cygnusx1

Ever since my MS-II install, the car has been smoking more oil. Mostly I notice it under high vacuum, idle, downhills...typical of valve guide/seal leakage. I am not the least bit surprised because it has 130K miles on it. My question is WHY did it get much worse after installing the MS-II and reworking some of the breathing apparatus of the motor? Here is what I changed: -No more factory EFI -Valve cover is now open to atmosphere through a small K&N filter. -Eliminated EGR valve and EGR. -Eliminated factory IAC or thing on the intake manifold. -Eliminated all ports on the intake top. -Injectors/Fuel Rail/Fuel injection system. Here is what I did not change: -Block vent still connected under the intake to the PCV valve. -Engine still idles at 19in of vacuum. Could the fact that the crankcase being not under vacuum anymore allow more oil into the valve guides? Can I just connect the valve cover vent to the intake manifold to re-create the vacuum in the block it once had? I was considering using a slash tube in the downpipe for vacuum generation under load but what about NOT under load like going down hills under full vacuum? Now I'm starting to sould like Baaaastaad525....remember his posts?

Except Panasports don't go 8" wide for our cars....too bad. Very nice wheels.

I use an ACT 6-puck unsprung disc and it chatters even on the stock flywheel. I am sure it's going to be worse with a light flywheel. I am hoping I can live with it or I will switch to either a 6-puck sprung or a solid sprung disc.

I just bought a Fidanza flywheel from this website and it came in one day! I also notice that they have tons of cool stuff for our Z's. Check out their engine kit. http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html

Holy smokes! I got the flywheel already! That was the fastest free shipping I have ever received. Dragonfly, thanks for the advice. I will use a caliper and do the math to see of the bolt length adds up. If they are long, I will probably grind them, chase them, and locktite them. Alternatively, I will get some high grade bolts from McMaster.

I wouldnt even know where to start with this...bump. Based on my recent experience, reload the Firmware again.

I ran a 6 hour gas go-kart endurance race on a half size road course a couple of years ago. Our team had four drivers and we did 25 minute stints. We placed fourth out of about 20 cars and our drive chain broke about two hours into it. It was my first time but boy did I learn alot throughout the 6 hours. We got beat by a girls team that took third. It was fun getting grilled by them after the race though They were alot lighter so we couldn't pass them on the straights. Knocking on their rear bumper in the curves was fun I was really sore the next day....from the race.

I doubt that would be an issue as long as all the bolts are from the same batch. Aluminum rivets would be lighter and easier to install.

There is a nice silver TT for sale on the side of a road near here. I drive past it every day....so tempting. It looks pretty heavily modified too. I think the sign says $9K.

I dont want to get political but it's just a sign of the times. Low cost, low support, high expectations. Like the big automakers squeezing their suppliers every year to lower the cost of goods...eventually it fails. We can just hope it doesn't fail on our clock. I think the wheels will still look fine without the rivets. I was actually thinking of removing mine so that I could paint the rivet-rim to match the wheel center color.

$99 per wheel shipped for 16x8. You can't expect them to stand behind the product. I understand that it would take a loooong time to tap and bolt them by hand. Maybe there is another way. Self tapping screws, Alloy rivets, Rubber plugs? or as Jon says, leave 'em full of holes. It's still a good wheel.

OK Clive, my Z is running again....I'm twiddling my thumbs waiting to drive an LS1 Z. You owe me some seat time! Let me know when you get back into town with the EvilZ. Looking very nice.

OK got it. Just have to click on the left side and pick a color and a function. Very cool. Thanks.

4/76 280Z, Bought in 1989 in Manhattan for $3500 with 69K miles in factory condition nearly mint. Daily driver year round until 1992. Money has been pouring into it since about 1992 when I got a job out of college and made it into a second car.

Well, since I am going to be installing Austin Hokes old Z32 5-speed, I figured it was a good time to upgrade the flywheel. I do heel and toe alot when I drive and really appreciate a fast throttle response. The reason I am posting is that I think I got a good deal. It should be here in a few days, and then I need to wait for Austin Hoke's transmission. $319 Shipped at http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/fidanza_nissan.html

Tap and bolt. I say.

I guess Ill put the slicks on the Panasports then... still, for the money they are nice and you can replace the rivets with stainless button head allens it you have the patience. Thanks for the heads up.

Hmm Matt, I opened the files in excel and the AFR's did log in MT. It's just MegalogViewer that is not setup right....lemme try again...I will post the Datalog anyhow. After the MLV update, I am getting the following ERROR message from MLV. "Error Calculating AFR(WBO2) - Formula: ([O2]*2+10) produced an error.,...........Further Occurances of this error will be supressed." datalog200706180034.zip

For some reason when I run datalogging, my O2 Sensor logs a flatline. It's an Innovate LC-1 unit and Megasquirt is configured to read it and it displays mixtures fine on the Laptop and the Megaview...it's just not datalogging it properly? I tried picking the appropriate sensor in Megalog Viewer but all I get is a flatline at the top of the graph.

Thanks! Sounds like a plan. I will start working on the filter right away.

I got the ECU back from DIY and it booted right up on the bench and I loaded in the msq and the sensor data and the Z runs fine again. I will look into a power stabilizer for the MS-II. What do you recommend? Specs? By the way I have a dedicated 10g wire from a new 800cca Optima Battery feeding the MS-II and all the EFI, FAN RELAY, COIL, FAST IDLE, DIST, MEGAVIEW, FUEL PUMP RELAY....I would think that the battery acts as a stabilizer. Main Power connects on the lower right terminal direct from the battery.

Well I am not worried about it too much but for proper combustion it should be at the right temperature. If it was the stock FI system, it would run rich when it was cold. You think the oil cooler is pulling down the water temp? I will try the cardboard trick. If that works then I'll start thinking about some sort of front end aero ducting like the Wind Tunnel testing showed.

OK here is a strange problem that my Z has had for a while. It runs cold. The dash gauge peaks at dead center and stays there if I drive the car hard or semi-spirited. As long as I return to normal speed limit driving, it runs about 1/3 on the gauge. Megasquirt, and the Nissan head temp sensor, comfirm the dash gauge reading. It hangs between 150-160F if I drive it casually. I already changed the thremostat (180F rated) and that made no difference. The temperature adjustable e-fan only comes on when the needle goes past center, about 195F, and goes off at about 180F or so. When I cruise 40-50mph and even 60-70 on the highway with light throttle, it runs right back down to 150-160F. My front is basically stock (no ducting) with the urethane air-dam, Intercooler-oil cooler-AC Condenser-Radiator, all stacked sandwich style in the nose. The waterpump is new. Any ideas what could be wrong? EDIT: you can actually see the needle a little in the sig pic. It's running cold there too.

May I bring my Z, I mean Zed?

Yesterday a friend of mine stopped by with his silver/black P car. 2007 Cabriot, 6-speed, non-S. He let me take it out for lunch on a nice little cruise. I really like the torque of the motor and the sound is just beautiful. It was nice cruising around with the top down too. The handling is pretty precise but not as crisp as I would have thought. The throttle response is nice for rev matching and it pulls pretty hard from low RPMs but it didn't have that g-force you feel in your face. It's rated at 325hp (flywheel) 275 ft-lbs, and weighs about 3300 pounds. Nice car that is docile enough to be a daily driver and enough performance to keep you moderately thrilled. I may be spoiled by the WRX and the Z, both of which could stay with it or beat it with a trunk/hatch full of cash. One thing that was a bit odd was that my neighbor called. They NEVER call. They asked if we bought a Porsche because they saw it in the driveway. Fooking Hillarious isn't it. LOL. Sometimes, it's all about image isn't it?