cygnusx1

Ha ha did the same thing about a year ago. At least now you wont be surprised by the side of the road when it doesn't fit.

Putnam County, just North of Westchester.

OK now we might have a problem. The kerosene heater put a skim coat of kerosene on top of the water. The house is starting to smell like kerosene. The layer of kerosene is thin and sparse covering about 10% of the water in little pools. I threw in 1/4 bottle of dish soap to try to bond the kerosene to the water so it gets pumped out. I have a fan blowing the air directly out of the basement to the outside and I have opened a few windows in the house. Any other suggestions? No I don't smoke.

Look at the max waterline mark on the wall and door frame! At least it's crystal clear, all natural, mountain fed, ground water!

I have become addicted to black wrinkle paint! Test fitting the tower brace.

Maybe off topic but could an adjustable proportioning valve help your case? It's not much harder to install than a full set of pads and shoes if you have the right tools. It will allow you to tweak your F-R bias to your hearts content.

How are you guys up in Central Northwestern NY doing? Got Snow? We a ton of rain here. My basement has 18" of water in it. Our road washed away completely. I am running the sump pump taking out about 1" an hour. Fortunately my boiler and home services are up on a step about 30" high. I also learned from Hurrican Floyd a few years ago not to store anything valuable on the first two storage shelves from the floor. This time I only lost a Kerosene heater, a few 80's records, and maybe some holiday decorations. There are alot of home that had bridges to cross a stream for driveway access. Alot of them are now stranded with no bridge!

You can just TEE in a length of hose about 12"-15" long after the fuel pump and stick it straight up with a cap on it. The column of air inside the hose will act as a damper. Might not be needed but better to do it now than go back and add one later if you need it.

That will be tough with all wheel drive.

More work today. Fuel lines converted to AN. Since the fuel lines have two flares in them, I cut off the first one and then couterbored out the red fitting just deep enough from the bottom that it slips over the second flare. If I didnt, it would not go on the line deep enough. Budget RRFPR. No room for error here. Short tubes. NOTE: I used sealant compound on all the compression fittings. Ford Racing "green tops" Air filter location (yeah I know hot air) I have no way to get it out front,

My Z had been running 30- 50 degrees too cold when driven easy and then peaks at the thermostat temperature when driven hard. I suspect that my thermostat hangs open. Since it never overheats, I say the cooling system has not reached its limit. Therefore, a lower thermostat temp MIGHT allow me some ping leeway. Z-YA, I see what you mean about fluctuating temperatures if the t-stat is too low. Basically if the t-stat is wide open, you might as well not even have one in there. If you imagine it's not there (wide open), engine temp will be proportional only to engine load and system cooling efficiency. Both of which will fluctuate causing the coolant temp to fluctuate as well.

I am about to replace mine also. I might go with a 160 too. Any sources? I found a Wahler Thermostat that rates 160F http://www.autopartsauthority.com/parts_catalog/buy.php?make_text=nissan&model_text=280z&ml=280-z-001&year=1976&part_name=thermostat&brand_name=wahler&r=1&make_code=NI

Well, didn't get a ton of work done but I realized that there is no way the fuel line is going straight into the rail. The therm. housing is too far in the way. I had to order two more overpriced AN fittings to get around it. Meanwhile, I fabricated two brackets to hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. I do everything with scrap metal I have laying around, a hammer, drill, hacksaw, vice, and spray paint. Oh and I polished up the fuel rail a bit. Yes, toolbenches get cluttered!

1995 Ford Escort 2008 WRX Sedan

NOBODY is as bored as I am right now. I can't even leave because my car is in the service shop and they "MIGHT" finish it by the time they close at 6pm.... It's FRIDAY too and I can't freaking leave. I also have an hour commute. I am being held hostage by Subaru. Did I mention half of my company got half a day today so it's basically a ghost town here.

It sets up in one minute all by itself and it's flawless. http://www.hamachi.cc/

Rust is now called "Patina" at the big auction places. They are making original unrestored, barn finds, into the "in" thing. These models go along with this trend. Very nice.

I find Opera has the most flexible and innovative features. As far as downloading videos. If they are Media Player based, right click, properties on the video and look for the direct url link. Paste that into your browser and sometimes it will prompt you to save it. Flash video is more difficult.

No dummy!!! Gillie suits for car dealerships look like this:

Hehe, now I am at work! Pretty fast commute huh? I did 42 miles in 2 minutes.

Anyone use Hamachi? It's a really cool piece of free software that lets you create a "LAN" network between PC's over the internet. You can drag and drop files, share folders, run LAN game servers between friends, and remote control desktop your home PC from anywhere! Just install Hamachi, it gives your PC an IP address on the web, Name the network give it a complex password. Go to another PC install Hamachi, join the network you created by name and password and THAT'S IT! It's like having your own private LAN all over the world! BTW it has been tested by GRC for security and it passes with flying colors. ADMINS: I am at work right now controlling my Home PC. So to you it looks like I am at home.

It's a JSK rail made custom for me with 14mm O-Ring ports. I am either going to polish it or paint it black. The valve cover and intercooler pipes are all going to be wrinkle black. I plan on sealing off all the intake manifold ports with plates and NPT plugs. Then I might make an insulated aluminum cover to fit over the body of the manifold to hide all the ugly ports and shield some heat. I wll keep posting photos here as I progress.

Not sure you are supposed to have one in the front lines? Anyone? The one that is in my rear line is in the ashtray location of the center console. The rear brake line runs under my center console and then down into the trans tunnel. Check my gallery for photos.

I have been tearing out the plumbing and electrical system of my 83 turbo motor in my Z. I am in the process of converting to Ford 440cc o-ring injectors with euro pintle caps, AN fitting fuel delivery, a new cold air intake, and Megasquirt-II. Here are some progress photos. Mice pissed and sh1t on the intake manifold over the winter. Stripped and test fitting the injectors and rail. Rail comes very close to thremostat housing. I will be replacing the bolts on the housing with button head allen bolts for clearance of the fuel feed line. Fuel pressure gauge on the rail end.

My car was painted about 8 years ago and the paint is in show condition. However, with all the wrenching I have been doing, I managed to put a few very shallow long waves on the tops of the front fenders. They are very shallow but since the rest of the car is perfect they bother me. Do you think it would be possible for someone to smooth them back out without a repaint. Something like paintless dent repair or something. Either on the car or removing the fenders. What are the odds that it can be done? Like I said they are very shallow long waves barely perceivable unless you are in the right light. I have ZERO knowledge in bodywork. I only know how to maintain paint. Thanks.