cygnusx1

Wait until you get them debugged, bedded, and at operating temp! Looking good. Don't forget to test your bias before you need to make an emergency stop. There is nothing scarier than the rear wheels locking first when you are heading towards impending doom.

You are probably considered a newb there. I gaurantee that they are watching your work like a hawk. Do a consistently great job and the old timers will begin to recognize your skills. Then they will begin to teach you tricks. Obviously, you are passionate about it. They will notice and begin to take you under their wing. Meanwhile, see if you can do some after hours projects, or stay late/early and apprentice with one of the better guys. Good luck. My dad was a tool and die maker/machinist for 40 years. CNC is not my specialty because I am an ME and work more on the design end of it now. There are definitely books about it, but hands on is the best, and you are on your way already. Congrats. PS Go ask an old timer if they have a copy of the Machinists' Handbook. That will usually get their attention.

http://m.apnews.com/ap/db_12678/contentdetail.htm?contentguid=NRuojwKy

If we were working with machinists tools rather than carpentry tools.... Paul, I'm sure you use a 25foot tape measure for measuring all your head work, and port and polish with a hammer and chisel, right? LOL. The car does look great. The red and carbon theme carries right through the whole car perfectly. Clive should be an exterior designer!

You will be better off using two rows wired together. The minimum bend radius on these strips is about 1/4" but it's like a "ribbon" so half of the lights would be on the wrong side.

Ins company doesn't care what year the parts are that you are going to use. They are going to give you a check and you can do whatever you want with the money. Get an independant appraiser or a body shop that restores classic cars to do the appraisal. Use that estimate to pull money from his insurance company. You can choose your own shop to do the appraisal and anyone can do the repairs, or you can just keep the check.

Wow, that is the ONLY screw in the Z that I have never touched! I'll have to put on my socks and go out to the garage and get some tools. Never even noticed it before! It mght be easier to get the whole mirror unless you find someone willing to part out a rearview mirror. If it's just a bolt or a shoulder bolt, you might look at http://www.mcmaster.com

Maybe if a few hundred of us chip in.... http://www.ferraris-online.com/pages/carintro.php?reqcardir=FE-333SP-039 Darn, I was about to call and it got sold!!!

I'll be there in the PM. Got a big car show in the AM. We will need a grinder, hacksaw, drill, metric taps, hammer, torch...drinks....food. My fenders were pin straight for six years after the paint. Then came the turbo swap...now they look like a mogul run at Killington. When they get bad enough, I'll cut some fender louvers into the fender tops like the old race cars had.

Yup, Sublime IS faster!! I can feel the G forces in the video. I was getting pushed back into my desk chair! Try a little experiment. Lower the boost or raise it and see if the creep-to point changes also. What will that tell you? I have no idea, but if someone else can finish my thought...

Wow how did that get past me? It rains in Cali?

I am deciding on weather to rebuild my turbo, buy a new one, or send it out to get rebuilt. Is it very difficult to rebuild the center section of the T3/TO4B, non BB, non water cooled turbos? I have read some procedures, and it does not seem difficult. To me it seems like one of those things that might be easy to do, but easy to get wrong as well. Is a rebalance required after a center section rebuild? The turbo is leaking minor oil but I don't think it's too far gone. I like the turbo and dont feel the need to upgrade at this point, so I am favoring the rebuild or "have it rebuilt" idea. Does anyone have a shop they can recommend first hand that rebuilds turbos so I can get a quote? Thanks!

Drive much slower or get much narrower tires. Use a light touch on the brakes, gas, and steering. I found that having AC is mandatory to keep the insides of the windows from fogging. I rigged up a separate AC switch in my 76 so that I can engage the compressor in "fresh air" mode, which is much better at defogging. In fact, I can turn on the AC compressor in any climate setting. Warming up the damp outside air and then pulling the moisture out of it on the AC evaporator is a great way to defog.

He didn't lie. He forgota de'tail. De'tail'wind.

Hey, 60 is a lot closer to 100 than it is to 0! Just a small stretch of technical data...

The 77 and 78 clocks were probably the best of the bunch. The worst were the 75 and 76 clocks. I don't think any of those survived. Rumor has it that they are rebuildable by swapping out some electronicy things. Last time I tried that was in electrical lab in Engineering School about 18 years ago. It didn't work. The 240's are almost purely mechanical. I wish I could see the gears all the time. Maybe a clear face? LOL.

240Z mechanism into a '75-'76 280Z dead clock. Yesterday, I took a 240Z mechanical clock apart and got it all cleaned out, oiled, and keeping time. Today, I took out my broken electro-mechanical '76 280Z clock and gutted it. With some minor cutting and gluing, I was able to attatch the 240Z mechanism behind the face of the 280Z clock. So now my clock is a 76 with the mechanicals of an early 240Z clock. It looks just like the original 280Z clock but it ticks pretty loudly like the 240 clock. This is the first time in 20 years that I have had a working clock in my Z. It's about time. Sorry I didn't take photos of the swap but if you want to try it, I can probably give you pointers (no not clock pointers). Fairly easy swap. Tools: Hacksaw, 8-32 nuts (3x), crazy glue, small screwdrivers, 75-76 280Z clock, a working 240Z clock, soldering iron, tiny metric screws(optional).

Funny, I worked on the same thing today! I even adjusted the bearings like you. I cleaned it with parts cleaner, alcohol, wd40. I am calibrating it before I try to swap it into my 280z housing.

True Jon, I remember being able to put my car in gear and still roll it back and forth a few inches due to driveline play. I don't know what the norm is, but most Z's do have a lot of driveline slop.

Just like the cheap OBX versions, the gears might be installed backwards. Look for the OBX thread.

There are some hot rods that I have seen that have tail lights that look like they are behind the paint. In other words, there are no seams or pockets, the paint is continuous right over the light and the lights shine through the clearcoat. I am not sure how it's done or what it's called. Anyone? I think that's what you want to pull off here. Just like Darius's car but the headlight corners are clear, but look like they are seamless, flush with the paint, with zero trace lines. Here is a somewhat poor example:

Check out the nice save at my local AMA airfield last year. I happened to be filming this cool Mustang that was somewhat poorly built. Joe, the pilot is not the owner or builder. He is just one of our best pilots, and gets to maiden some of the other guys planes, like this Mustang with bad gear! Nice save Joe!!

My heart skipped a few beats when he was approaching for landing. Not a good feeling when that happens to you with a nice plane like that. Good save though.

Mine were pretty sloppy when I cleaned out all the grease too. I was concerned. When I put in new grease and installed them, you would never know there was slop. I am not sure what the tolerances are but I was surprised that they are quiet with as much slop as I had in them. Of course, there is a clunk in the drivetrain but it has been there since the car was like new. I have changed EVERYTHING in the drivetrain, and the clunk has never changed. I can't blame the sloppy CV's because the clunk was there with the U-joints as well.

A completely sealed module or well ventilated will work. Well ventilated will probably get dirty and require internal cleaning regularly. Sealed (airtight) will be more difficult but will not get dirty or foggy as long as there is little or no moisture in it the air when it's sealed. Partially vented with a small hole will probably get enough moisture in it from daily temp swings to cause internal fogging.