cygnusx1

Yeah, I never heard any gasket leak that sounded like that. Usually it's more like a steam train or a knock sound. This was clearly a squeal.

I corrected my msq file to reflect your IAC. I had turned it off because you didnt list it when I tweaked your msq. So re-download my my msq from above and replace the one from yesterday...if you are using it. You really need to sort the spark and timing before you think about getting the engine to idle.

I have sound....nice mullet too!

Wow, it's like I am looking at photos of my own Z from 1995. I had the same wheels, the same color, the same bumpers, the same antenna, the same spoiler....it's an IDENTICAL twin. Do your center caps tick after you brake? Mine always made a ticking sound from expansion contraction on those wheels. Very nice paint by the way.

My idea of a REAL tune is to use an RPM locking dyno, lock in every 1000 RPM's and go through about 5-10 load points at each rpm while dialing in the AFR's, timing, dwell...etc. for max safe power and torque at every point. Then road test and repeat if needed. Maybe I am an idealist because I have never been to a dyno with a tuneable car. If I was a crew chief, I would expect no less.

Hey, I'll never be able to bid what they want but since I'm in NY, if it's within an hour or two of me, I will gladly test drive it for someone interested in bidding... Of course to properly test drive it the client should fund a track day at Limerock or Watkins for me...

Again, I'll be totally honest and say at least they arent teddy bear wheels. BTW, the lip on the sportmax wheels looks like chrome in some lighting...since you like chrome.

I believe it should behave the same in the car as it does on the stim. Lower your stim board to 200-300 rpms and thats what the lights should look like in the car during cranking. It should also indicate CRANKING at eh bottom of the Megatune screen. I am assuming there is no cold start injector, and you are using the stock bosch cold air bypass valve for fast idle.

Do you have a stim board? If you do you could look at the flashing LED and compare it to when the engine is flashing it. You should definitely see it flicker in the LED from the spark or injection signal.

And a solid spark signal to the MS-II box. No TPS? Make sure you calibrate the throttle if you do. Also...try this after reviewing it carefully. Adjust the Required Fuel number in the injection setup menu while you try cranking until it starts and idles fine. raise and lower the required fuel to maximize your idle vacuum to the lowest you can get it. Try this CygnusX1.zip

I am looking at it....list your sensors. O2, air temp, water temp, AFM or MAP...injectors...? Give me as much info as you can. I will try to get it started. Meanwhile check your ignition timing with a light just to confirm you have spark and the LED on the MS-II flashes consistently with spark timing.

What firmware?

I just placed a bid and was instantly outbid. Oh well. I owned it for a nanosecond. At least I saved all the photos to my hard drive.

Wlecome to HybridZ. It may be time to search for someone parting out a car here IF you really need the prop valve. Lots of people do that here. I am 99% sure that the proportioning valve proportions front to back pressure not left to right so look elsewhere for the pulling to the left problem. Try checking the alignment, suspension links and bushings. Check all the lines for kinks and replace the rubber lines. Try a different mechanic too. Brakes on a 1980ZX are not rocket science and should be pretty easy to get right for a seasoned mechanic. Seriously, take it to someone else. Also are you sure he used the CORRECT master cylinder. Maybe he used an earlier one where the lines front to back are reversed I think. <--not sure about this but research should clarify.

105lb 5'2'' blonde Paper or Plastic?

Ugh...IMHO....yuck. Sorry for my brutal honesty. Sportmax all the way.

Freaking awesome! Elvis on a minibike...and it's big-phil no less....ROFL.

OK I think I got it. I tightened down the bolts under the intake manifold and the last one, the easiest one near the firewall was pretty loose. I also checked the turbo flange bolts and the intake port blocking plates I made. I wiggled the wastegate to make sure the puck was seated and started the engine. The noise was no longer there. I let it warm up and reved it pretty hard a few times and I can barely hear a tiny faint sound. So basically, what sounded like a squeaky metal part, I think, ended up being a leaky exhaust manifold gasket. I cant drive it tonight because the roads are a mess from all the rain we had. Hopefully, the gasket makes it through the Summer and I will rebuild the whole motor over the Winter.

You know, heavy85, you were very smart to ask us instead of just shipping them. Something told you it was just not right, and that was your brain working. Sometimes we forget to listen to our brains, you didn't. The best advice we can give you back is to ask the proper shipping authorities who are educated in the matter. -Dave

I would not knowingly ever put someone elses life in danger. And policy is policy. If it's illegal, don't ship it or ship it legally with the proper submissions. I am sure there is a way to ship them legally. Do some more research. OTOH, not trying to make light of the shipping matter but, don't most of us drive around with a loaded air bag in front and maybe even besides us every day?

What's the consensus? Does it sound like an air leak or a mechanical squeak? I can't seem to pinpoint this. Knowing the difference would make attacking the problem different. Maybe I will put my foot on the tailpipe to see if exhaust pressure will make it squeal. Although my gut feeling is still either a wastegate leak or intake leak.... I stood on the otherside of the motor and the noise is definitely coming from the manifold side towards the middle rear of the engine.

Very nice. You need a new cameraman.

I hope that's not it. I want to finish off the Summer driving the Z. It only squeaks under particular load conditions. You can hear from the video as the MAP approaches atmosphere it squeaks. I need to do some more test driving and I will pull the pipes off the turbo, spin it by hand and feel for play in the shaft. If that's not it, I guess I will start removing things one at a time until I see something strange. I also thought it might be a loose injector seal passing air but that wasn't it either. Miffed!!!

Actually, it's delivering exhaust to one side of the turbine wheel on both edges and the gasses flow through the turbine blades (up towards the sky, in that photo) to get to the exit. That would work fine with split dual exhaust manifold

Wow what a nice pair you have.... I like both of those cars vey much. Give us details on both of them. Welcome to the club. -Dave