cygnusx1

That statement is WRONG. My first car was an Alfa.

I'm watching it now...freaking awesome...the beginning so far is like a mirror of my life.

I just accidentally stumbled on this website. Looks really cool. http://www.lovethebeast.com.au/site/?page_id=6&siteArea=trailer

Have you ever seen the episodes of The Brady Bunch when Bobby finds the Tiki in Hawaii?

I am bringing this thread back into the daylight because it is so informative and we have a lot of new people here.

I use this one before the fuel rail. 40 microns and supposed to flow enough fuel for 1000hp....although I find that hard to believe since it is so small. It certainly supports 300hp in my car, I can confirm. I should probably shoot for 5-10 microns though? No? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8130/ I used hard line to AN compression fittings to plump it into the stock hard lines.

Caption contest!!!!

Beautiful!

I love this one! I am going to crop it a little just to my liking add some saturation and a frame. I think this would work well in black and white too. That's going to make you a nice poster! Hope you don't mind me tweaking it. I will delete if you want.

It's worth every hour of time it takes. Mine have been pin straight since I did the shimming. Hot or cold.

Wow very lucky to have walked out, what a close call. The car can be rebuilt on another chassis.

Well yes, establishing a reference point and then reading the proper direction of the deflection is critical of course. There is no right way to do it. It depends on which side of the rotor you measure from, and which side you are adding shims.

Yes, in my experimentation...0.003 was smooth up front. I think out back you can get a way with a little more....I suspect.

If your rotor is only out about 0.005 at the outer edge, you can probably live with it and not feel it. If you can't get it closer by shimming, then turn it, while mounted to the hat/hub and torqued if it bothers you. Cutting that little off, won't make a difference in the performance. It is a strange thing that shimming it makes it go the other way. Is the shim causing it to "bellville" or "cone" for lack of a better description. Try shimming the bolt, AND the two neighboring bolts on either side with half the thickness of the center shim if possible. A shim at the hat bolts, definitely mulitiplies the runout at the outer edge. I would think a 0.002 shim would fix right around 0.005 at the outer edge. Personally with 0.005 I would mount it and test it. I think it will be OK, especially in the rear.

I have been thinking of rigging my 20 ton log splitter for spindle pin pushing. Of course I have no plan to pull my pins anytime soon. It's just that I need something to think about while I am out, in the chilly weather, splitting firewood. Anyone else think of cool things to try with a log splitter? A 20 ton, hydraulic, motorized, spindle pin puller would be da bomb! Riot shield mandatory!

At least some money fell out of the sky. Please give the penny to Evan. He may need it! Wow.

Subaru never fixed my leaky fuel line under the intake manifold, that was dripping onto the turbo. They said it was not a safety issue and that it would not be fixed outside of warranty or under a recall. Subaru issued a TSB and made some customers pay to fix it, and gave some customers grace, depending on their mood, and the dealerships discretion. There were about 3000 complaints filed to the NTSB by WRX owners. I drove it leaky for years and hoped it would burn someday. It never did, but when my son was born, I had to have it repaired due to the fumes in the cabin. Subaru charged me $400 for the TSB repair. It was all because of loose hose clamps on the fuel rail under the intake manifold and a poor rail design. It leaked from about 50K miles to 120K miles when I had it fixed. This guy probably got a better deal than I did. 2,625 posts! AND COUNTING --Burn it dammit!!!! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131755 Oh BTW I hounded the NTSB and they told me that the case was opened, and closed. No further investigation was being made. WOW.

The meek shall inherit the earth.

Cool plane...I love the WWII warbirds, even if they are "hybridized".

Very good...but, the fact that this is not obvious to today's population, is sad.

Is it possible that the wasted spark is igniting left over gasses in the chamber during the valve overlap cycle? That would explain the puff I hear in the exhaust when the "misfire" happens. The problem started with the second re-install of the fuel tank, and the old set of plugs that always ran fine. The problem continued with the new plugs, of a colder range. (I changed to see if this new problem would go away) I think I went from NGK 7's to 8's and saw no change in the issue. As far as the LC1 goes, it still reads the same AFR's as it did when it was new with the corresponding archived maps I tried reloading. So I can say that it is reading as consistently as it was when I installed it. I can also confirm that it is idling rich at 10:1 because of the smoke/smell I get when it idles for a while. I have boiled this down to a few things: 1)Fuel Delivery issue at idle (air bubbles in the lines?) 2)Funky injector(s) (dribbling or bad atomization?) 3)Compression loss at idle (leaky head gasket or crack somewhere?) 4)Ignition miss (which I cannot duplicate with a test light or visual spark observation.) 5)Wasted spark is igniting exhaust gasses (longshot?)

Or just stick with lowering springs if you are only going with a 1-2" drop. And spend the money on good struts. But I agree, they do look really nice. Maybe you can add a nice strut to those...I don't know much about their construction.

Yeah the Buell's are pretty innovative. That would be really cool on the inside of a car's wheels!

Yeah, Yeah...all I needed to say was all of his bikes are "NOTABUSA" so it doesnt matter.

Geez I can't even begin to list them all. I am not a bike connoisseur but I know they have mostly Sport Touring stuff and a couple of road/trail machines. Suzuki Concours, Honda, Kawi, BMW...and of course a few Buell's.