cygnusx1

Right. It idles well between 12.5 and 13.5. Idle advance on my turbo motor works well at 25btdc.

Mike, to get rid of the drone at around 2000 rpms, you usually need to put a resonator towards the front of the exhaust system. Usually somewhere in the front floor pan area. But you already have the cat so you shouldn't be getting the infamous drone. I had my entire exhaust made up from the turbo to the rear muffler here locally for $300 out of stainless 2.5". I bought my stainless Magnaflow for $90. The guy also welded it on for me, welded on a hook for the hanger, and made an exhaust tip extension. The place is called "Gallon Measure" and makes custom exhausts for all the hot rodders around here. You might want to think ahead and have a future proof system made up from the cat back. It might not cost as much as you think. Although that muffler you linked to should work fine, you may still need to customize the exhaust it to make it fit perfectly.

It's only going to get worse. I can't wait until it turns into "The Road Warrior". Now THAT is going to be fun.

Well, I live in NY but my good friend, who I visit, lives in Boynton Beach. He is a HUGE Vette fanatic, drives one, and runs the website for one of the clubs down there. He has ridden in my turbo Z and gave me props when I broke loose third gear at 50mph with him in the car. Next time I come down, maybe for the convention, we can all get together.

Wind Tunnel Tested and all!!!

Excellent! Thanks.

Here is a datalog screenshot of a FOURTH gear pull. I held it nearly full throttle for about 6 seconds and just look at how steep the light blue RPM curve climbs up. I floored it at about 2200rpms and held it untill I was going stoopid fast for the road I was on, almost 4000rpm. It looks like I let off the throttle a bit and caused some BOV flutter at the top of the MAP curve (white). I didn't get surge in fourth. I changed my BOV vacuum/boost hose to a larger diameter to help the BOV get boost behind it...hopefully it continues to work. The math works out to about 48mph to 80mph in 5.8 seconds in 4th gear.

I have an Old Town canoe. It was given to someone who gave it to me. My dad and I did a restoration on it about 15 years ago but it didnt hold up well. I contacted Old Town about the boat using the serial number stamped in the keel. They had the original paperwork from when it was sold to a customer in Brooklyn, NY from Macy's in 1931. They even had the blueprints for the boat and could supply any part I needed. Amazing. They lost alot of their paperwork in fire but somehow our paperwork survived. The boat is behind my shed on a rack rotting away now and needs some TLC.... It's a BIG canoe. Looks like a fun trip you had. Someday I will visit Maine.

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/ I think I might subscribe to it for a year for $9. Z article: http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_108383/article.html

When you go to the tuning maps they are 3D graphs of the data points. Sometimes my data points drop towards the back of the graph as in the timing map for a turbo engine. I can't see those points very well because they are "over the hill", so to speak. Is there a way to rotate the whole graph to better view the surface? Megatune and MS-II

Megasquirt MS-II, 42# injectors, Wideband O2.

umm yessir I can as soon as I get home. The lowest setting was like 0.5ms the top was 6ms I think 40--100--200--300 kpa/s---MAP speed. 0.5--1.0--3.0--6.0 ms---PW Accel Something like that....I will screenshot it later to get the exacts. I will put them in the sticky for msq's and maps. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=774480#post774480

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0102/article.html

If I was considering a spacer that big I would see if I could have it welded or fastened to the wheel or hub somehow. I would not want a "free floating" spacer that big.

With the TOTALLY stock EFI and a RRFPR, I made an easy 265rwhp at 15psi intercooled and drove it for three years. It ran GREAT. There is nothing wrong with it as long as you stay on the safe side of detonation. I ran about 25-27 deg-btdc at idle to get the best results. Just keep it under 5500rpm at 15psi or else you run into leanness with the stock injectors. I ran the FP up to about 65psi at 15psi boost.

Here's a wiring tip!!! If you are using a heated wideband O2 sensor: 1) Power it up off the fuel pump relay. 2) Power it off the battery. 3) Put in a SPDT switch so that you can switch it to power from either source 1 or 2. Label the switch 1-RUN 2-CALIBRATE. This way you can power up the O2 sensor for periodic calibration without having to move wires and jumpers around. Calibration needs to be done with the engine OFF so you need to be able to power up the wideband without turning the key to RUN.

It really annoys me when I find a thread that dead ends...so I try to come back to my posts and post a solution. After a couple of days of tuning with the LC-1 WB O2 sensor, datalogging, and running the automatic analysis on the datalogs and VE tables, the car is running MUCH MUCH better. I set my AFR table to range from 14:1 to 12:1 in different load conditions and the datalogging and LC-1 made it happen. The tip in throttle issues are gone. Once the VE map was tuned well, I was able to run AE in full MAP mode, with a good low threshold of 25kpa/s and very very low AE pulswidths were needed to make the engine respond nicely to throttle inputs. Look for my .msq files in the sticky.

That looks like a good way to go when I change the cam this winter. I plan on doing a mild build on the lower and upper ends this winter. A cam change will probably be part of it. Thanks for the turbine and compressor advice. I mean I am definitely happy with the way it runs now, but if I am rebuilding the motor, I might as well better match the turbo to the motor. My current turbo is obviously flowing too much air at low revs. I thought about this over the weekend as a cheap, temporary fix. If I go to a bleed type boost controller I can make the boost curve a little less aggressive and keep it off the surge line at lower revs. The ball-spring type keeps the wastegate shut tight all the time while the bleed-type just changes the rate at which the wastegate opens...I think.

Wow now that's a steal! Very nice. How does it drive?

This is also a classic symptom of the L28ET connector syndrome. Take the TPS, AFM, and ECU connectors, unplug them, spray with contact cleaner, grease with dielectric or silicone grease and reassemble. You will be amazed. There are about 100 threads about this. Hope it works for you. If it does, keep going. Do the injectors, and all the grounds and sensors you can find. South Carolina + Old connectors = trouble. Welcome to HybridZ!

Growing up is fun...sure getting your A$$ powdered was nice but we have discovered better things by now...or have we? Happy Birthday!

I'm slightly on the other side of the fence on this one. I would rather buy a complete, running car with some bad paint and rough interior for $3000. Whenever you pick up a project that's half done, without a first hand history, it could become scary. Who knows what is under all that paint or inside that motor. It could be rebuilt, but by who, with what skills? I have seen rebuilt motors go bang in ten minutes. Be very careful. Although, I would add up the ebay value of all the parts you listed above and see if you might be able to offer less and turn a nice profit to pay for a different Z. OTOH, If you can prove that the shell is very solid, you can keep that and start over with the rest of it.

I cant wait to see that in my home theater! It looks like a great movie. Going to have to send the kid to Grandma's

Backflush them. Power them up and pump cleaner through them backwards.

Thanks, A local machine shop with Z experience might be the better route at that price. At least I would have recourse should there be problems with the quality. Thanks Mike. This winter, I guess the head comes off and goes to a machinist, and I will rebuild the bottom end with some forged pistons myself to save some dough. Thanks for the feedback guys, I am going to bookmark his store for the future purchase of less risky items. Although it's an excellent deal, I just dont feel comfortable with such an important piece coming from that far away, with little or no recourse should there be a minor problem.