Xander

When I read this I felt a little . You are right (in my case at least). My odometer reads more than 10% to high. (195/65-14 + inaccuracy of the meter itself). I guess I never wanted to think about that when I calculated my milage. But I still get more than 23 miles per gallon

I really don't know much about tuning a carb with a a/f ratio meter. But concerning a/f ratio meters: I realy like the ones by Defi http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2471316919&category=46100 They are the only ones that I know of that have an analog display ( needle and scale). The rest are just flashing leds. I am not using one myself but I dont think that one can be better than the other. Just buy the one that looks the best to you. They are all simple voltage meters. And none of them are very accurate in displaying you real a/f ratio. They are however very good at indicating if you are runing rich or lean. How rich or lean is can not be told with these meters.

I'm sure this has been said to you before but don't you think it's time to megasquirt that thing. Than you can really be able to tell what's going on with your engine. You are already running on EFI so the swap would be simple. I hope you don't think I'm trying to push you into megasquirting, but reading that you are already going to swap in a different ECU made me think about it again.

The results are in. I was cruising yesterday at an indicated speed of 120 km/h. in 5th gear my dutycycle was 15%. In 4th gear it went up to 17%. Dutycycle is the amount of time the injectors are open divided by the amount of time they are closed (times 100). There is a direct correlation between fuel consumption and dutycycle. When you compare the real injection pulsewith in microseconds then you have to take rpm into acount. I didn't look at the injection times (sorry) but my guess is that they are almost the same in both gears. (I'll check today). One more thing: Shift early if you are going for milage. Don't go over 3000 rpm. I found that I can still accelerate comfortably if I keep it below 2500 rpm. another one more things: About peak torque. At 3000 rpm I am already at 90% of peak torque. So the diffence in efficiency is easily offset by the increase in rpm.

Having a megasquirt system in my car I can read the duty cycle of the injectors in 4th or 5th gear. cruising at around 3000 rpms in 5th the injectors have a lower duty cycle than cruising at the same speed in 4th. This (IMHO) show that in 5th the car is using less gas than in 4th. even if 4th is closer to peak torque. There was a cartest program here in the netherlands where famous people had to drive around a test track trying to get the highest milage. They averaged around 16 km/liter. There was one guy who had research how to drive economical and he got something like 22 km/liter and got the fastest tracktime by far! The trick according to him was not to brake to much. and if you accelerate to like 100 km/h (about 60miles/h) use about 2/3 off full throttle. because thats where the car accelerates most effeciently. hmm... food for thought.

The pintle cap does not affect the spray patern. It is just there to protect the fragile pintle itself. I use GM injectors with the pintle caps removed. I just have to be very carefull when Iplace them in the manifold. I have made a injector tester myself. Just an old fuelpump regulator and a switch. This way I have tested the injectors and checked for equal flow. So I know that the spray patern is a nice 30 degree cone shape even without the pintle caps. The caps are also important for sealing the injectors to the manifold. I am using the stock rubber rings that sit inside the manifold pocket and just placed the injectors in them. The sides don't seal well agains the injector but the rubber rings are firmly pressing against the injector body itself, so no air leakage. Am I making any sence??? Sometimes its hard for me to judge if my posts are getting my point across. Because I am not speaking/typing English as my first language. I do try to keep a dutch/english dictionary handy when I am posting messages though.

OK guys, I'll get at it. Thanks for your input.

Hi, I was looking at my intake that I am going to use on my turbo project and saw this. The bumps in the intake runner are from the injector holddown mounting screws. There seems to be plenty of meat for the screws even if I remove these lumps. Can anyone think of a reason not to do this?

I will upload my msq file here on hybridz download section. It is not really tuned yet but is running well. And my ignition map is not made yet. I am still runing on mechanical advance in the dizzy. So my map just shows all zeros. This way I can keep driving the car without to much trouble. I am taking it one step at the time. If I have my ignition map ready and I have locked my dizzy than I will post it here on Hybridz.

I DID IT!!! I am also running on megasquirt&spark. I used a distributor from a 280zx. The one with the module on the side and used that to get a signal to the MS&S unit. The Fidle output is connected to a 4 pin HEI module as per instructions above. I still have the mechanical advance inside the dizzy so my ignition map is filled with just zeros. This way It still uses the mechanical advance and I can play a little with settings. I had some problems though: Ad first I tried to use a 4pin HEI module to signal the MS&S unit. This worked but only above 2000RPM. Below that, no spark. Maybe the leads from the pickup coil inside the dizzy to the module were to long? or was the resistor value to high (1k). It works now with the origonal module. I can't advance my dizzy enough. It is at maximum advance and I am triggering at 40 degrees. Maybe I can skip al my wires to the next post on the dizzy and then retard the lot until I'm at about 55/60 dergees. Thanks moby.

Just for your information. There is a guy on Ebay that is selling preassembled megasquirt units. They look better that the two I build myself. The price is reasonable considering that it takes a couple of hours to asemble. Great for those who want to go megasquirt but are afraid of soldering it together themselfs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33553&item=2466352840 I see a lot of new members here lately so this link is for them. http://www.megasquirt.info/index.html

today I installed the distributor woth the transistor. It cured all my problems. I think the axle inside the old points style dizzy was bend. The conversion to pertronix didn't help either. But now I'm a happy man again. I can finaly, after a year of frustration, rev to 6500rpms without a glitch. thanks frank for the dizzy and thank you all for your input.

Hi, I have converted my points type ignition to a pertronix unit. Now I have only heard good things about there units but I stil have the same symptoms. checking with a timing light I can see that above 4500 rpm the timing is jumping around. At lower rps it looks rock steady but at higher rpms the timing is fluttering around with about 10 degrees. I took apart my distributor and there is no play on the shaft. everything looks normal. Can it be that my driving gear is worn or lose? Today I got a transistor type ignition from frank280zx. I'm gonna try that tomorow. maybe that helps.

Wow, I see sme great cars here. My best experience was with a Lancia Thema 8.32. It is a basic 4 door saloon but the builders at lancia thought it would be fun to put a 2.9 liter ferrari V8 in the front. I have never really liked ferrari but this car made a believer out of me .

You already have an output that is on when the engine is running namely the fuelpump output. But you already noticed. I am going to get a 12 volt valve to use as an air bypass. They can be bought cheaply here in holland for LPG fuel systems. It is a basic on/off valve. But since it is controlled by the MS unit (MS&S acctualy) it is a lot more accurate then the auxilary air valve thing. I have one on my car right now and sometimes when I start the car after only being parked for a minute the aux valve has already cooled enough to cause my idle to jump above to 2000 rpm. Not damaging but just annoying (sp?).

owned now: Datsun 260Z megasquirted and running very well Mazda 323 econobox, crocked right front wheel, water leeking into the hatch, bad locks allround, muffler rattling. But starts every time though. have owned in order from first to most recent, '86 Nissan sunny coupe '88 daihatsu cuore 660 cc automatic '89 nissan sunny coupe '95 Chrysler Voyager van turbo diesel '86 Pontiac Fiero GT '84 mazda 929 estate '93 alfa romeo 164 (very beautifull car) 2.5 liter twinspark engine Thats 10 years worth of cars.

now really a conversation but a funny reply found on a pontiac fiero forum: Topic: Can I put 86 doors on a 87 fieroGT? reply: Thats a lot of doors on one fiero. LOL

If you want to know if someone is a geek try these. I knew the answer is 42. http://www.iol.ie/~murraycp/colour/nerd.html http://tests.student.com/nerdtest.php http://www.lentil.org/robl/nerds.htm http://www.angelfire.com/mo/MontyPhython/nerd.html I guess nerds know how to copy and paste because all the test are similar. Still fun though. I usually score about 30%

Do you use the stock fuel pickup from the tank? I had a lot of problems there aswell. I ended up welding some 3/8 npt thread on the tank. This helped a lot. there is a picture of the tank in my album. There is also a filter between the tank and the pump. This got gloged up fast since there was rust inside my tank. I removed the rust and coated the inside with a epoxy resin. No more filter problems for me. With these mods the fuel pump has a lot easier life and there for no noise.

I am using the msd pump on my megasquirted 260Z. I used to have it in the back near the tank. It had the same effect as you described. I think it has to do with cavitation (sp?). The pump is not pulling enough fuel from the tank or even is pulling as little air with the fuel. This can cause the humming. I now hav a low pressure pump in the back that feeds a little surgetank under the hood. I have the pump mounted below the fuel level. It is very quiet now. no surging at all.

LOL. I read socks the first time

thanx guys, I have found a guy here in holland who has stripped a euro 260Z and got the window of him. So I'm good to go. Just have to wait for the weather to clear up.

Yeah, we Dutchies know how to put a decent website together.

I bought my 260Z from a guy who was going abroad for 3 month. Two weeks before he went he heard that his workspace had to be cleared. the car was not more then a set of boxes filled with parts but everything was there and the body had almost no rust. He was very sad to let it go. His loss my gain . 6 months later and it was back on the road I payed about 1100 euros for it. that was about the same in dollars.

Sorry Nismo I missed your question. As Speedracer said a diode is basically a one way checkvalve for electronics. And it has a fixed voltage drop of 0.6 volts. U can use this when you want to up the voltage to the battery. A internally regulated alternator has a sense wire. The alternator will try to keep the voltage of this wire at about 14.4 volts when runing. Usually the sense wire is a battery plus. But if you wire a diode inline with the sense wire, you can up the battery voltage by 0.6 volts.