Xander

Wow, I can actually buy a whole alfa 164 for the money he wants. (no joke) I have bought them in the past for as little as 100 euro's. Finally something that is actually cheaper to buy here in holland than getting it from the states. Any one want to trade a 2 mm steel headgasket for one of these manifolds?

probably they called it junk. just like the rest of the people that ever worked on a fiero. come on.. 2.8 liter v6 with 135 HP that is just stupid. The v6 fiero has 6 injectors so it is port injection. the 4 cylinder fiero was tbi. fiero's do have some usefull parts though. the seats are very good. and it has all the sensors you will need for a megasquirt setup . the TB's show up on ebayu some times. but you are probably better off going to the junkyard.

ok, here a new idea. I have worked on pontiac fiero's a lot in the past (don't ask). A throttle body of a v6 fiero will directly bolt up to a carb manifold! the TB's are cheap. I was thinking of using the base of a injection manifold with the injectors and welding the runners of the carb manifold to it. then just use 2 fiero throttle body's. The TB's come with TPS and idle aire controll. I believe that the TB's are something like 55 mm each. that should be plenty.

here you go: Fiero are not very good cars. they overheat and are underpowered but the seats are very good.

carefull with that radiator fan. It pull a lot of amps (close to 30A). Though it seems that you got the less common two speed fan. That radiator by the way has an trans oil cooler build in. nice. I used to work with fiero's a lot. I have a set of fiero seat in my s30. very nice

here's a nice one.

don't know exactly how fast my car goes. My speedo doesn't go beyond 240 km/h

no one beleived me when I said that these seats would work pretty well. I know the Fiero is generally a POS but those seats are awesome. they fit very wel and require only light modification to fit. I used the stock 260Z rails and bolted them on the Fiero seat. Then I only had to slot the boltholes and it bolted right in. I would really recomend these seats. I did put on a new seat cover though.

Maybe you should do as I did. Simplify the system. Connect the main wire from the alternator directly to the battery with some decent gauge wire ( via a 80A fuse) and connect the sensing wire directly to the main terminal on the alternator. because you have a decent connection straight to the battery there will be (almost) no difference between the voltage at the battery and the alternator. I have a good 13.8 volt at the battery. I did not have a problem with run on using this setup. Also make sure your alternator has a very good ground. oh and tony, It was fun seeing you again and I am sorry that I was so F-ed up. I had the flu for halve a year (I thought) but it turned out that I am allergic to cats. Wendy has two of those bastards

sorry prox, I had laptop meltdown and all my settings are gone now. the car still runs and I am going to use my new laptop to download all my settings from the MS unit itself. But because I have a new laptop it does not have the required RS232 serial port. I am now waiting for my PCMCIA to RS232 adapter. apparently that is the best option to communicate with the MS unit. When it is up and running I will post the msq file but it could be a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Hi. I am using the same setup as you. A megasquirt (v3) and I use a techedge WB O2 sensor. What version of megasquirt are you using? I am on MS&S-E. You say that the AFR is jumping around a lot. Maybe you are not using it right. Are you using a linear output of the WB-sensor. I onces accidentally wired it up to the simulated narrowband output and it had the same symptoms as you discribe. Also in MS&S-E you can just set your target AFR table and let te EGO correction handle the tuning for you (within limmits of course). I use a stock bosch style fuel regulator. it will handle the higher intake pressure without a problem. you should hookup a fuel pressure gauge and have a look. You can buy them pretty cheaply of ebay. good luck the

don't you just love the metric system

I went to my local parts store and went through their drawer of axle bolts. (the ones on the end that keep your hub on). there where several cars that have the same thread size as a oyxygene sensor.

technically 5 watt resistors will not last because they have a load of more than 10 watts on them. use 25 watts resistors as sugested in the MS manual. or even better, use the stock dropping resistors from a l28e.

this would be perfect: It's a datsun/nissan laurel C31 1982. I have one similar to the one pictured. It has a l24 carbed engine with a 3 speed automatic. A solid rear axle and it only weights something like 1150 kg (about 2500 lbs). It would be easy to trim the weight down a bit because this car has electric everything. The brakes are the same as my 1977 260Z.

It looks like there system does not use an air temp sensor. I don't know how important that is. The temperature controled enrichment is just a minor adjustment so maybe it doesn't matter. It looks nice. I like the fact that it has idle aire control. I wonder how it compares to systems like SDS. Megasquirt is still a lot cheaper though.

I just remove the engine. In my workspace I have a electric winch on a beam above my car. This makes it very easy to remove the engine. I am also running megasquirt so removal of the wiring loom is easy aswel. The clutch is holding fine. I was at a track day three weekends back. I did about twenty hard launches and the clutch is working great. Just a small amount off judder when trying to slowly get the car rolling. definetaly (sp?) something I can live with. It was great to beat Z32 twin turbos with my old Z. they kept trying and trying. But in the end there were only 2 cars that I could not beat. Both were heavilly modified twin turbos. So all things considered I am very happy with the new clutch. I hope it will last a while.

I had to replaced my headgasket 6 times this year for various reasons. I am now using the felpro gasket with ARP studs. It is holding fine. I really doubt that there are oil pasages plocked since there are only 2 oil pasages in the block/gasket. On my felpro gasket they were both reinvorced with copper rings. The rest of the holes are water pasages and of course the headbolt holes. The oil drains back at the front and rear of the head. Not via any other holes in the gasket. Not all water passages are neccesary. I have heard that in later years some water passages were deliberately blocked to keep coolant in the head longer for better heat transfer. just use the felpro gasket and be happy with it. Lots of us have used them and they seem to work fine. I think that after oem nissan and copper headgaskets they are the best out there. I have tried oem and felpro and the felpro looks a hell of a lot better. Easier to remove too. I have also tried ROLL gaskets and ROCKS (sp?) brand. They were both a POS.

answer: they all have the exact same taillights. I wonder if the guys on that cleaning cart know this =))

OK after reading this threat I bought one too. I will probably be installing it next week. And the weekend after that I have a track day coming up. So I 'll be guinea pig number two. I'll let you guys know How it turns out.

I am using Wblin. In my first post I corrected it but you must have read it before I edited it. Megasquirt can be setup to use WBlin or SVout SVout has a range of 1.3 to 3.1 volts. WBlin has a range of 0 to 5 volt. WBlin theoretically has a better resolution. I doubt if it will be noticable. I read somewhere that you can adjust the lookup table for the NBsim output. I am thinking of rewriting it to be a linear "curve" between 0 and 1 Volt and afr of 14.7:1 at 0.5 Volt. That way my narrowband meter can be used to read the afr directly.

megasquirt needs to be trigger at least 5 degrees or soo before max advance . So you need to trigger about 50 degrees advance. as I understand it the stock system Tony used can not be advanced more than about 40 degrees. So you can never get full advance because you can't trigger the megasquirt early enough. Now remember that your CAS triggers ones every 60 degrees. With the new ms&s-e you just tell the system to trigger it 50+60 degrees = a total of 110 degrees. Normally megasquirt triggers like this. trigger1-->spark1-->trigger2-->spark2-->trigger3-->spark3 on the ms&s-e you get somthing like this. trigger1-->nospark-->trigger2-->spark1-->trigger3-->spark2-->trigger4-->spark3--> You still get a spark after every trigger only the two corresponding trigger/spark are further apart thus giving you plenty of time to get full advance. I hope this comes across, It's pretty difficult to explain in writing.

With the new ms&s-extra system you can trigger the unit at any angle upto 122 degrees. This way you can probably trigger it with the stock setting.

your right, Thats what I did. I wrote it down the wrong way around. Good observation! I'll edit it soon. midnightzxt: The run was from about 3000 to 5000 rpm. I didn't take it higher than that because the engine had only about 200 miles on it and I am still taking it easy. RPM and MAP should not match the TPS. TPS is at 100% = full throttle. Then rpm is rising at a steady state and boost (MAP) Comes on a tad later then the TPS rise (boost lag). As you can see at 3000 rpm boost lag is minimal. Nigel: quoted from the WBO2 site. thats why I don't use the WBVout.

in the diagram there is also a ground at pin 19 that you forgot or omitted for some reason. What are you going to use pin 25 for? I used shrink tubing around the pins after soldering them as an extra insurance agains shortings. but this Looks like good clean soldering to me. great work!