cygnusx1

For those that want to see how the shop did my repairs plus some additional rust repair...here is a gallery of pics. It was pricy, but I didn't pay for the damage repairs. Only the rust repairs. http://dcerutti.smugmug.com/Cars/Bump-in-the-Road/9986458_q9ndG

Great points and I appreciate all the tips!! I am going to "fine tooth comb" this issue once the driving season is over. I had tried older maps which were labeled as "runs great" and still had the problem so I don't think it's an .msq setting. I think it's some physical change that happened over night, so to speak. Ever since I have had MSII I have had to idle in the mid 13's AFR to get smooth, non-popping, idle. I think it's fairly common for the low compression turbo motors to idle that rich. Needing 10:1 all of a sudden, on the other hand, is absurd. How can I pinpoint an ignition problem? When I pull each plug wire to observe the sparks, they don't miss a beat. The miss is felt in the motor, but heard in the exhaust as a "puff". Is there a way to tell if the plug misses a spark? Datalogs do not show any missing. I hear/feel the miss no matter which sparkplug wire I leave off. Telling me that it is propogating in all the cylinders at random. Side story: I had a problem in my 90 Honda once, where the motor started misfiring, and then it wouldn't run anymore. The computer was throwing no codes, and there was NO spark at all at the plug wires or plugs! Took me a full day to figure it out. I even changed the ignitor and checked all the components to the specs. Turns out that the sparks had burned a tiny hole through the nose of the coil and the spark was jumping from the coil directly to the negative coil post! So the ECU thought everything was fine because the spark was going out. It had no idea that it wasn't getting to the plugs. I found it when the sun was setting, and I saw the spark jump to the post.

Yes I checked the timing with my light. It hasn't changed. Niner good idea, I'll try messing with that to see if it does anything. Would poor atomization require more fuel for a smoother idle?

http://www.racechrono.com/ O-60, 1/4 mile, track mapping, split times, lap times....internal or external gps based, FREE!

Yeah I agree....Nokia way better tech specs than the Iphone. My 5800 is awesome. Softopz, look up RaceChrono for the S60 operating systems on the Nokias. It is really cool software. GPS based track layout, lap times, split times, 0-60, 1/4mile..... http://www.racechrono.com/ I think I'll make a thread about this. But yes that innovate iphone stuff looks awesome.

Clive, I have a carbon fiber one if you're interested. J/K

Excessive wear to injectors from more fuel pressure? That's a longshot. Besides, the fuel pressure is stock unless you are at boost. You don't boost for very long. Yes, it is bandaid, in this day and age. Proper long term solution is more expensive/involved...other option is that you can pick up larger injectors and: A)tweak the factory AFM to compensate leaner for when you are NOT on boost 95% of the time. (gambling on a mystery AFR curve) <---applies to an FMU as well but with an FMU, when you are off boost, the fuel curves remain stock so it drives like a factory car. B)Get a standalone system and tune properly. (ideal) The FMU is to avoid steps A and B for either: A)Cost B)Simplicity....lol. EDIS (module, coilpack, 36-1 toothwheel, and sensor) will run your car without Megasquirt at a preset, fixed, ignition timing. In order to control the timing curve, there are two wires (sheilded) that go from EDIS to MS and then MS can simply control EDIS via full timing maps that you create. The spark is HUGE from the EDIS. It's really a nice setup. I don't think Mike had the original idea to Turbo an N/A L series motor. That is ancient history. However, technology changes and MikeATRPI is one of the most recent to do it here at HybridZ and has the most up to date experience. I think there are threads and plenty of people running 8-9 compression Z motors with turbos around here. It works. It's just that you are always one step closer to detonation. General rule is that you get more power by lowering compression and raising boost than vice versa. Great questions by the way.

Maybe I missed this somewhere, but how does the Human body survive in a zero g environment for a lifetime, or to the completion of the trip? I mean the craft can spin to create a centrifugal force, but is that the only solution? I will die, saying that "wireless power transmission" is the next BIG evolutionary development. I think that is the hurdle. Either that or extremely compact portable power....yeah I know Nuclear...but I mean BETTER than that by far. The closest I have seen is those lasers that lift an object into the sky...I saw it demonstrated about 10 years ago. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_propulsion Here is a newer development: http://www.physorg.com/news6247.html

As far as the rrfpr goes, if you get a good one like a begi, it works very well. Its onset is adjustable so yu can get a pretty decent afr curve. Mine was very consistent and I was able to run pig rich at 15psi boost if I needed to. On stock turbo injectors. It certainly would be a great idea, however to follow in Mike and flatblack's footsteps if you are converting from N/A.

jeffp wins "Search Button User of the Year" award!

L28ET or L28 will work for you. BUT if you find an entire L28ET or running ZXT, you get EVERYTHING you need to do the swap, PLUS, the lower compression ratio. I bought a running ZXT for $530. All I did was clean and paint the motor before the swap. Then I sold off parts of the ZX to pay for the extra add-ons. Either way will work. The main difference between the two motors, is water flow around the cylinders, and compression ratio.

I just added the link to Vimeo. Thanks. Much betta'

Congrats. I am almost three years into my human project. Forget about sleep for a while, unless you got a good one that sleeps.

Yes, that is why I drive within VISUAL limits. When I can't see far enough ahead to stop in time, I slow down. It's very easy to get into trouble with a Turbo Z around here...and I don't mean with written law. I mean law's of nature!

Nothing too crazy. Just a nice drive with a few bursts of energy mixed into it. Car runs nice. I hate when youtube smushes my videos! You can see how twisty and hilly it is around here. You see why I need AWD in the Winter....GTR? On Vimeo Youtube

Sorry to throw in a curve but you can easily make your power goals with the stock turbo motor and fuel injection. Add an intercooler, FMU, Walbro fuel pump, turn the boost to about 12psi with a home-made MBC, and ramp the fuel pressure to about 50psi on the fmu. You should make about 230rwhp. You can go up to about 250+RWHP with this setup around 15psi boost and 65psi fuel pressure. Cost is about $600 on top of a stock turbo motor, if you do your own install. BONUS POINTS if you also do a nice downpipe and exhaust for another$300-$400 Need proof?

Before you spend the money, give the "fuel line in the ear" trick a try. Just listen to all the barrels at first and see if you can hear the differences in sound. If you have a halfway decent ear, you can tune them.

RIP GC. Great thinker. Whether he was right or wrong, he used his g#@d#$m brain for something, which is a lot more than many people can say these days.

Yes, that's our Odyssey in the background. Official support vehicle.

Not a bad upholstery material if you want to pick up whales.

I am on the second tank of fuel, manually backflushed the injectors with compressesd injector cleaner in a compressor hose, the car still needs 10:1 to idle smoothly. It runs fine at all other points on the VE table, with the O2 sensor reading exactly where it did before, matching my AFR table. For some reason, the fuel must not be burning well at idle. Either the injectors, are not atomizing properly, or something else has effected the combustion process ONLY at idle. At full song, 15psi boost, 5000rpm's, I am making my AFR's as called out in the AFR table 12.5:1. I cruise around 14.7 fine. Idle is a smooth but stinky, 10:1. If I back out any idle fuel, the car idles and lopes with tons of misfires. Mystery. Yes, I know....check compression. Would that effect only idle and all cylinders evenly? The problem started after a fuel tank flush and reinstall by a radiator shop. I am tempted to send out the injectors for a cleaning and blueprint.

Just beware that within the past few years, ACT re-tooled and redesigned so that some older pressure plates wont fit with newer sprung clutch discs. Ask me how I know!

Sorry, I just re-installed mine. I had to remove it for a while because my cold air intake was down there. The ebay one looks nice. It sure does look alot like the one on my 76 but I bet the 240Z one is much shallower due to the straight lower radiator support.

No. I'm in Putnam County, NY...I was just being facetious. Although, I have been in Bucksnort, and have worked in Chattanooga.

These are my previous wheels: 16x7 Panasports with a little + offset. 1" Drop Springs. Currently: Sportmax 16x8 Zero Offset