Jersey

Dragraced over the summer near 50 runs, bangin gears often on the street for the last 2 years, I take it out of the garage today for the first time in over 2 weeks, jumped on 3rd gear building around 18psi and WAMMO! Guess it's better to have happened now and not in the middle of summer. lol. O'well, guess it's time to pack it in for the winter, rip it all down and start the winter projects on it... and oh yeah, look for another T5 or something better

Just an opinion cronic, i would change out to a stronger PP if you're going to pull the trans. I think the most important factor on slippage, or lack of, is not the disk or the flywheel, it's the clamping force of the PP. Good luck.

Other than a heavy clutch pedal, the 240mm ACT HD PP and organic street disk i've been running for about 1.5 years with approx 30 runs down the strip and abused on the street from time to time, has and still hooks awesome. Just my experience. Good luck.

Looks awesome. I really need to start doing this next year. Limerock looks like a great track. Think it's going to be a suspension tuning winter

I'm listening

Just lucky i guess, for now I would never recommend anyone to run their Z as hard as i do without having it propery tuned and always running on the edge. Believe me, one or the other's going to happen soon - either i'll get an 11 second 1/4 or that stock T3 gonna to blow But i am willing to take that chance

Hopefully i will get it to the dyno before the end of the year 525. I really wouldn't consider the way i treat my Z safe in any way I built it, i can build it again

Wasn't me.

Nice job Ivan.

Hey Drax, or anyone else - have you tried that Alumiweld to fill in the indents after wacking off all the unnecessary mounts on an intake? I'm just about done shaving my '75 intake and i would like to fill these in just to make it look a little cleaner. I was going to try and mig with aluminum spool, just not sure how the cast intake would like it. Thanks and sorry, dont mean to hijack.

The little hat shaped item with the green tag is the AIC which is used to create a higher idle when you run the air conditioning. The part with the pink tag is an AAC (auxillary air control) valve that gets controlled by the VCM (vacuum control modulator) which allows for a high idle during cold startup. Niether of these are neccessary if you're not using AC or dont mind sitting in the car while it warms up for 5 minutes. If you're plating off the EGR, you can eliminate the VCM as well. You can also plug the POV (pop off valve) directly to the right of the AAC with a 1" pipe plug, just make sure you have a good boost gauge and know when to get your foot out of it. My major problem Good luck.

About 1yr and 30 track runs on my 240mm ACT HD PP and hybrid street disk with a 2+2 flywheel and still grabs excellent. Made the last 4 passes with BFG DR's not a hint of slippage @ 18psi. The pedal pressure did increased a bunch over stock but, i guess you get the good with the bad sometimes. It's specs are to hold 400' and I have no idea where my Z is HP or torque-wise but sure it's nowhere near 400'. Good luck.

Kick some @ss Ivan! Good luck.

Thanks for the props 525 j/k I really only keep it cranked to 18psi when i go to the track, which is pretty rare these days and then bump it back down to 15-16psi for the street. She's been holding up like a champ but i know it'll eventually disintigrate. Hopefully, it wont take out much after the T3 but if so, i guess it'll give me a project for the winter. God knows all of my 3 kids have been born in sept/oct! LOL. I'm just trying to push it into the 11's with the stock T3 and stock electronics. If and when i accomplish this, i will stop playing with fire and start the safe and smart build. I've never heard it done and someone here told me it would never happen so....

Thanks for that info Cody. I think we're going to do something within the month or so... so, i'll keep ya posted. Called G-force, they can do it, it's just going to be 2k which is a little more $ than he wanted spend. And the search continues....

I think the important things is to keep the fluid fresh, the boot clean and make sure it has a tight seal on the housing and pin. Once the inside bore gets a little contaminated, the seal will most likely blow soon after. I think a hydrolic TO bearing would be the way to go and just eliminate the slave and the second weak link, the pivot arm that i just blew through this past weekend. Just my opinions. Good luck!

So 2slo, you solder the wires directly to your AFM, HTS and TPS and eliminate the connectors completely? I'm surprised you don't damage the interanal components, or even de-solder them, when applying the heat of the iron to the terminals of these devices.

Looks like i'll be getting some of that dielectric grease myself. Thanks fo teh tip 525, cygn. Hopefully your fork is fine and it's something that doesn't need the trans to be pulled to be fixed.

I tried to see if i could sneak it out through the access hole but it just wont make it. I'm pretty sure you could cut the hole a little larger and do it but, it's really not that hard to yank the trans and it gives me a chance to check the disk for wear and give me an opportunity for a lightweight flywheel. I'm still not decided on that. Maybe never-sieze on that pivot point will reduce wear and i'm also going to try to build up the backside of that area on the arm a bit to re-enforce since it sounds like it may be an issue with a HD PP. Thanks for the feedback and info guys.

Thanks guys. Just really wanted to get a real low 12 or possible 11. Yeah Cygn, i'm going to use that fork as my excuse i guess! LOL.

Not so lucky on a T5. Need to yank it.

Read a few posts back of mine in this thread. Must have weakend it over time with the HD ACT PP and she finally went. Nice, huh?

Really? Funny, i never heard anyone else this happening too. I have heard of them cracking on the lip edges and bending but never having the pivot blow through the fork! Well, that makes me feel better since i guess i hit the quota Have a few lying around, just hoping i can get the bad one out and the new one through the hole without having to pull the trans. Here goes nottin...

I knew the pedal pressure increased a bit but, i think this is a little overboard! lol...

Figured you guys reading this thread would find this pic of what happened interesting...