile seems to match that of a Schneider stage 2 NA cam as sold through MSA. I believe that the overlap on this cam is 54* and I know that less overlap on a turbo is better, I am just ignorant as to how much is acceptable, and the opinions out there seem to conflict. The MSA/Schneider Turbo Stage 1 has only 27*, but jeffp in another post says that he runs 54* and it works fine. I don't have a very free exhaust flow, just your standard turbo exhaust manifold to a T04E 60 to a 3in to a Monza tip. This car is for the street, but hope to run 15psi. Priority 1 is not blowing my motor, priority 2 is power. I know there is a lot of info and discussions on cams out there. What I am looking for are answers specific to my application. In short, should I run this head as is? Would I just be better off selling this N42 and getting a rebuilt stock P90 with a stock cam? If I go that far should I go ahead and get a stage 1 or 2 turbo cam with it? Thanks!

I was looking into replacing my radiator, and found this : http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113678-aluminum-radiator-install/ It may very well explain the issue you are having, especially if you are not using isolators.

If you are going to put a T5 in an S30, I would contact Powertrain Industries, they did a great job making me a custom driveshaft for a very reasonable price. It had the T5 yoke, the right length shaft, and even a Subaru flange to make my tranny/diff swap that much easier. You COULD get a t5 shaft and then try and get it shortened right, but why not get a nice, professionally made piece?

Hmm, not looking to trade, as I have a full dash cap waiting to go on, my old one is seriously messed up BTW. I just have to ask, and set myself up for low expectations... What is wrong with the dash cap in your opinion?

Aww man, you got a blue one? That was a rare color from the factory. I hope you know that you are duty bound to do a twin-turbocharged 3.1 L28 and every night after Midnight race black 911 Turbos at 200MPH on public highways. Start looking for an HKS Surge tank, an L28 crank a twin turbo exhaust manifold and go from there. You already have the right air dam. Is the paint as nice as it looks in the pics? or is there still a bit of rust, then body and then more paint to come? Sorry to say, I have no idea what might cause two radiator cracks in a row If you want to take a first step towards increasing performance, triple carbs and headers are not a bad way to start.

Yeah, but is it really worth $560? And 2 weeks is not bad, but I'll have mine standard ups tomorrow if I lived in Florida it would take a week though haha

I got my 1970 back when I was still a poor student. I managed to do a few interior upgrades, triple mikunis and a header, but not a ton of stuff, though it WAS daily drivable. Now I completed a full interior resto, have my big meaty tires on real Watanabes (I wasn't sure they would be worth more than double the price of a Rota, IMHO after fitting them, they really are) and flares. Coilovers, (cause cut away your fenders and leave stock ride height and it looks a bit silly) , urethane bushings. Swapping to my dream engine then finishing up the body work and perfect paint job. Once I got a job that made me some $$$ it all fell into place. I recomend getting that job and doing a big surge to finish your Z during the student loan grace period. 6 months is enough!!

Got a TWM at pierce manifolds for $100 less than on ebay, so yeah, I'm happy

So $4k is the price you would pay for the car delivered to a port that could ship it? I might know of a rust free, running 1972 240Z that could work, and could be delivered for that price to San Francisco. But you should be aware that it will probably cost at least $4K to ship the car from the port of San Francisco to Gdansk.

According to the Wizard of Z, Tony D, the Mikuni is shorter and raises the carbs further above the exhaust than other manifolds. From what I have read, Cannon is the best for low-end torque and daily drivers, mikuni for high revving race engines. The Harada DOES look really good, but I don't have 4-6 weeks to wait, anybody got one stateside? Considering getting a Kameari if I need to wait that long haha, anybody have an opinion on those?

Thanks, but I wasn't looking to spend $550 shipped (unless it was a mikuni) haha

My first choice would be a mikuni, but I would settle for an SK, TWM or similar. It CANT be a cannon as that is what I currently have and is simply too long. I would also be willing to TRADE my cannon with full linkage + cash from my side. Let me know what you have!

Yeah the wheels are a bit big (even if we can't figure out exactly how big), but try finding DOT tires for 16x9.5 (Thank god for BFG Sport Comp 2s) and you can appreciate why he may have gone that way.

The title says it pretty well, I stumbled across the right engine, and I just need the surge tank to make it all work. Let me know what you have got!

Free is even cheaper than I would have charged

I have them as well if you aren't already set