cygnusx1

My turbo glows all the time. Almost anytime I park it I open the hood. At night it's always at least a little red. Is that correct? I dunno. It's been that way on and off depending on the tune. Nowt my AFR's seem dialed in, and my timing seems correct, so I guess it should glow a little. Well, what temp does cast iron visibly glow? 900F and up.

The video shows the speedo going from 40 to about 75 mph in under 3 seconds. I didn't even keep my foot in it the whole time. It's like 40-80 in a blip of the throttle. I can try to upload it in a different format. BTW: This was with NO NOS!! Windows Media Version.zip

Clive, for the hatch mount plates, I have a large peice of 3"x3"x1/8" cold rolled steel angle iron that when can carve the plates out of. Or I have a chunk of 1/4" aluminum plate we can use. Either will work. I figure with a hacksaw, drill, vice, hammer, tap, about 15 minutes per side with some cleanup time on the bench grinder and a can of paint. The plates need to be about 3"x2" with two tap holes and two clearance holes. They need about 15 degree bend in them which is easy to do on a vice with a hammer.

I just drove my friend SRT8 Jeep. It was in the shop most of the Summer getting loaded with custom heads, cams, intake exhaust, supercharger, and tuning. It made 679whp on the 50-shot NOS. He is running 8psi with methanol. Here are some pics and a video clip of the speedometer while I stepped on it at about 40mph. I ran out of room on the road very quickly. The front end gets very light when the pedal is all the way down! VIDEO: 40mph to almost 80 in about 3 seconds. P1040785.zip

Fill it back up when it's half empty. If it's too full, it will spit the water out of the overflow into the overflow tank. You are running an overflow tank right? If not, you need to add one so that the water can get sucked back into the radiator from the overflow tank when needed.

Thanks for the heads up. My car rarely sees moisture and I have no hood vents but I will definitely apply dielectric grease on all the connections including terminals and fuse blades.

Wow, nice "fake L28" swap! Can you sneak a Datsun valve cover on that head for a total sleeper? We all know that Mercedes copied the L28.

Rear suspension. I have Tokico springs that lower the car 1". They are too short when the suspension is at full droop by about 1/2" so I zip tied the springs to the upper and lower pans to keep them from ever jumping out of the pans. I used to run my rear Illuminas around #1 or #2 on the street but last Fall I switched to #4 and installed LCA camber bushings. Since then, I have noticed a metallic thump under very specific road bump conditions coming from the right rear. I checked and double checked all possible pivots and mounts of the rear suspension. Tonight, I noticed that with the car jacked up, the rear spring pulls the upper spring pan down from the upper isolator about 1/4" or 1/2" at full droop. I put a jack under the rear LCA and jacked it up and down to feel the slop. The play is between the bottom of the isolator, and the top of the upper spring pan. I feel it on both sides but more on the right rear side. It has been a long time since I had the rear struts apart. Is it normal for short springs to unload the upper spring pan from the isolator under droop? Also, setting the Illumina to #4 may cause the rebound to be slow enough so that when driving over an abrupt dip in the road, the upper pan gets unloaded, pulls away from the isolator, and then bangs back into it with a clunk, as the suspension reloads/rebounds? Is my hunch probable? What's the fix without going through a major overhaul, unless it needs one? The clunk is almost gone when I have a passenger. I suspect because the right rear suspension is more heavily loaded.

My only concerns are the set screw terminals for the wires. I soldered the wire tips before tightening down on them. Is that acceptable, or will they lose grip over time? I suppose if the connection was poor, the area would get hot due to resistance, and would show up as a voltage drop.

I have a 2002 WRX with those in it. I am not sure if they would fit in my Z but I can comment on the seats. VERY comfortable and pretty tight bolstering for a factory seat. They feel better than the newer model WRX's. I think they have airbags in them so be careful.

I must say that I was not breaking new ground here. It's just one of those things that you plan to do for 10 years...before you actually get to it. lol

With two SCOSCHE brand distribution blocks from Walmart. They cost about $15 each and I also bought a misc. pack of Maxi fuses for $5. I mounted them to a peice of 4.75" x 4.5" stainless sheet. I screwed that plate to the tap holes that held the front fusible link box.

That is one HOT looking Z. A new standard is being set!

They were still working with all that insulation peeled off! I guess after 33 years, the electrons know where to go without even having insulation!

Now this freaks me out a little. ...even more than Zappa.

I used that pic because I don't have any of my own pics of them handy. I do have pics of them somewhere in my archives but searching google is easier than searching my storage method. BTW, my hands are much better looking than that one! Me and George can be hand models. The whole story is true. Here is a picture of me: Here I am before the surgery:

I keep finding baby snakes in the house. They are black with a little pale yellow ring around their collar. They are about 1/8" thick and about 5" long. I usually get one or two in a season but this year I am up to five. I just hope I don't get up in the middle of the night and step on one with my bare feet. That would freak me out a little in the middle of the night. Fortunately, nobody here is afraid of snakes. I just take them out to the woods and release them. These are the fellas: Mom must live in the crawl space.

Cool boom box! It's even period correct for the 70's. That's right on target for what I was looking for. Here is the solution I came up with. Got a new phone (entertainment center) which I needed. Nokia 5800 with a T-mobile pay-per-minute plan. I only use the phone part of it, for emergency and day to day family coordinating. http://www.nokiausa.com/find-products/phones/nokia-5800-xpressmusic I love the phone. Bluetooth, GPS,Wifi, MP3, Videos, camera,.....all basically for free...works without a phone plan too. Hehe, higher resolution than the i-pood. Then I picked up this Altec Lansing Blade. For a steal $47!!! Brand new. I thought the deal was too good to be tru but it arrived in 2 days and works great! It's a bluetooth amplified speaker box that is only 1" thick. I can velcro it right to the hatch carpet reflecting sound off the hatch glass forward. The phone sends music right to the speakers, wirelessly! All I need to do is plug in the speaker box with one plug. It's not going to shake dust off of the car but it sounds good enough to hear over the exhaust note when I need some tunes. http://www.huetronworld.com/bluetooth-speaker-black-altec-soundblade.html

The car turned out great. There is one thing that needs to be redone however. While trying to get my hatch to align, it looks like they pushed the hatch seal deck down a little and warped it. The original paint on the deck cracked and they left it like that. I am not sure if they even noticed it. You see it when you open the hatch and an avid Z person will see it right away. I am going to have him fix it. Hopefully it wont take too much pressure to get him to repair it. Here is a shot of the car today after I hit the front half(original paint), and wheels with the clay bar to get off any overspray.

It's about what you see in the photo. Of course the tails are over exposed in the camera. It's not as bright at the mains but better than nothing. It is certainly visible against the tail lights. For comparison, the LED strip is about as bright as the regular driving tail lights. For the price and cleanliness of install, it was worth it. One thing that you don't see, is that these light up instantly compared to the other lights. The lag in the incandescents is very noticable when you step on the pedal. You could just as easily do a double row of these, or get a longer strip.

Here yo go! I finished reparing the rear wiring harness and wedged a vacuum cleaner pipe against the brake pedal.

I spent two hours sitting inside of the spare tire well, huffing solder smoke. Good thing I had my new phone with mp3 tunes on shuffle! :evil: :evil: Thanks to Jasper donating a rear 76 harness, I was able to repair using all original wiring.

Good catch. I wired it temporarily to the battery to test it out before I ran the wires in the body. Plus, I didn't have an assistant to step on the brake pedal.

My car is back from paint jail after being rear ended at a red light on July 5th. You may heve seen my "Audi Eat Your Heart Out" thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149652&highlight=audi+eat+heart I used the same lights, but in red. I simply peeled the backing and stuck it to the inside of the rear hatch seal after cleaning with alcohol. They run on 12volts directly so I will wire them right to the brake lights. The lights light up MUCH faster than the original lights. They are definitely eye-catching....although the kid that hit me didn't even see the red traffic light.

That is a great deal. I wish it was available when I did mine. Can you post an installation photos or instructions? It might help some people visualize it on the car.