cygnusx1

I was really happy with Redline MTL in mine a few years back. I since went back to off the shelf gear oil and can't wait to get back to Redline. The Redline really let me shift fast. The standard oil seems to make me wait for the synchs to catch up. What is the latest Redline Oil spec's for the Datsun transmissions? I want to buy some and cant remember what it was. Here are the choices: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?pvID=109&prodID=57&subcatID=18

VERY NICE...I just wanna eat it. Looks so tasty. How is the performance? Notice any differences in cooling or stability? BTW He has every right to show off. It's all his own handiwork.

Am I missing the obvious? Thermostat not opening correctly?

I remember in the mid 90's hearing an interview with a hair-band rocker who was describing taking his 280Z down the highway in CA, rolling it over three times, and walking away. Can't remember who it was though...?

I've got a VERY similar Mr. Gasket fan 16" on mine. I have Intercooler/OilCooler/AC Condenser/Radiator all stacked up front and the car tends to run cool even at 15psi boost and in traffic. That looks like a great deal since I paid $80 for mine. Mine came with an adjustable temperature fan controller and relay though.

I've even heard from some people that the N/A electronics are better and more reliable than the Turbo 280ZX Electronics. Some have even converted from 280ZXT EFI to N/A EFI systems on their turbo cars. I think either system can be tweaked or tuned to work pretty well with boost. Search this site for EFI and turbo.

Maybe it was...I saw Kari pulling up in it one episode. Maybe she stole it from Scottie? DOH

Mine survived the winter in the shed with not a hitch. Fired right up thanks to the small solar panel on the shed roof. It runs soooo nice but I want it to run cleaner and meaner so I bought some Ford Lightning 420cc Bosch Injectors and I am shopping for a standalone fuel/spark system. Once I install it and get it running well for the Summer and Fall, I will put it away again for the Winter and start shopping for engine rebuild parts for next years project. This Summer/Fall: Standalone System (shopping) 420cc injectors (got it) Triangulated Front Strut Bar (got it) Billet Fuel Rail (got it) Maybe adjustable front camber (somehow). Next Season: Engine Pull/Rebuild Bionic.

How is the 5-speed? Works OK? How much do you want for it? PM me Thanks, Dave

Let me kick it off. Interior Decorator from HGTV, Michael Payne - Yellow 1972 240Z http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A59500-2003Sep24.html Kari Byron from Mythbusters - 280Z http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/mythbusters/meet/meet_03.html

Aha! Sway Bar Blades http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=217,212,363_1436&action=product Here it is installed I dont see any major reasons this concept couldn't be used as an ajustable bend bar suspension as well.

Here is a quote describing what I saw, albeit for swaybar adjustment...still looking for photos. " A convenient way of varying the swaybar stiffness is by use of a sliding attachment to the lever to change the lever arm length. This can be adjusted by the driver through a cable or other mechanical linkage, or more simply clamped and releasable at the lever. A more sophisticated approach is the use of thin, wide blades as levers. When the tin section is horizontal it operates as a spring member and decreases the swaybar stiffness. As the blade is rotated toward the vertical, it become stiffer as does the swaybar. Even more sophisticated push rod suspension dispense with the torsion bar entirely and just use a blade to serve the sway bar function." from http://www.aligncraft.com/performance/primer.html

I know it's not a perfect idea and all of those concerns crossed my mind. The biggest concern, as you mentioned, is not a technical challenge, it's the fact that springs are so cheap and easy to change. By locking out coils, the rate of the assembly does change. It will compress less overall for the same amount of load. There are rubber spacers at auto parts stores that you can stuff in between the spring coils if you want to try it out. It works. I doubt I'll ever make this thing. It was just an idea. In a perfect world, it would be nice to pull into the pits and be able to adjust spring rate wouldn't it? Of course it would be illegal in most classes anyhow. Has anyone seen the adjustments on the F1 cars? It's a shaft milled half way through so the cross section is like half-moon. It bends easily in one direction and stiff in the 90deg direction. They rotate it to whatever angle they want to get the right stiffness. I'll see if I can find a pic.

Ha, I got your attention didn't I. Has anyone ever seen any springs that were adjustable rate? Not for height or damping, I mean truly adjustable RATE. ...oh and no airbags or compressors involved. I think I have a design for one. Let me know if you guys want more info and I'll present my idea. I really think I could patent it but I'm too damn lazy and I don't like dealing with lawyers. I am working on some 3D sketches to demonstrate the concept. Here it is: It's basically a threaded collar that matches spring pitch with the car jacked up. You unclamp the collar from the strut housing and spin the collar up or down the spring. Lock the collar in place and it effectively immobilizes all the coils that are inside the collar. It's the same effect as cutting off coils without actually cutting them off. It should work great with a coilover collar under the whole assembly to also adjust ride height. It has some drawbacks but I think they can all be addressed. SOFT................|STIFF.............|COLLAR ID.............

Actually, If you don't provide an exit for the air hitting the grill, the air won't even enter. It will compress against the radiator and stagnate.

Violacleff, you find it, you holler. Thanks.

I hope he gets it. I'll go out and celebrate the new value of my Z.

Awesome place! I love the style and the layout. The garage addition sounds phenominal. If that were in my neighborhood it would be worth $800K+ as is. I can't even afford to live in my own neighborhood...good thing I bought in before the boom.

Try them. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/ http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/sealsit1.htm

Nah you can keep it. I don't forsee ever going back to my NA motor in this lifetime. Turbo is soo addictive. I didn't really assist Buzz in the paint job, I just keep encouraging him and try to find answers for his questions. He has an awesome Z car that just needs to be TLC'd and he is now well underway! Buzz also lives in NY. A friend of mine and I built the Z that Buzz is working on while we were in high school instead of studying. It sat unused in a garage for 12 years until Buzz just bought from my high school friend a few years back. He is doing a full teardown and reassembly of the car. The motor is still awesome and does not need any work.

OK guys thanks anyway but we found the answer. NEVER add anything to the surface in between coats other than tack cloth if needed. The less you touch to the surface the better off you'll be. Edit: Thanks mikeatrpi. We found out on a painting forum but you confirmed it.

I am helping Buzz to paint his 77 engine bay. He laid down two coats of epoxy primer and is ready to lay the color coats and clear coats today. He went over the two day old primer with tack cloth. Does the Primer need to be washed after tack cloth? The engine bay was covered and indoors for the past two days. Thanks appreciate fast response.

When I was in engineering school we had FORTRAN...so something like Solidworks 2006 is a miracle.

I think moving from AC to SW was like moving from the board to AC. It's a huge leap forward. I can't get enough of it!

Well after 14 years of drafting tables and two dimensional AutoCAD, I finally took a five day training class for Solidworks Pro 2006. Here I sit at work supposedly designing packaging for a retail company.... Look what I modeled instead. It is a 17"x8" wheel. Chip Foose, eat your heart out!