cygnusx1

I cannot consciously leave a Z out there, fully exposed to the elements and rodents.  I have decided to enclose the shed roof.  It will be made rodent tight.  It should be finished and trimmed out by the middle of next week.  I have been working on it all this week. I have some ideas for doors but I will accept any input from you guys. I won't pollute your minds with my door idea so give it a shot if you have an idea.  The issue is that there is a pretty steep grade (10% or so) exiting the shed and the doors would not fully open if they were to swing outwards.  The bottom edges would stub into the hill.  I cannot re-grade the hill or the car will not drive in or out smoothly.  There is also an uphill grade to the left, so a full height sliding door won't work either. BTW, I began my trapping routine about two weeks ago, and have caught 17 mice so far and my cat has caught 2 additional.  Sorry PETA.

It looks like Burton isn't even using the factory splash pan. I like the core plug idea for the dizzy hole too!

Michael, so you must know Dr. Drela then, or at least his work?

Family safe website fellas, relax it's just a mannequin...and a fine one at that.

When you have a seat  back that high, you need to bolster it with something aerodynamic.  Preferably something between you and the seatback with dual cushy aeropods.   See fig. 1dd Fig. 1dd

 OMG, I am going to have nightmares of Engineering school tonight.  I have the recurring nightmare at least once a year, where I didn't show up for any of the classes except the first one, I don't even know where the classroom is, and I need to take the final exam. I've had my degree for 20 or so years now, and it still haunts me sometimes. What a ****** those days were. I am having flashbacks already.  I agree with the smaller school advice, and maybe slow down the course load if you can.  No rush.  The job market isn't going to open up the gates anytime soon anyhow. I'm not sure if this is any consolation but I struggled with my first two years of ME school (Manhattan College) with the basics, but when the real engineering courses began, my grades took off.  I enjoyed the engineering way more than the prep stuff.  The basics just didn't hold my interest, so I spent more time playing with cars instead of studying. Â

WOW, WOW, WOW, WOW, and did I say WOW! Â I would put EVERY smilie icon that we have if I had more time.

  I just came in from my garage where I was working on my 240Z's fuse box.  I see that your third fuse on the right, socket, melted out of the fuse box also. It's exactly what I was working on 15 minutes ago.  I was able to repair mine, but I will eventually upgrade to the modernized fuse box.  Your Z is looking good.  Â

My red 240Z was originally silver with the red interior. Â However the original owner changed it all to red over black. Â

More recently my fav color has shifted to 918 Orange.

 You can calculate the size of the expansion tank that you will need, with the following info. API factor for gasoline is about 0.00069/degreeF

The new Nissan Gallery in Yokohama? Â Or are you at one of the older galleries looking at the leftovers.

 I love the Nikon high end stuff, but I argue that Canon and Panasonic get better results in the compact cam arena.  Take a look at the Panasonic FX Lumix series of cams. Â

I checked the shots for GPS data. Â Only found you used the Nikon Coolpix S3000. Â No GPS data but nice pics. Â Â

Yep, a real beauty.

New water pump and thermostat in the 240Z.

Mine did, and still does. Â The Z's can out perform their fuel tank.

Three lefts make a right.

Opera v10.63 red squiggles and all! Â It was around before Chrome and Firefox were even conceived! Â I love mouse-gesture-surfing. Â Try it.

Really nice job. Â Body looks nice and straight, good ride height, and awesome wheels.

I had to sell my 2006 240SX because it got ZERO traction. Â Nevermind the snow around here, the thing struggled with just the dang salt and sand on the roads in the Winter, and the rain was deadly. Â However, you at least, have a good excuse why the wheels broke traction, RB25. Â It was a solid feeling car with great steering feel and lots of bells and whistles. It needs some TLC so you can go abuse it some more.

 Yes, spend the extra time to get it spotless, you WILL NOT want to try to chip off the POR to do it again later.  That would be tough.  Here is a neat trick with POR-15.  Pour a small puddle of it onto waxed paper and lay a plastic cup on its side into the puddle.  Let it cure and them take the little model you just made of spilt black paint and put it on the hood or roof of a buddies car.  Make sure you film their reaction!  It's the painters version of "plastic poop". Â

 When I did my door (first body work/paint I ever did) I was amazed at how much my nasty paint surface could be rectified with wet sanding.  I had serious orange peel (rattle can) which was easily knocked down with 1000 wet and block.  It polished up quickly with the buffer and compound, and looked totally glossy and smooth.  After that door, I had had enough.  I can't imagine how tired you must be from all that work.  Looking good though.Â

I have always had the strongest bond with POR15, over rust just like you have on your floors right now. Â I would be mostly worried about the bond on the clean metal. Â I suppose that's what the metal ready is for. Â I used the MR and the POR-15 engine block kit on my semi rusty block, and it looks good as new almost 8 years later. Â The paint feels hard as ceramic.Â

 The Weber DCOE's have manual "chokes" on them but they are not really chokes, they are "starting circuits" that many people don't connect to the original choke lever on the console.  In the colder climates, it certainly seems to be making a difference. Â