cygnusx1

Hang in there Scottie. Â Condolences for the loss of your dad.Â

Find a local paint shop and have them mix you a custom color to match your car. Â You can then have it loaded into rattle cans or buy a CO2 cartridge gun. Â Usually also sold at paint shops. Â If you know your color code then you can just order paint cans online. Â I used http://www.automotivetouchup.com/

Pretty cool article that should be a sticky here. Â Not only about cam selection but about boost, porting, flow, and other commonly asked questions.

From this: to this, with rattlecans: I fully expect it to outlast the couple of hundred dollars I saved...

Is the car going to be a show car? Â If not, paint it rattle can unless you can get it done with guns/paint for $150 or so. Â I wouldn't spend any more than that personally, unless it was going for full resto or show car.

I believe all the S30's have bias valves of some sort.  Some on the firewall and some at the rear.  All of them are set safely for street driving and will work at the track.  We assume the rest of the system is in good working order and uses appropriate pad/shoe selection.  None of the factory ones are adjustable.  Adjustable setups are generally reserved for track cars and for people who like to pretend they have a track car like me.  I did a few track days and I am glad I went with the Wilwood setup from AZC.  It fills in where I lack specific performance driving skills.  Besides, who doesn't like gadgets?Â

http://www.streetfire.net/video/top-gear-season-14-episode-06-in-bolivia_2043650.htm

Yes, very nice. Â But I highly suggest doing some sort of 3rd brake light as well. Â Our tails are so low that the SUV driver on the cell phone with screaming kids cant see that low. Â After getting rear ended, I have added the 3rd LED strip for the center. Â I firmly believe it's a must on our low Z car if they are driven in traffic.

35psiÂ

   An aside about brake bias.  I use the base Wilwood package from AZC with the bias valve in the center console.  Playing with the bias has been very interesting and revealing to Jon's point.  I have set the bias so that the front locks before the rears in a maximum braking situation.  Then I will get the brakes hot, and need to dial rear bias out because the rears seem to bite harder when they are hot, with the pads I run.  In the rain, you can run a ton more rear bias because you are not able to get as much weight off the rear tires due to the limited grip.  That is a reason alone to upgrade the set in a balanced way.  In reality, there is no "perfect" bias setting that works all of the time.  On the street, it only matters that the rears don't lock first in a panic stop.  Stock brakes are UNDOUBTEDLY designed that way.  ABS is king.  Â

If you just lift the handbrake lever a click or two, it probably won't trigger the starwheel adjusters to move to the next notch...at least I never had that issue with hard STREET driving. Â I never tried it on the track myself. Â After my turbo swap I went out on Limerock with the stock brakes and good pads and shoes. Â In the last session of the day I boiled the fluid coming into turn one. Â I used the runoff, down shifted and made it around the next couple of laps with hardly a brake pedal left. Â I was probably overusing the brakes as a newbie on the track but regardless, I don't EVER want to fear that my brakes are my limit, of all things, not the brakes!

 There are more than one persons that use the handbrake lever to compensate for heat expanded drums.  Try lifting the lever a click or two and see how the pedal feel changes. Â

In racing, size matters. Â You need to have a place to dissipate heat. Â Although stock brakes do work well, they quickly become too narrow a path for heat to flow through. Â This is especially true when you start talking about 300hp+ Datsuns on a race track.

Well, a lot of the noise from an S30 comes from panel vibration. Â After all vibration on a panel equals noise. Â I do agree though that for super effective damping, you need MASS. Â Lead is the best and the worst.

 Stiffer body of course,   but you cant fix that very quickly for $7.00   Besides, with a stiff suspension in the car, and the NY suburbia roads,  the panels rattle by themselves.

Some local shots.

OK This report I have is from the stone age of the Internet.  I can't get my scanner to work and I don't know who published this information but it was someone with an electronics background for sure.  There are photos showing the locations of the resistors but they are not of high quality.  I believe that the resistors are all labeled on the board, so ID'ing them may be easily possible by opening up the ECU.  Resistors are located on both sides of the main board.  The article was written about the generic L-Jetronic system. Here is a summary of what was done: A CD player was used to simulate an ignition signal and a scope was used to read the outputs of the ECU while resistance values were tweaked. 100hz signal = 3000rpm. Resistors and what they do: R103  Low RPM Dwell limit  for injector pulse/ smaller R = higher limit on low-rpm dwell.  R106 rev-limit smaller R = time of pulse decreases and rev-limit raises R237 & R239 voltage swing compensation during cranking R616  off idle and Post cranking enrichment  - works with coolant temp sensor R758  fuel cut-off speed R621 Off idle enrichment max smaller R = more rich R624 Off idle enrichment decay speed smaller R = faster decay R306  timing of post start enrichment larger R = longer enrichment R617 Post Start and Temp enrichment amount smaller R = less enrichment WOT switch (TPS) fixes enrichment to about +9% R345 Injector opening time compensation Injectors open with about 4amps, after 0.5ms current is held at about 2amps by R408 3 Notches  in the AFM wheel gives about a 2% change in lambda. This is take from a website that existed in 2/26/1997. I do not have the author's name. http://proffa.cc.tut...24775/mods.html Or you can try your luck here: http://web.archive.o...24775/mods.html http://web.archive.org/web/19970805035446/proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124775/Injection.html

That's nuts. Â That could kill you.

It really does not matter much.  Pick a number you like, and have them quote the payment for that number, YOU decide.  My Turbo 280Z was at $8000 but I upped it to $15,000 after the rear-end hit, to be safe.  My car is not far off "value wise" from yours.  I looked at what it would cost to buy another Z like mine if I needed to.  Not the cost to build, the cost to buy, plus about 10% of wiggle room.

I have paperwork in one of my "280Z" folders that contains detailed information about physically swapping out various resistors inside the ECU, and what effect they have on the various functions of the EFI. Â If I get my scanner to work, I'll post them.

 That should flow plenty of air judging by the size of the hole.  It will at least cool the engine bay, hopefully even help the radiator.Â

Better late than never! Â Keep us up to date.

Nobody here to call for help unless I need help opening some beers.  They all show up for that.  My only reliable helper is my dad.  Of course if I really need help, Clive or Joe might come over for a fee.   In my younger days it was all about getting together to work on cars.  Now, not so much.  Life takes us nuts, smashes us, and spreads us like peanut butter.

I would call DIY and get a new sensor or upgrade to the dual sensor type.

Congrats! How hard did you have to yank on the steering wheel to get them lifted?Â