cygnusx1

rebuild....depends on the backlash, the bearing condition, the breakaway torque and what you expect from it.

Do we have any artists here that could draw a retro-modern 240Z? I know there were alot of sketches around just before the 350Z came out.

Pete, yes I am sure we met last year. We just didnt drive on the track together. I took the yellow sticker on the windsheild as it was my second time ever on a track.

OK I couldnt resist. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/BennyHillVideo.wmv

Sorry you hit your head that hard. You've lost your mind. That was hillarious! The only thing that would make it funnier would be to speed it up and add the Benny Hill theme song.

I would have helped you to strip the car but I had to bring my cat to the vet....go ahead laugh. You did a fine job by yourself. Now let's get your LS1 240Z done!!!

Ha Ha Ha ROFL!

Cool Site. I wonder how accurate the inventory reports are though?

I dont like to leave threads hanging so I come back to update. I did install the camber bushings up front but left the bumpsteer spacers. Result is about 1.3 degree negative up front. I have also loosened the front swaybar endlinks to allow the rear bar to work more and I really like the way the car is behaving now. Switching to the 240 bumpers really helped as well. I will add the rear camber bushings soon too. I found a neat way to measure caster that I want to try. With the car perfectly level on the ground: "Steer the wheel 20 degrees in both directions, subtract the two camber readings and mulitiply by 1.5".

Some Ferrari wheels and Lambo wheels were made by Campagnolo...the bicycle part company. Maybe it's them.

Well I did it. I ordered the front and rear camber bushings from MSA. This morning I installed the front bushings and set them to max camber. I must say that the wrench they supply is totally inadequate for adjusting the bushings. It is only good for using as a template to make a real wrench. After putting the front end back together and doing a few tape measure toe alignments, I made a jig with a steel bar and a level to measure the camber at the rim. I leveled the car best I could and measured the wheel camber. The fronts are now running 1.25 and 1.35 degrees negative as best as I can measure and calculate. I took it for a drive and right away noticed that the tire temps were more even across the tread.

Yeah they are getting VERY rare up here in the Northeast. I don't think I've seen a "free roaming" S30 in about two or three years. I've seen a couple of them at shows but that's it! Mine definitely turns heads and it's usually people with big money cars who are long time enthusiasts that have "made it" and miss their Z.

Squid? Well, no doubt about it something's fishy here.

I love the part when David pulls back into his driveway after the first run. Look at the kids holding their ears! )

I had my Z "Holy Rollered" at Syracuse last year. Nice people. I wonder if the SC is robbing torque from you. However, the torque curve is nice and wide.

205MPH http://videos.streetfire.net/hottestvideos/1/CB2A294D-9242-405C-9E64-5E09E55D9703.htm

Owner of what site? and participate in what stuff?

There are SIGNIFICANT differences between a GTV and a GTA...one sells in the 10's of thousands and one sells in the 100's of thousands. The GTA was a track version that had a high aluminum content for lightness. You can usually tell them apart by the gap in the front hood. The GTA has an open slit at the top of the hood. http://www.a2zracer.com/page17.html Here is the GTA:

DoH! Don't worry, shyt happens. Now back to the drilling the hole thing...make sure you drill a little pinhole or you will be posting about boost falling off in between shifts. Drill it on the "To Wastegate" side.

I gave you very good advice...did you try it? Bicycle pump or compressor and a gauge to make sure the valve is opening at the set pressure. Hook up a peice of hose with a gauge to the source (bottom fitting) and pump to 15psi (or whatever) and it should start bleeding out the other side. Where are you connecting for boost source? Mine connects right on the exit of the compressor for the fastest response. Also push a little stick inside the bottom fitting and push up gently to open the ball. Blow into the other side fittng to make sure you are getting flow when the ball unseats. If you dont understand how it works...read here and look at the diagrams. http://www.well.com/~mosk/boost.htm

I am guessing the booster has something wrong with it. Do the brakes actually work with the engine off?

80 degrees and sunny today. EvilC have a nice day at work. I'll be lounging.

Your wastegate is not opening quick enough or it's not flowing enough. It's that simple. I wish there was more I could say but that's it. Tripple check that your actuator is in healthy shape. You might want a larger actuator.