cygnusx1

Well, i have made my decision for now. To replace my 2002 WRX towards the middle of 2009 I will get this: http://www.leftlanenews.com/mitsubishi-prototype-x-breaks-cover.html Now THAT is nice!

I just finished unhooking everything from my 83 turbo manifold and it looks like I'll need a plumbing supply shop. I have to make about three or four blocking plates and get about 15 npt plugs to seal it all off. The funny thing is that I have a 76 L28 complete sitting on the floor next to my Z. I am tempted to swap the manifolds but the 83 is probably slightly better design-wise.....maybe.

I think Buffalo and Syracuse areas of NY win the snow total war on this side of the Rockies. Not proud to say, the worse annual weather for Z cars.

Im surprised it takes you out of NY Harbor and doesn't let you drive out to Nova Scotia for a shorter swim!

Ground up restoration and you certainly are starting from the ground Looks better. Keep going!

Sounds like a nice goal. How are you going to resist increasing the boost? You might want a smaller turbo, or two, with large wastegates to maximize the low end thrust and still breath at high revs. I am no cam specialist but you might need to use semi-N/A oriented cam to get your 7000-8000 rpm power. Use the small turbo(s) to make up for the weakness of the cam at low revs. Interesting goal and tough without variable cam timing.

Opinions needed. Would this be ok for an L28ET making about 320rwhp? I figure because it is full stainless, it wont melt if I stick it on the turbo inlet. Eventually I may run it out front as a cold air intake but for now I will just stick it on the 3" inlet of the TO4B. According to math it has roughly 100 square inches of area ignoring the pleats. That would be equivalent to a flat pleated filter of larger than a sheet of paper. 9"x11" or so http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8003460294&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr8_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=290100881535&itemcount=8&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Liquid fuel has trouble igniting. Even when it pours out of weber carb fittings onto very hot headers. Ask me how I know. Just use a few different holesaws in different diameters along the webbing. That might look pretty cool.

Randy, Got any pics of this setup. I was looking at K&N generic filters last night trying to find one that fits my application. I have A/C also with the L28ET in the 280Z. Goin megasquirt and I am in the same boat as you were back in 3/06. I am afraid that the ex. manifold will melt/burn the K&N if I mount it right on the turbo.

Yup, buy the whole bushing kit and the shock/spring kit. You will be very happy with that stuff once it's installed. I will still give you my two poly T/C rod bushings because they are not part of the kit. I keep my word.

Wow thanks! That should help him out and save him a 400 mile round trip or a flatbed. Thanks

A friend of mine lives in Northern Minessota working at Polaris as a design engineer. His wife's Subaru Impreza developed a CEL and a flashing Cruise control light. Cruise has been disabled by the system. He is afraid to let her drive it without knowing what the heck is going on for fear of her getting stuck in the still, sub zero temperatures. His nearest access to an OBDII scanner is over 200 miles away. Anyone know if one can be shipped to him for rental or borrow? Thanks.

Naviathan, thanks for that info. Sounds like nasty stuff! Cody 82 ZXT, nice setup, where are you making vacuum for the catch can? Is it the push-lock tube on the side of the can? Where does it tie in to the motor?

Keep us posted. If it's a relay, that would be a pretty easy spare to add to the "carry-around-spares" list.

The problem is that the Tokico Illumina's will waste your $500 in one foul swoop so I suggest regular tokico inserts and 1" lowering springs. Buy the brake pads/shoes next. Bushing importance: 1) Steering rack 2) I will GIVE you two of my poly T/C rod bushings. You only need two. Keep the rubber ones on the back of the t/c mount. 3)Front LCA bushings, I have Poly ones for cheap...real cheap. slightly used. PM me. I got lots of stuff laying around.

If you are trying to generated vacuum in the catch can with a slash cut tube in the exhaust, I dont think you want the catch can open to a filter otherwise the vacuum is lost. Hmmm. This is a much deeper subject than first appears.

Naviathan, care to explain? NCchris, I read the Hondatech post. Very nice info. It looks like I may go with a slashcut tube in my downpipe to generate vacuum. I suppose I will connect the valve-cover vent and crankcase vents to a sealed catchcan and then run a single hose with check valve to my vacuum generator tube in the downpipe. The intake manifold PCV port will be plugged. The vacuum from the slash cut tube, will draw blow-by gasses into the catch can where the liquids will settle and the smoky stuff will continue into the downpipe, six inches downstream of the O2 sensor. Sound right? This should keep the intake nice and clean and create a vacuum in the crankcase under loads. The smoke will go out the tailpipe and the solid contaminents will be stored in the catch can for draining later.

Aww, you know how to ruin a parade don't you? Reality check.

Some guy out here last week at the dyno with his Sti made 568awhp @35psi race gas.

Springs, struts, and a poly bushing kit...biggest bang for the buck besides wheels and tires. Dont go much lower than 1" from stock though. The tires may rub until you get flares and cut the metal away. Also some brake work is nice if you havent done so. A good pad and shoe upgrade, SS brake flex lines, makes a world of difference. Strut tower bars.... sorry if I listed stuff you already have. If I did you can buy it anyway and send it to me instead..

The main thing that is missing from it is character. All the previous ones had a character to them. This one has got none of it. If they had only left the blister flares on the wheel arches, it would have looked nice. I love the bugeye one, especially with the factory front lip on it. Where are the flares Subaru?

Did anyone see what they did to the WRX for 2008.....! Ugghhhhh what a crime! What were they thinking? Tell me it's an April Fools joke. http://www.autoblog.com/photos/2008-subaru-impreza/ I have the original ugly 2002 Bugeye WRX...but it's ugly in a cute way like a pug. The 2008 just seems plain wrong like 1995 Hyundai accent meets 2007 civic meets chrysler grill maker.

Did you connect both vents to the can?

Hey wassup Flames? burn any air filters lately? I got the tires from tirerack. Yes they were pricy but...I dont think tires are a good place to skimp when peformance and your life are at stake. Thanks. It is a contender....for something. ....the most money I've ever spent on my Z in one year contest.

I am in the process of tearing down my fuel system and intake system for the new injectors, rail, MS-II and new air intake. I had the crank case vent connected to the intake through the stock PCV valve and the valve cover vented into the intake tube before the turbo. Now that I am going MSII with MAP sensing, would it be ok to connect the valve cover and the crank case vent to a catch can that has a filter to atmosphere? Could I just plug up the old PCV valve hole in the manifold? If so, does anyone have any ideas or photos of how this can be done to look clean in the engine bay? I could also just put small filters on the Crank vent and valve cover vent and forget PVC and a catch can. No? Any thoughts ideas appreciated. I tried searching but I came across some dead end links. I did read about the benefits of having vacuum in the crank case though.