cygnusx1

Isn't our technological limit to braking distance, tire traction not caliper grip? Good modulation is nice to have but the limit is traction with the road, not the design of the caliper.

Actually it was about 60 degrees and sunny.

Good news and procedure I used for installing the lifters. Well, I learned that you don't install the lifters without filling them up with oil first. After I cleaned them and installed them semi-dry, they ticked like a sewing machine and wouldn't pump up after a few minutes at idle. I didn't feel comfortable letting the engine run like that so I decided to try another approach. 1) With the lifters completely disassembled and clean, dunk the parts in a pot of clean motor oil. (dont mix lifter parts). 2) Reach in the pot and get all the air our of the parts by kickin them around. 3) Assemble them completely submerged in oil, leaving off the retainer cap. (use pin punch to push the inner ball check open to get cylinder down the bore). 4) Take the assembled lifter out of the pot and hold it in a vice threads down. (aluminum jaws in the vice please!!) 5) Place the cap on carefully level, and tap it on with a socket and SMALL hammer and LIGHT taps. It will not go on all the way yet. 6)Once the cap is in place you should not be able to twist it by hand. 7)Compress the lifter in the vice very slowly and work the cap on with your fingers until it just snaps into place and rotates freely by hand. 8)Install the lifter in the car. Tighten to 30-35ft lb...not more. NOTE: When i started the car there was little or no compression because the lifters needed to sink down to their operating level. I hooked up a battery charger, disabled the ignition and cranked for 20 seconds at a time. After about 2 minutes, I could hear the compression coming back so I enabled the ignition. It fired up and idled rough with little vacuum for about 1-2 minutes. I could see as the idle started to smooth out, the vacuum climbed steadily to 19in. This was an indication that the lifters were "finding" their correct positions. I took it for a drive and it feels like it has at least 25 more HP and 25 more foot pounds. I found myself thinking of getting wider rear tires as the rear end started getting loose in 3rd gear at 55mph!

Why? Because I fell out of my chair?

Great driving!

Update: The lifters were full of a thick black gooey sludge. I soaked all the disassembled lifters one at a time in GUNK carb cleaner dip. The stuff is amazing. 20 minutes and they wiped clean to bare metal. Next I dunked the parts in 10W-30, wiped them, and assembled them. After I did all of them, I installed them basically "empty". I cranked the starter with no injection for about 1 minute. Then I started the engine and they ticked pretty loudly. After about 5 seconds, they got quieter but not nearly as quiet as they should be. They sounded more like a solid lifter with too much clearance. I shut it down after 2 minutes of idle and took them all out again. I had at least 70psi oil pressure showing. This time, I am going to assemble them while totally submerged in 10W-30 so that they are full of oil when installed. Fingers crossed.

Welcome back online HybridZ! Here is a video that is so funny, I fell out of my chair. Good clean funny. -

You can also use generic rubber corner molding. $49 for four corners. Search for my thread about bumpers that has the details. It covers the holes and looks better than the stock 240Z rubber.

CAPTIONS: "Every time someone asks about a toyota caliper conversion on their 1st post, Joey gets the cart!" "I think the caster angle is all wrong!" "How much toe do you run during stupid stunts?"

You gotta have this? ROFL. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Wood-Datsun-Sports-Car-Hand-Back-Body-Massager_W0QQitemZ250001637138QQihZ015QQcategoryZ36450QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

It is an awesome idea and great results! It looks a bit shiny for my taste. Maybe it could be sprayed over with a can of matte or flat black to make it look like suede.

Thanks, actually it's a pretty run-of-the-mill Olympus camera that we use at work. It's a beater cam. The trick is Photoshop. I didn't have time yesterday to take the rest of the lifters out and soak them. I am hoping to do that tonight and put it back together by the end of the week.

It's like buying half a Porsche. Cool site. Look what else they have. http://www.terra2imports.ca/import-japan115861438315651.htm

Continuing on: I picked up a gallon can of chem dip parts cleaner and will disassemble and soak all the lifters tonight. Part two of disassembly. Pictures should speak for themselves. Hint use the back end of a Sharpie to pull out the bottom lifter piston. Pull VERY slowly and twist after you cram the sharpie into the piston. I roughly measured about 0.0005" clearance between the body and the piston.

Well, mine is not a daily driver and I have a 280Z motor sitting right here so I took the risk of damage and popped the cap off the lifter. PARTIALLY DISASSEMBLED The easiest way to do it is to grab the ball tip in a vice. With the lifter upside down. Use aluminum jaws in the vice and wrap the ball with tape or cloth to avoid damage. Get a wide flat tip screw driver and push down on the edge of the cap and gently tap the end of the screwdriver with your fist. Work all the way around the cap a little at a time and it pops off. The center section (piston) then slides right out. Look down into the lifter body after flushing it out with some solvent and you will see the top of a spring ball valve. I filled the body with solvent and pushed down gently on the ball to let the solvent get into the lower part of the lifter workings. I will do this to all of them and let them soak in a bath of solvent for a couple of days. I am not sure if this is the end all solution but it's mildly fun. At this point I understant how the lifter works but the thing that baffles me, for now, is where does that ball-spring valve at the bottom of the body lead to? There are no bleed holes anywhere near the bottom of the housing?........EDIT: AHAA! I get it now. http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html <----this helped I will post more pics after lunch. There are more parts to this story.

http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?p=225080#225080

It looks like I could pry that cap with the swaged dimples off the top (is that the collar Thumper?) - but I don't wan to ruin it, I need it.

Well, here I am. I got a flat tire on the Z so it gave me an excuse to actually take it into the garage. I pulled off the valve cover and popped out a hydraulic lifter in about 2 minutes. I will finish it up tomorrow. The lifter body is stamped 29M. Is this as far as it comes apart or can it be taken apart further for soaking in a cleaner? Should I stick a wire in the port to clean it or not? Any suggestions? Here is one of the lifters:

Rofl

Nice job. You did what some of our "members" couldn't pull together. Nice to have you onboard and welcome to HybridZ.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/music/clipserve/B00014GHP2001016/0/ref=mu_sam_wma_001_016/002-1071961-4697648 Just the good ol' boys, Never meanin' no harm, Beats all you've ever saw, been in trouble with the law since the day they was born. Straight'nin' the curve, Flat'nin' the hills. Someday the moutain might get 'em, but the law never will. Makin' their way, The only way they know how, That's just a little bit more than the law will allow. Just good ol' boys, Wouldn't change if they could, Fightin' the system like a true modern day Robin Hood.

What a dream...driving through the most beautiful roads of the world. Winding through the Alps in a rally prepped Z! http://www.wientriest.at/wtrace/topics/2006_Teilnehmer Klaus Fritzinger need new wallpaper? -->http://www.avd.de/ogpracing/fotos/fotos2006/Fritzinger,%20Kottulinsky%20auf%20Datsun%20240%20Z%20von%201971.jpg Anyone read German? http://www.classicdriver.de/de/magazine/3200.asp?id=2722 And some results for Datsuns in rally with a few links. http://www.z-point.nl/00.htm

So how did it turn out?

I have alot of collective experience with the subies. I have a first gen 2002 that has been running about 4psi over stock (265bhp) since it was new and I now have 95K miles on it with NO issues. Never, ever, has it been back to the dealer other than two safety recalls. It has a squeeky clean record. Two of my very close adult friends have STI's modded to 400HP and both cars have run about 40K miles in this state with not an issue. They also do track days. Mind you, I don't mean to generalize, but alot of what you read on the subie forums comes from kids, and some adults, that don't know how to drive (and have no idea what fuel mixtures are). The cars are TOUGH and will amaze you every drive, rain, snow, sleet, hail, on dirt, gravel, or asphalt. The wing...yes it is obnoxious. I'm fully on the same page with you in the looks area. You can look for a "limited" model which is very subdued. I have seen it in person and is a very acceptable "adult" car. Or you can buy a regular STI in an earthtone color and sell the wing to a kiddie or just trade trunk lids which is very common. Bang for the buck? 0-60 in 4.5sec with AWD and 6speed for $32K electronically limited to 155mph? You bet. Go ahead and drive one for a day and you will be hooked. You will change your tune about "needing" AWD. I roll on to near full throttle just after the car takes a set on corner entry and shoot out of a corner like a slingshot.

With the STI and about $4k-$6K in mods you can beat all the cars you have listed already.