cygnusx1

Nope Rush is definately not heavy metal...

IMHO the band that sounds closest to their recordings is RUSH. They are amazingly accurate. I gotta check out the new Slayer tho.

Here is Buzz's car before he began the full resto. The motor is a hyped out N/A Tripple Weber, venolia custom pistons, high compression, bored, blueprinted and balanced, nismo autocross cam, and twice pipe exhaust...with a dash of Ferrari leather seats! http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/Trippple_WeberZ.avi

I like the one piece design. You could put a small piece of clear Stonegaurd on the rear quarters to keep it from scuffing the paint. With three piece you always run into alignment issues and you end up drilling or bonding to the rear quarters....nevermind scuffing the paint.

I think the original Japanese engineers already tested the S30 in a cardboard tunnel with household fans... That's how it got to be as "aerodynamic" as it is already. <(my sarcastic humor) It is a really cool project you are undertaking and definitely sounds like alot of fun.

Wheel Horsepower: Stock N/A L28 will net you about 250-300 with alot of internal and external work. Semi-Streetable L28ET will get you 250-350 with little or no internal work. 350-550 with internal and external work. Very Streetable V8 will get you WHATEVER you want. Very Streetable VERY GENERAL INFO....search the forums for specifics.

Welcome to HybridZ. Is this your first Z? Sorry about the father in law but at least his Z will continue on the right path. Spend alot of time reading this forum. This is the place to be. If that Z ever needs a new home...I will be glad to adopt her. She is beautiful!

The seal between the lead rotor and the trailing rotor, that keeps the gasses from escaping to the crank, could be a potential problem because it would require pretty high preload forces to make the seal. The compression forces are trying to rip apart the two connecting rod discs making the seal is critical. It is shaping up to be a torque monster but not a HP monster.

Last week I was following an old Toyota Terdcel at about 45mph on a backroad and a huge deer jumped out over the white line about 2 feet in front of the Toyota. It slammed into the windshield, deflecting the deer about 20 feet into the air which was spinning like a frisbee. It glided about 75 feet through the air and landed in a pile of dirt on the other bank of the road. It tried to get up to run but it was pretty much paralyzed. I was very disturbed by the whole thing. The lady in the Terdcell was fine. The windshield was smashed. Deer just jump on reflex. They don't have any sense of timing at all.

Yuck! I pulled the pulley off and of course I didn't need a puller, it was so lose. The key was all worn and the keyway in the crank was widened a bit. The back of the pulley had a crack running right along the keyway. What an ugly scene. I went over to my original motor on the floor and pulled the L28 pulley. It's a bit smaller and lighter but dimensionally it fits. I used the L28 key and pulley on the L28ET motor. I need to get a shorter A/C belt because the pulley is smaller. The pulley went on very tightly, I had to hammer the socket drive to get it to press onto the front of the crank. Once it was about 3/4 of the way on, the bolt got looser and I was able to use my hand on the wrench. I guess it had to pass a burr. I hope it didn't push the key back! Oh well, "whatever", at this point. It runs good and is quiet. I put some locktite around the pulley ID and hammered the socket for final torque. Cross fingers please. If it gives me trouble now the only option I have is to pull the motor. I am NOT looking forward to that.

Grrr, Actually you are not late, I waited, I didn't get it off last night. I worked on brakes instead. I will pull it off this morning and hopefully the keyway in the crank isn't worn and it's just the key or the pulley worn out. Fingers crossed.

It looks like my L28ET damper finally let go. I thought my timing chain loosened up by the metallic clanging noise up front. I checked the chain and all is well. I noticed that the crank damper has alot of movement to it when I grab a belt and pull on it. I am now assuming that the rubber let loose and it's knocking around a little. I am about to pull it off. I have a crank damper from my L28 sitting around that looks to be in decent shape. Should it work on the L28ET? Update: There is about 20 degrees of freeplay where the damper bolts to the pulley...I hope the keyway in the crank is not worn. We will see in about 20 minutes. I think the rubber damper material is still OK but one of the keyways or key is worn.

The way that car lofted, I would say his downforce became lift...and of course drag.

At least it's not "Fast and Furious IV - The Big Oval" sponsored by NASCAR.

Slightly off topic but even red locktite softens if you heat it up with a flame. It's not really permanent. Yeah, mark it and keep an eye on it like, ezzzzzzzz said.

Downforce in reverse = lift.

Actually, we referenced the inside of the front frame rails to establish a "centerline" with a framing square and the rack is 3/8" back on the drivers side relative to square. We didnt measure to the engine mounts. We did, as a cross check, look at the engine mount holes relative to centerline and they were pretty close to square. The only gripe is that the boot rubs on the drivers side and tears after a while. The boot on the pass. side has about 1/4" clearance to the c-member. I did see the above photos in an old post when I did a search but it's hard to tell anything without the rack in place. Thanks...

Last night I helped Buzz reassemble his front suspension after he dismantled everything for painting the bay. We noticed that the steering rack sits crooked in the front crossmember. Looking from the top, the rack is about 3/8" back on the drivers side. The rack boot on the drivers side actually rubs on the side flange of the crossmember! We checked to make sure that the crossmember was square to the front frame rails referencing the motor mount holes, and it was square. Then we checked to see if the rack mount tabs were level with eachother to determine if they were out of line but they were level with eachoter horizontally. The bushings are properly installed. The crossmember shows no obvious wrikles asides from some waves in the lower web from improper jacking point. It's a 77. The rack also has a little u-bolt strap on it with a single bumper that looks like it stops the rack from rotating under stress. The bumper is about 1/4" off of the nearest surface...it's not really doing anything. Any advice before we get ready to install the motor? New crossmember anyone?

Sounds broken...or your intake boot is leaking badly. Search for "adjusting AFM" or "air flow meter".

I turn off the engine on downhills (j/K). I don't fill up the Z for weekend romps...it slides easier with less gas anyhow. All in all I am glad that there are less semi-conscious people watching DVD's while driving their Minivans and SUV's!!! About #%@$!*in' time!!!

I suppose it would increase it.

Tidal power. Do you know how much energy it takes to raise an ocean up 12"!! MONGO ENERGY. How do we convert it though...that's the issue.