cygnusx1

I wonder if modern day carbon canisters are smaller than a coffee can? If I had room, I'd add one. Many people here, including myself, have removed the carbon canister to make room in the bay for something else. My car is driven so infrequently that it is not a huge pollution contributor especially given the fact that the original post, my post, was about the LACK of venting from the fuel tank. Want to keep emissions down? Let's get America to sacrifice some of it's excessively wasteful lifestyle. Employ the US's environment-saving technologies in other polluting countries. That's the REAL way to deal with environment killing. Stop going after the wounded targets and get the REAL stuff.

I just came back from the New York auto show. At the Nissan display they had a photo wall with about a dozen LCD panels mounted inside of it. They were flashing photos on the screens of older Nissan products. There were a bunch of early Z's that they showed. One of them was a yellow Z with black stripes up the sides and a guy was crouching in front of it wearing a HybridZ hat. Who was it?

Yeah my urethane airdam has aluminum bracing that runs to the lower rad support as well. The G-Nose is not my cup of tea either. I like the mean look of the open mouth. My 280 was bone stock when I bought it and I drove it alot that way for quite a few years. After 80mph it started to get light. The stock suspension does NOT hold a candle to even the most basic performance shocks, springs, and bushings. Now, even with my pretty basic street performance suspension and braced urethane air-dam I have had mine to 120 on the track and it is totally stable. I am not sure how much faster it will feel stable? I would love to do a full belly pan from air-dam to rear valence but cooling the engine and exhaust would need to be thought out. I am thinking about a rear BRE type spoiler, at this point, purely for looks and experimentation. I do like the pan behind the air-dam idea to get more air to the intercooler.

Actually the splitter could be made of a flexible plastic as well. It doesn't have to be a full belly plate either. It just need to be a strip along the bottom of the air-dam. My air-dam scrapes the road at the bottom of my steep driveway unless I pull out diagonally, ughh. I drive my car up onto pieces of lumber so I can fit the jack under it.

For a street driven car, it is enough to obtain relatively neutral lift at sane speeds. On the street you aren't looking for added downforce traction for handling curves at high speeds. The speeds would need to be ridiculously high and the wings ridiculously large to get that kind of traction assistance. I think that a properly mounted front airdam (as most of you have done here) of the common variety neutralizes the front end enough for normal highway use. If you were to go to excessive speeds competitively, a g-nose and rear lip spoiler are probably your best bets for stability. As far as reducing drag AND increasing downforce: That is a huge challenge since downforce creates drag but drag does not necessarily create downforce. I also found that 80mph was the magic number for a totally stock S30. After 80mph the steering got light. With the air-dam, 1" suspension drop, good springs and shocks, it goes stable to 120 as far as I can tell. I don't know where the next step change happens. I'm guessing at about 135-140.

I don't know off the top of my head but if you call http://www.brakewarehouse.com they usually have the answers. I have had good luck with them and their stuff.

I left the original 280Z prop valve fully functional and ran a new rear line from the stock prop valve to the adjustable prop valve and then to the rear splitter. The adjustable valve fits in the ashtray pocket of the trans tunnel. This is the way Dave at AZC told me to do it. It works well. I can lock the fronts or the rears first. The proportioning valve is about half way through it's adjustment for proper balance.

You should hit the "shift" key along with the first letter of every sentence to capitalize the first letter of each sentence only. I would use the turbo block. It's much stronger.

Check the downloads section. There are drawings for adapters that I made.

I have a 200SX trans with a low 1st gear and 3.54 rear. 1st is too low to use the boost. By the time I got boost, I have to shift. Listen to my first gear! and that's uphill! http://videos.streetfire.net/iPlayer.aspx?fileid=ECC8AED8-460E-4A89-98AB-F58B0345ABB6

Even my 3:54 seems too spin too fast. No boost in 1st gear. I sometimes launch in 2nd.

Wow 4:375? That is for pulling trailers isn't it? Super low.

My fuel tank is leaking so I got the rear end up on stands and drained the tank for repair. While I was underneath the car I decided to inspect the drivetrain. The driveline clunks when I get on-off the throttle in the lower gears. Now I know this is a trait of about every S30 ever built but I think I want to get to the bottom of it. It's not one of the usual suspects. NOT: U-Joints (CV in my case) Diff Mount Mustache Bar Wheel Bearing Stub shafts Splines MAYBE: Backlash in the diff gears Bearings in the diff (I doubt it because they are quiet) If I take one of the rear wheels and rotate it gently, I can go about 10 degrees before the other wheel turns opposite direction. If I grab the driveshaft and twist it, I can get about 2-3 degrees of play out of it. Trans in neutral. Is there normally this much lash stacking in the spiders, ring and pinion? Are modern diffs this loose? Should I run sawdust in the diff.

What counts is the area under the curve. The more area the faster it is.

Been there twice. Drove from NY once in college and flew there with the wife and friends a couple of years ago. We stayed at El Tovar. ...Awesome place to visit. Enjoy and don't get too close to the edge. Here are a couple of shots I took there.

My neck hurts just from leaning into the turns in my desk chair!! Onboard a V8 Jag touch-and-go with an Audi TT. PLEASE FASTEN YOUR SEATBELT!!! http://www.cranston-racing.com/images/V8Star_24h_2004.wmv

Lucky me has a 280Z with 40pound bumpers (80lbs total). I got to remove those and replaced them with 240 bumpers. That saved about 65 pounds. It made a very big difference in steering response and braking feels better too. I am now considering replacing the steel hood with my cowl FG hood. Weight reduction is better than HP, it helps everything.

Job done. 65 pounds less!

Nice! and 2970 pounds too! I saw your other thread. That's about 290WHP. http://www.4lo.com/calc/dynocalc.htm

A check valve in the gas cap would work. You need to find a valve with a very low cracking pressure though. I bet it's a fraction of a psi. Not easy to find a valve for pressures that low. A tiny pinhole drilled into the cap might work even better. I wonder what keeps that vent line to the engine bay from breathing??

Matt, if you got one left, where shall I send the moola?

AIRLINE LAUGHS After every flight, Qantas Australia pilots fill out a form, called a "gripesheet," which tells mechanics about problems with the aircraft. The mechanics correct the problems, document their repairs on the form, and then pilots review the gripe sheets before the next flight. Never let it be said that ground crews lack a sense of humor. Here are some actual maintenance complaints submitted by Qantas' pilots (marked with a P) and the solutions recorded (marked with an S) by maintenance engineers. By the way Qantas is the only major airline that has never, ever, had an accident. >> > P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement. >> > S: Almost replaced left inside main tire. >> > >> > P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough. >> > S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft. >> > >> > P: Something loose in cockpit. >> > S: Something tightened in cockpit. >> > >> > P: Dead bugs on windshield. >> > S: Live bugs on back-order. >> > >> > P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet >> > per minute descent. >> > S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground. >> > >> > P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear. >> > S: Evidence removed. >> > >> > P: DME volume unbelievably loud. >> > S: DME volume set to more believable level. >> > >> > P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick. >> > S: That's what friction locks are for. >> > >> > P: IFF inoperative in OFF mode. >> > S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode. >> > >> > P: Suspected crack in windshield. >> > S: Suspect you're right. >> > >> > P: Number 3 engine missing. >> > S: Engine found on right wing after brief search. >> > >> > P: Aircraft handles funny. >> > S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be >> > serious. >> > >> > P: Target radar hums. >> > S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics. >> > >> > P: Mouse in cockpit. >> > S: Cat installed. >> > >> > And the best one for last.................. >> > >> > P: Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds >> > like a midget pounding on something with a hammer. >> > S: Took hammer away from midget. ROFL