cygnusx1

...kind of anti climactic isn't it? No fire, no explosions, no bullets flying...

I'm breaking the rules....guess number 3. Stuck inside the socket.

The bar is being raised!! Great stuff.

I went this route for a few reasons: 1) Megasquirt Megaview takes up my radio spot in the center console. 2) I dont want to mount permanent speakers and amps, all over the car in places that are a compromise in audio quality anyhow. 3) I want the entire audio system completely, quickly, removeable for track days. 4) I already had the source device, my cell phone with 3 days worth of tunes on it. 5) I don't feel like adding even more wiring to the car.

OK Guess number two. I bet they were in the last place you looked!

Right where you left them.

Well, the speaker bar can be had for around $120, 300w power inverter about $40, Phone....well who doesnt have a cell phone or an Mp3 player already?

Actually, the rim would apply enormous pressure on the inside of the tire if you had zero PSI. You would need to find the contact area of the rim to the inside of the tire. Hire a mathematically oriented mouse and install it in your tire casing with a ruler and some small peices of paper.

I really am surprised....the gold wheels look great with the orange paint...than again, anything would look good with that gorgeus paint! Love the spook, and the rear lip too.

I think it's not so much the boxer-4 sound as the sound of the turbo charger mixed into it. It just sounds "wrong", "pissed off", "don't mess with me". Kind of like a top fuel engine struggling to idle. Like a nearly slayed dragon fighting for its last breath. You know it sounds wrong, but, you know it can kick your a$$. Yes, an acquired taste for sure. I attached clips that I shot at the Wellsborough, PA rally back in 2004 or so... Turn up the voulme and see what you think. To me it's just radical to here something like that echoing through the woods. Blue-WRX.zip White-WRX.zip

Without AWD, it would probably be quite slower than the WRC Car...at least on gravel. I am a fan of the Subie Boxer sound. I am also a fan of the LSX sounds. This one would have me confused.

google cache?

The exit of the fuel pump should be a built in check valve. At least the factory pumps had a check valve directly screwed into the pump exit. The damper is not a check valve. I would leave the damper in place if it's not leaking, although it's not absolutely needed. Take your old 76 fuel pump and unscrew the check valve from the pump outlet. 10 bucks says the check valve is stuck open. I take Paypal. The regulator does not hold pressure in the system when the sytem is off. The system is sealed at both ends. At the pump it's sealed by a check valve. At the other end it is sealed by the shut injectors. When you turn off the car, the entire fuel system stabilizes to a hydrostatic pressure and should hold for at least an hour. Mine actually increases by about 4-5psi after a hot shutdown, as the fuel begins to heat up from latent engine heat. Mine will bleed down to zero in about 6 hours, probably due to hose clamps and fitting micro leaks. I run the factory damper and another damper on the fuel rail. It's probably overkill, but you want smooth pressure at the injectors for the best tunability. Try to get a glycerin filled gauge that will dampen the needle movements. If you use a regular gauge, the needle may eventually snap off from the shaking.

I remember when Clive built mortal drivers. One revision later, he builds immortal trailer queens? That's progress...or is it? I hope Clive's boss isn't reading this thread! LOL.

Rookie of the year: EvilC!!

...or pull the handle away from the door panel, and grab the back of the clip with a small needle nose plier and yank it out.

Last time I tried TS, it kept locking up my laptop. It looks cool while it works though. I'll have to try it again and see if any updates made a difference.

Well, the speaker that I bought originally didn't cut it. I sounded good when parked or driving with the windows up, but with the windows down, it just became background noise. So...I happened to be at Radio Shack and saw this monster 32" speaker bar. It is a ported 2.1 system with a remote, and a total of 160 watts. It came with wall mount brackets. It's really designed for a main speaker in a living room under or over a flat screen TV. It's powered by 120v AC and is designed with an iPod dock (which I dont need). I happened to have a 300watt inverter laying around, so I hard wired the inverter behind the passengers seat. Now I have a place to plug in the speaker bar. I ran a mini jack wire, under the carpets, from the speaker bar to the dash where my phone mounts. I made some nice mounts in the hatch for the speaker bar. It sounds great. Tons of bass, and great highs. I would give it an 8 out of 10 on the hifi scale. Very clean sound and a tight bass. Plenty loud. I have about 3 days worth of Mp3's on my phone and just play the list randomly. When a call comes in, the music stops automatically and I talk on speaker phone. When I hang up, the music resumes. NICE! The whole system is easily removed if I ever take it to the track. I also plan on tethering the speaker box to another location in the hatch for safety reasons. Note the valve cover bolts! Note that if I slide the unit to the left or right, it can come off the brackets for easy removal. It can't slide by itself because there are blocks on each side that need to be removed first (not shown). http://www.memorex.com/products/product_details.php?PID=50731

No, I just run it in electric mode all the time. The coolant loop was eliminated long ago. The idle drops more quickly without the coolant in cold weather but it still keeps the idle up long enough.

Yes, the tach works as it always did. I use the "air bypass valve" for cold fast idle with MSII. I did not tie the valve to MS. It just gets powered when the car starts. If the car is cold, it will idle fast. I had a few issues in the beginning with MSII not booting up, but I think those issues were due to my old laptop doing strange things, and some faulty relays I was using.

Thanks for the ideas and backing on my thoughts. I don't think I suffered a loss of compression overnight. So I am going to drain off some fuel from the bottom of the tank so see what it looks like. I was reading that if the gas was purchased from a cheap source, it could be less refined than it should be, and may feel a bit oily. In fact when I took of my injectors, I thought the fuel felt a bit oily. I didn't wonder about it too much because I had added a bottle of dry-gas and a bottle of injector cleaner. So I can't say for sure that the fuel was oily, or that the additives made it so. Whatever the case may be. The engine wants A LOT more of it to idle right. I doubt the wideband went bad because loading an old map yielded the expected AFR's. Today, I will try to use up a tank of gas.....or transfer some of it to containers. I should make the gas station pay for my time lost here!!

While I initially thought the WBO2 was going loony also, I loaded an old map, and it gave me the same idle AFR's I was getting a year ago. 12.8. Which used to idle great in this engine. Not anymore. Since the gas tank swap I am needing 10:1 (bumping up the Ve values at idle) to idle nearly decent. This is the first tank of gas since the tank was repaired.

That aluminum is way stronger than the tabs on the original Z rails. Not to mention the bolt head would probably pull through the Z rails before the aluminum failed. If I had to guess, I would say that the allen cap screws would bend and may shear before anything else. If I hit something that hard....not too worried about the seat at that point. I have to put my faith in the seat belts...or a harness and roll bar in the near future. The uppermost aluminum plate, is bolted directly into the stock BMW tap holes.

Maybe I have a tank of bad gas!! That would explain everything. I filled up at a station I never use, and one that probably does not move a lot of the 93 Octane grade either. It's probably old gas. I still have a full tank....drain it or drive it? Could bad gas require that decrease in the AFR's to run more properly?

No upholstery work needed with these seats.