cygnusx1

You can just get a cooling fan, controller, and ductwork from a 280ZX. Â It's ugly but it works.

 Time for a larger external wastegate?Â

 Sounds great and looks really fast too!  Here is a test drive on my recently restored 72 with triples.  In this video, they were jetted as I bought them from an unknown condition.  28mm chokes, 225mains, 170 airs, and F11 tubes  on 40dcoe's.  I have since upped them to 32mm chokes with 150 mains and 190 airs.  The motor is a stock L28 with headers.

Cool stuff. Â I had some, what I thought was surge...and maybe it was, so I loosened the heck out of the BOV spring and no more flutter at all. Â Granted, I am only running 16psi boost on a smaller turbo with a completely different setup. Â Just thought I would throw in my coins.

 David, kudos to the kids for sticking with it.  Besides responsibility, technical knowledge, and finance, it's important that they grow their attention span, to rise above todays "short span" world.  And remember, the paint ALWAYS looks better after assembly.  I think it looks great even if you say it's not perfect.  Â

Don't say I never gave you anything. CARFAX Vehicle History Report on JN3MS37A1PW203282.pdf

This is an event taking place not far from my home. Â They are filming a series for VS Television. Â http://www.robinhood...art/pc/home.asp Unfortunately, it looks like they need some PROFESSIONAL advice on how to safely run an AMATEUR event! Â They were seriously risking peoples lives with this poor layout. http://www.corvetteb...od-rally-crash/

Around $1800 without shingles about 10yrs ago. Â I am sure they are a lot more now.

I considered containers because they are so secure and permanent and expandable. Â However, I am sure my neighbors would run right to town hall and dig up some code against it. Â The codes around here are pretty strange. Â I am bending the law with what you see here, but my own general rule is that if it's "quaint they won't file a complaint." Â Â The main shed was a kit and the roof I added is just stick built 24" centers and the posts are PT 4x4's in post concrete about 16" deep. Â The main shed has two parallel 6x6 runners underneath the floor frame supported by blocks. Â They are set right under where the car rolls, to bear the load. Â The shed is elevated and thus remains quite dry inside. Â It's actually better than the sweaty concrete floor in our detached main garage. Â A metal container would sweat ALOT around here. Â You get cool nights and then as the sun comes over the ridges, you will see steam coming off the trees and exposed grounds in the morning. Â The metal containers will take a while to come up to daytime ambient temp and would probably sweat like a soda can for a couple of hours. Â Sometimes when I take the Z out from my main garage in the morning, the entire car fogs up inside and out. Â Not a pretty sight to see 35 year old Japanese steel covered with beads of dew in and out. Visions of rust!Â

Tony, when the corporate fist won't let me install my Opera browser, I just copy my entire Opera folder from another machine and copy/paste it anywhere on the blocked machine and run the program right from the folder. Â No install needed. Â Opera seems to work fine that way...if you like the Opera browser. Â

My property has a 1.5 car detached garage and it's just not enough for us. Â Building a larger garage is not currently an option but the two Z's need to be sheltered. Â It's a bad idea to keep a Z exposed to the elements out here. Â It is very often 100% humidity in the Summers with wet grounds, and stagnant air. Â In the Winter it's snowy and can get downright nasty. Â So I built a 10x18 shed a few years back to store the 280Z but with the 240Z taking up the main garage, our other cars sit outside. Â I decided to build a little more shelter off the shed. Â I graded the area and filled with 4 yards of crushed stone and framed out a 10x18 covered area. Â Eventually I will close it to all the elements. Â Right now it's just rain, branches, snow and hail protection for one of the cars. Â The shed is very tightly sealed against rodents as well. Â My worse fear is that the rodents will make a home in the car parked under the roof...and they will. Â I will need to turn it into a rodent-tight shed pretty quickly. The rafters are lagged into the shed roof and secured with hurricane ties. Â We are pretty sheltered from straight line winds by the steep terrain anyhow.

 What part of "HybridZ" did you NOT understand??  Â

Nokia 5800 baby! Â Been Qik'ing for a long time already....

Judging colors with a digitized photo that was taken with an unknown white balance, in unkown lighting, then displayed on an internet browser that may or may not be calibrated to standards, and finally illuminated on a monitor that was not calibrated, viewed in a room with random lighting.....must I go on... Pissing in the ocean.

Don't EVER vacuum up gasoline with a shop vac!   It's basically a giant carburetor with an ignition source built in...heading to post this over at Mythbuster's cause I'm NOT going to test this one myself.   Edit: Apparently they busted this myth.  But I wouldn't try it.

 I tried using foam balls a while back but they affected power above 4000rpms.  However, it should work as long as you don't notice significant power loss at high RPM's.  Check the foam to make sure it won't dissolve in gas.  It's a shame proper filters for DCOE's are so darn pricey.  Market opportunity for sure...but on the other hand, how big is the market.Â

 I have taken my inner tie rod joints apart and inspected them.  There is a spring loaded ball inside them.  Maybe you can take them apart to see if they are worn or if they can be repaired somehow.  It's possible just the spring is shot, but if there is any wear, don't use them.  A rack rebuild service is available from rockauto for just over $200 that should include the new inner joints.Â

 Ben, there are plenty of people making real good power and reliability with megasquirt on even totally stock turbo motors.  You are having a problem because one or more variables are wrong somewhere, either in the hardware, software, or greaseware.  Now you proved that you can make power with the blow through triples, which is much more rare nowadays than what you have now.  That said, you know the blow through setup like the back of your hand and maybe for you, that's the way to go.  But the evil may come back to haunt you if you don't figure out the problems you are having now.  It can be done and there are plenty of folks that will back me here.Â

Great points Tony. When I installed my head last year, just for kicks, I ran a bit of 400 grit lightly around the oustide rim of the combustion chambers in a circular motion so you could just begin to see the swirl marks. Â I don't know if it was wise or not, but I did it to give the head surface some "teeth" to bite into the fire ring a little better. Â I also de-burred all the machined edges and polished them up a little with a rouge stick.

 Absolutely, timing in the low load areas can be pushed to increase driveability and throttle response but better to trade timing for boost.  I still don't understand why your motor only took 12psi with a de-tuned version of my timing curve though.  Here is a theory.  Your N/A cam and retarded cam timing significantly shifted peak torque into a zone where my maps are geared for low load driving.  So here you go driving at peak torque in the lean cruise areas of my maps.... and boom.Â

Yeah I used moly lube on my ARP fasteners and Mobile 1 on the stockers. Â What about "break-in oil", which is what Ben used on his stock fasteners? Â How does that compare to motor oil for achieving proper bolt stretch. I'm not familiar with the properties of the BIO? Here is the thing. Â We are trying to figure out why the head gasket blew at only 12psi. Â Ben claims a steady 11:1 AFR and a timing curve less aggressive than mine. Â The static CR of the motors are the same stock L28ET. Â I did not know that Ben's cam timing could be off, and that he was using an N/A cam and a P79 head. Â Obviously this throws up a red flag. Â Besides obvious failures of an injector, hot spots, bad gas, warped head....why would the gasket fail like it did at 12psi. Â I know that no two engines are alike, so maybe his motor just can't take the heat like mine does. Â I can't imagine the L28ET being able to accept only 12psi with a proper AFR and advance curve. Â Something HAS to be wrong somewhere. Â Right?

Vimeo is an awesome site. Â You can see what filmographers and directors can create, when they aren't quenched and bounded by corporate cages. Â There are TONS of great films on Vimeo that would be too specific for mainstream, yet exceed mainstream media in every way. Great link.

Keep em coming! Â I know you have more Z's up your sleeve

OK you used my timing and VE maps to run your motor. Ben: Turbo@12psi F54 dished pistons P79 Head and P79 N/A Cam with possible cam retarded by one tooth. 440cc supra injectors Me: Turbo@16psi F54 dished pistons P90 head and turbo cam 440cc ford-bosch injectors That could explain why you blew the gasket at 12psi....NA Cam and high EGT's due to retarded cam timing.

 If you are truly running 11:1 AFR's and your ign timing was dead nuts at 23@12psi, you should not have detonated with a turbo piston motor, and P90 unshaved head.  Unless: 1)An injector leaned out. 2)Timing jumped around. 3)You had a hot spot in the combustion chamber (sharp edge) 4)You have an internal head cooling issue. 5)bad gas 6) lol Cam timing. Dynamic Compression Ratio???? OR Your head was not torqued to the proper specs and the gasket "slipped".  You told me you used assembly lube on the head studs.  I am not sure if that is the right way to go.  Moly grease should be used, which will give you accurate stud tension to nut-torque ratios.