cygnusx1

I think we can deduce what the splash pan would do from the data. Thanks.

Was the factory splash pan tested/used in any combination? There has been alot of talk about this pan over the years.

This one has been posted before butit fits the thread. I took two photos of the car against the outside of my garage. I manually stitched them in Photoshop. Blacked out all the background, added a water reflection effect with a Photoshop Plugin. It took me about 4 hours if I remember correctly. I need to do another one with the new Sportmax wheels and the 240Z bumpers.

Interesting thread. I use Hagerty and they claim to insure Agreed Value. I would recieve FULL Agreed Value. It is limited useage but not extremely strict for about $120/year for agreed value of $9000. You must have a clean record, a daily driver, and locked garage. Not sure about the age thing.

This is how I read to wire the banks. Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4 1-2-1-2-1-2 Bank That puts 1,2,3 on Bank 1 and 4,5,6 on Bank 2. This way the banks alternate after each fire event.

After spending some time at the MS forums, I think it makes sense for me to run Simultaneous-3 squirts. This will give my injection a nice "resolution" for throttle response. The only pitfall is that the idle pulsewidth might be down around 1.7ms with the 440cc injectors, which is pushing the lower limit of tuneability. By "resolution" I mean that the time between reaction of the throttle plate to the next squirt is small with a high number of squirts/revolution. This theoretically is better for throtle response. Being more of a road-course type of driver, throttle response is important to me for rev matching, and heel & toe. In the case that I may run alternating, I am using both injector banks and will wire cylinders 1,2,3 to Bank1 and 4,5,6 to Bank 2.

Nice work. I bought mine prebuilt cause I have a newborn. 6 months ago I would have done what you did. Go into Megatune and upload a map for the O2 sensor by picking it from their sensor list. Of course this is after you setup the configurator software. This might fix your O2 Stim calibration unless you put the wrong pot on it.

I heard from a veteran autocrosser that the BF Goodrich T/A K/D was a great tire. I recently put them on my Z for the street and really like them so far. I can't comment on their trackworthyness yet. Just going by what an autocrosser told me.

Was this correct? "Most users ever online was 735, 4 Minutes Ago at 03:02 AM." Just checked this and we just broke a record! I feel honored to have been a part of it.

...Microtech...

Well, I assume the link box and wiring is in decent shape before you do this. Of course if the box is crap and the connections are green, you have deeper problems. I should have put in a disclaimer....nah. Survival of the fattest.

I was thinking of upgrading the fusible links to Maxi-Fuses. I have seen the upgrades that replace the two sets of links with a single fuse box and some rewiring. However, this might be a simpler, solution. Take four of these: (inline maxi-fuse holders) http://cgi.ebay.com/8-Gauge-MAXI-Fuse-Holder-W-Weather-Cap-50-AMP-Fuse_W0QQitemZ180114022464QQihZ008QQcategoryZ50551QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Add female spade conectors to them and plug them in where the fusible links go, insert appropriate Maxi Fuse and reinstall original white plastic covers. I am not sure if there is enough clearance, but I might try it. It seems quick, cheap and easy to do. -Dave

Prior to me owning it, my Z was serviced exclusively by Bob Sharps dealership. The owners manual is in a Bob Sharp plastic sleeve. My car must be worth less then the plastic sleeve.

Yuck. Not for me. There are other chicks with mattresses on their backs that are better picks. Her's just happens to be stuffed with monay!

Congrats! My first, Nicholas, is four months old next week. It just gets better every day. At first, sleep deprivation was tough but now, it's ALL pleasure. Just wait 'til the first time he smiles at you!

Nice work. I don't have the patience for that kind of work. I can do mechanical all day long but electrical and body work just gets me in knots. Cant wait to see the paint! The body kit does nice to the car.

Only one guy was original. The rest are copycats. It just goes to show that style is contageous, good or bad.

Can you register it as a kit car? Drop a v8 into it and call it a kit car.

Good thinking. DIY - the way I live my life. Did it fix your smoking habit?

You guys are making me feel old.

CONTINUED HERE: Moved to MS section: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=765415#post765415

This is a continuation of the thread I started in Misc. Tech section. When I started, it was really a mechanical re-arrangement of intakes, filters, fuel lines, injectors..... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120997&highlight=installing+MS-II Now it has become an all out wiring/tuning battle so I am continuing the thread here. This morning I got up at 7am after thinking all night about what lay ahead. I spent three hours in the garage pretty much staring at wires. Old ones, new ones, mystery ones? It was very depressing. I started ripping out old wiring I had done for the initial L28ET swap, analyzing what wires did what and went where! I was very confused. Then I thought about all the wiring I had to do. I had to step away. I went to draw a wiring diagram and got even more frustrated. Ugggh. This is going to be painful. After tossing around a billion ideas I finally decided to get off my brain and let my hands do some work. I made the executive decision to pull the drivers seat and mount all the hardware under it. Then I put in another three hours of work. It's all screwed down to a lexan plate and the front of the ECU is accessible from under the front of the seat. I realize that changing and inspecting fuses is going to be a pain but at least I can run all my wiring to-and-from the same area. I am going to run a big fat ground wire from the engine block to the ground rail you see there. All my hot in's and out's are going though the fuse block. The main relay will tie to the ign switch and it's ground will be a hidden kill switch. The fuel pump relay will power the O2, Coil, Pump, and the E-Fan. The main relay will power the ECU, and Injectors. Does it look like it will work? My brain still hasn't fully wrapped around it yet? Does anyone think that the length of the MAP sensor tube is too long?

A few of my "secrets". 1 Use Hamachi to control a remote computer for surfing. (invisible to most firewalls) 2 Click on the google link to the cached version of the site. 3 Use babelfish to translate the site from "anylanguage" to English. (be prepared for some funny translations) 4 Free dialup service...if you have access to one. hehehe shhhhh! My "big brother" uses websense also. When it was installed here, I downloaded and read the entire manual. Gotta know your enemy.

My new plan...it has changed a dozen times...is to leave the stock PCV valve in the manifold, with the fitting arrangement I posted above, to suck on the block vent during vacuum conditions. Now, instead of just leaving the valve cover vent filtered to atmoshpere, I am going to shove a piece of steel tube into the downpipe and connect that to the valve cover through a check valve. My thinking is: -Under cruise with high vacuum, the block vent will be put under vacuum from the intake through the PCV valve. -Under boost, the PCV valve shuts, the downpipe will create vacuum and suck on the valve cover vent. This will put the crankcase under vacuum at all times using two different sources. If I get too much vacuum I can tweak things.

Here is how I got my stock PCV to fit in the stock L28ET manifold with a larger turbo.