cygnusx1

If you ever heard a set of triples on a heavy decel without exhaust pop you know how sweet that baffle sound is. Â MSII, in particular my revision, does not have fuel cut on decel. My revelation was that making it richer eliminated the backfiring in the exhaust, not leaner.

 I have had the decel exhaust popping for a long time.  With the stock motor with 2.5" exhaust and then with my turbo motor with 2.5" exhaust, and even on my Triple Weber motor with 2.5" exhaust.  Well it seemed to be common knowledge that popping in the exhaust during decel was because of fuel or exhaust gases igniting in the exhaust system.  Common explanations were that the engine was too rich during decel and fuel cut should help.  Contradicting this, I read somewhere, while dialing in my webers, that there is such a thing as "lean condition pop".  I always thought that the popping was cause by too much fuel being dumped so I always tried to lean the mix during decel.  Well it turns out that by richening the mix during decel, the exhaust popping is much less and even goes away totally.  It worked great with the webers.  With a best lean idle established, I richened the idle volume screws about 1/2-3/4 of a turn each and the decel pop disappeared. I took the same idea to my megasquirt maps and added fuel in the cells used for decel and bingo, the exhaust popping during decel just about went away.  I find that maintaining 13.5-14.0 during decel minimizes the exhaust pops and back fires.   I hope this helps someone and sheds light on the decel pops.

Yes the horn contacts stay on the car when you take off the aftermarket wheel and hub. Â The factory wheel will work directly with those contacts.

I am not 100% sure what you are asking but the stock steering wheel slips over the steering column spline and tightens with a star washer and a nut. Â No additional parts are needed. Â Chances are the aftermarket wheel has an adapter that is on the steering shaft. Â You need to ditch the adapter but keep the nut and washer. Â Pictures of your aftermarket wheel would help us understand better if this doesn't answer your question.

Not the first time I've seen that. Â Nice though!

Fair enough, but the Nokia is unlocked and will take any sim card from anyones network. Â ATT or T mobile or Verizon or whatever... Â BTW buy more Apple products, I have stock in them! Â

I bought a high tech phone to use as a "laptop" PC. Â I bought the Nokia 5800. Â It has ALL the bells and whistles that a good laptop would have PLUS it makes phone calls. Â Two Cameras (front and back) front is for video calls. Great GPS with Garmin WiFi Awesome sound for Music listening with or without head phones. Multi Network compatibility Expandable memory bluetooth What else do you need? Â What does Apple give you?Â

One thing to note about GPS speed. Â Unless the GPS unit has a built in correction for descent and ascent angle, the speed will only be accurate when you are on level ground. Â Boats are obviously always on level paths. Â Hills cause significant error on the GPS speed readings. Sine Cosine Tangent.

Injector test mode enabled in Megatune?

 My air filter is in the same location as yours.  I have an intercooler and a TO4B at 16psi.  I see between 90 and 110 F  just before the throttle plate, on an 80 degree  day as far as I can remember.  I need to do a datalog to get exact numbers.  Â

Hook it up to an MS Stimulator board.

 Sitting in your car at idle.  Put your toes on the  right corner of the brake pedal and hold it down medium hard.  Then rock your ankle and heel down on the accelerator until the motor revs up.  Sit there doing that over and over until it feels natural.  Then go do it while the car is rolling in a straight line with just enough brake force to slow you down slightly.  As the car coasts down, keep revving it with your heel.  It's not hard. Here are some of my favorite photos that I "developed" from the RAW digital images.

 There is a spec in the FSM as to how long the system should hold pressure, if I remember right.  Of course, after it cools down, who cares, as long as the system does not drain back you are good. I diagnosed my fist starting issue with my 280Z back in 1991 or so.  It suddenly began cranking excessively before startup.  I did not know the EFI very well yet.  Eventually I pinpointed the check valve in the pump.  I subsequently went on to learn, understand, and memorize the function of the entire system from the FSM and the sparse Internet sources at the time,.  I even have a printout of which resistor INSIDE the ECU you can change to effect which fueling function.  I can tell you that when it's all working properly, the hot start issues are barely noticeable in a NYC Summer.Â

<p> Here is a video from in Clive's car. Â The session ends with a spin. Â I will let Clive explain it. Â From watching the video, it looks like too much rear brake bias that reared it's ugly head. </p><p><br></p><p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/Comprezzed">http://www.youtube.com/user/Comprezzed</a></p>

Clive went up to the new track up here in Monticello, NY with PCA. Â I went to hang out and took some snapshots. Â Videos to come soon. More pics here: http://dcerutti.smug.../12908726_4Kihg

I remember that shifter bike. Â It was KOOL. Â John, If I tried to relive my youth, there is no doubt I would kill myself within a few days.

  I will get flamed for this...In my turbo car at 16psi, I am running cheap factory spec Champion plugs with the "over-kill sized" electrodes ground down and side-gapped.  I use EDIS-6 spark so maybe that's why I can get away with it.  The Weber 240Z is also running stock Champions with a Mallory dizzy.  I intend on going with some NGK's some day but both are running great as is.Â

heh yeah I'll have to look at them closely to see if they had the metal "tongue" latch inside them like the originals.

 Oh remember those 4130 Chromed 3 piece Red Line Flite Cranks? oh and the Aluminum "PK Ripper" frames!  It was our eye candy back in the day....that was all out of reach for me.  It took me years of begging and borrowing to buy the GT frame and fork to convert my Huffy.

Yes, the Huffy had a grip shifter on it blue grips and I had gold anodized aluminum bars.  I got it at Caldor's. They cracked at the neck clamp and snapped off in mid air from metal fatigue!  I don't know how, but I landed safely with half a bar.  Incidentally, I had three bikes stolen from me, growing up in the Bronx.  One was a break-in, one was knife point, one was ripped out of my hands.  All before the age of 12.Â

Nice! Â

Who can get the most videos of people coming up to your Z and saying "I used to have one of those" or "My ------- used to have one"....

My first BMX bike was an electric blue Huffy with anodized gold parts that had a 3 speed front chain ring. Â I broke every part off the blue Huffy, as I got better at tricks, and jumped it higher on the ramps. Â Eventually every part was replaced including the frame which became a 1982? (gotta check the serial number) GT made in Santa Ana. Â I won a few AMA races on this bike back in the day, and it saw it's fair share of 1/4 pipe action, and ground freestyle, but when I got my drivers license many many years ago, the bike just hung in the garage. Â Today, I took it out for a spin after at least 20 years. Â After three minutes of bunny hops, endo's and sprints, I was winded! Â I used to put about 100 miles a week on it without a hard breath. Â Man, I am getting old. Â These motorized things really kill us! I am trying to inspire myself to get on the bikes again. Â I need the exercise. Oh yeah, before foot pegs were invented...we wrapped "40 grit" around the rear chain stays and used it to do some tricks. ----Real ol' skool! The wheels are Mongoose Drilled rims. Â I also have a set of Zytel ACS-Z rims with slicks for it. Â Anyone remember those? Â You could bend them like a pringles and the wheel would snap straight back without losing its true!

Actually pressure in the rail will raise the flash point of the fuel and will help. Â Without pressure in the rail your tendency to vapor lock is far greater. Â I wrapped my log style fuel rail and offset the heat issues by about 15 minutes. Â Still all the same symptoms, only 15 minutes longer to happen. Â Of course the heat off the turbo doesn't help.

I'm not saying there isn't another way to bandaid the problem but Nissan engineers knew what they were doing....fuel rail blower, hood vents, and heat shields. Â Also make darn sure your fuel rail holds pressure after shutdown for at least 45 minutes. Â There is a check valve on the fuel pump exit. To the OP. Â What symptoms are you having? Â We all missed the fact that you didn't include any symptoms in your post. Rough running? No startup? Long cranking?Â