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hurmm I would want square.. but I would take 1 .. definatly

cant forget about me Alex..

um.. maybe the idle air valve open too much?!

he used to have a wicked L series build up.. he now has a 2JZ .. the cam specs are for a L series

yes i went back to hydraulic.. i am too lazy to change an entire head for now

So I am definatly upgrading my camshaft.. I want more power! However.. I was curious on how to build a camshaft based off my turbo.. I am looking for a cam where the turbo will spool up and build boost and the cam should come alive at the same time. Now for a Holset for example.. full boost is around 3,600 RPM (16psi) .. now how to match that with cam specs?! oh boy.. now I am getting lost. Z-gad developed his grind with a noticeable performance boost Intake 490 lift 276 duration Lift Exhaust 480 lift 266 duration 114* lobe center 44* overlap Elgin Cam Intake 480 lift 266 duration Exhuast 480 lift 266 duration 112* lobe center 48* overlap intake open was 21 degrees@50 and exhaust I believe if memory serves me correctly 72 degrees. Isky cam Intake 580 lift 290 duration Exhuast 540 lift 270 duration Lobe Center 114* Overlap 55* MSA Stage I (Schneider) Intake .460 lift 260 durations lift Exhuast .440 lift 250 duration MSA Stage II (Schneider) Intake .460 lift 270 durations lift Exhuast .460 lift 260 duration Schneider Stage III Intake 488 lift 284 duration Exhuast 488 lift 270 duration Lobe 114 RaceTep Intake 480 lift 272 duration Exhuast 480 lift 274 exhuast So it appears Z-gads grind is a bit beefier .. almost like a "Stage III" cam MSA would offer if they did manufactor it. But how do I go about choosing a proper cam build for my Z?

the timeserts were a bitch to pull out.. I hate them.. 3 out of the 12 came out .. the others were stuck inside.. I actually took a screwdriver.. and partially scored the threads.. so the lifter would screw on very snug and lift the whole insert out. LoL.. Jon I did not convert to a solid cam because of a time crunch.. I have finals tomarrow and my car is a daily driver.. keep in mind I have 2 spare P90 heads.. so I will throw on a solid P90 in the future with a very nice setup.. (evil grin) by the way.. the main reason I did this swap was to stop the annoying ticking.. cleaning the hydraulic lifters did the trick!! yeppie! and no more adjusting.. lol

Dave and Logan... take a look at this PDF file from Mitsubishi.. this describes how and why the vortex generators were implemented on the roof of the EVO http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/cor...004/16E_03.pdf

Alrighty... I went ahead and purchased the parts needed for the solid lifter conversion. I purchased the time-sert inserts.. and a spare P90 and I used the solid lifters. I soon found out.. after starting the engine up... that it sounded like a freakn diesal.. and yes everything was adjusted properly to spec.. hot and cold. Well here is one thing NO one ever mentioned about the solid lifter conversion. The hydraulic camshaft has a different shaped cam lobe.. and is designed to smoothly ramp up on the hydraulic lifters. When you use the solid lifters on the hydraulic camshaft.. the hydraulic camshaft "slaps" the rocker arm.. which creates noise and wearing of the rocker arms and camshaft lobe.. maybe more. (Thanks BRAAP for the info) This means you MUST use the solid lifters as well as the solid camshaft! MUST!!! But here are the pictures of the solid lifter conversion.. which is now deemed a complete and total waste UNLESS you convert to a solid camshaft.. This is a picture of a P90 SOLID head.. Hydraulic lifter on the left.. Solid on the right with the insert This is a picture of the HYDRAULIC P90a head.. notice the countersink in the lifter threading? This is why you need the insert.. in addition to the diff diameter in the lifters. I went ahead and grabbed my old hydraulic lifters.. and bought 4 little plastic tubs from Home Depot for $3.00. -1 tub was the disassembly tub and i drained all the oil in there -1 tub was filled with Toulene and i washed the parts for a few minutes -1 tub was also filled with Toulene but was the "clean" tub to remove any excess oil/gunk and was free from contaminants. -1 tub was full of Automatic transmission fluid I then assembled the hydraulic lifter under the ATF since it is a detergant, but is still able to lubricate the lifter so I dont have a dry start. (one note.. when you full the lifter up with oil, and drop the spring in, you can not push in the piston with the ball and spring built in. I used a small screwdriver to push the ball down onto the spring, which allowed the ATF to flow through the piston which allows the lifter pivot thing to slide down all the way) I started the car up.. it ticked for a few minutes and then stopped. Overall this was not the way I had hopped.. but I was able to fix the ticking problem and I learned that you CAN NOT simply switch the lifters. for more information on how to dis-mantle and assemble the hydraulic lifters, please check out this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115760 =)

Alrighty... I went ahead and purchased the parts needed for the solid lifter conversion. I purchased the time-sert inserts.. and a spare P90 and I used the solid lifters. I soon found out.. after starting the engine up... that it sounded like a freakn diesal.. and yes everything was adjusted properly to spec.. hot and cold. Well here is one thing NO one ever mentioned about the solid lifter conversion. The hydraulic camshaft has a different shaped cam lobe.. and is designed to smoothly ramp up on the hydraulic lifters. When you use the solid lifters on the hydraulic camshaft.. the hydraulic camshaft "slaps" the rocker arm.. which creates noise and wearing of the rocker arms and camshaft lobe.. maybe more. (Thanks BRAAP for the info) This means you MUST use the solid lifters as well as the solid camshaft! MUST!!! But here are the pictures of the solid lifter conversion.. which is now deemed a complete and total waste UNLESS you convert to a solid camshaft.. This is a picture of a P90 SOLID head.. Hydraulic lifter on the left.. Solid on the right with the insert This is a picture of the HYDRAULIC P90a head.. notice the countersink in the lifter threading? This is why you need the insert.. in addition to the diff diameter in the lifters. I went ahead and grabbed my old hydraulic lifters.. and bought 4 little plastic tubs from Home Depot for $3.00. -1 tub was the disassembly tub and i drained all the oil in there -1 tub was filled with Toulene and i washed the parts for a few minutes -1 tub was also filled with Toulene but was the "clean" tub to remove any excess oil/gunk and was free from contaminants. -1 tub was full of Automatic transmission fluid I then assembled the hydraulic lifter under the ATF since it is a detergant, but is still able to lubricate the lifter so I dont have a dry start. (one note.. when you full the lifter up with oil, and drop the spring in, you can not push in the piston with the ball and spring built in. I used a small screwdriver to push the ball down onto the spring, which allowed the ATF to flow through the piston which allows the lifter pivot thing to slide down all the way) I started the car up.. it ticked for a few minutes and then stopped. Overall this was not the way I had hopped.. but I was able to fix the ticking problem and I learned that you CAN NOT simply switch the lifters.

I have a spare T3 .. with very very little shaft play.. let me know.. I wont donate it LoL..but i guarantee this turbo is a good one

can I safely run the car for sometime with this setup? or will this kill the hydraulic camshaft and rockers?

Unbelievable.. stupid stupid hydraulic system. I am honestly about to go back.. clean the hydraulic lifters.. and install them. If not.. a new freakn P90 will go on.. this is crazy. gggrrroowwll.. Thanks guys.. I really appreciate your help with everything!

Well I am using a P90a that had hydraulic lifters.. stock cam.. stock everything.. i just added solid lifters How can I tell if I have a hydraulic cam?

Alrighty... I have a P90a head that has been ticking from time to time.. so I decided to convert to solid lifters.. I bought a spare P90 .. and the TimeSert or whatever inserts... I installed the new solid lifters and began adjusting the valves. Now I am using a feeler guage, and my process is slip in the correct size feeler guage so it slides in fairly easily. I have the following measurements.. I am not sure if it's different for P90's versus a N42 for example HOT Exhuast .012 in Intake .010 in Now I am able to slip in the correct size feeler guage fairly smoothly.. the next size up I have to sorta wiggle in and it slides in very snug. When I start the car and its operating warm, Ive checked the measurements and made any necessary adjustments. However.. slight problem.. the mo fo sounds like a diesal! I'm not sure if its because I just jumped from Hydraulic to Solids and thats how noisey they are.. but it sounds like a diesal. What happens if the valves are too loose? What happens if the valves are too tight? (Z-gad I also sent you a PM.. I know you've dealt with hydraulics to solids, just in case you don't see this)

thanks guys.. i will be messing around with it next week whenI get my damn clutch working again..air in the system

thanks for those pics Sven!! awsome!! now time to find out how to read them! lol Helix if you check on the aerodynamics thread on this site.. there is a PDF file from mitsubishi which shows that the vortex generators delay the airflow seperation.. so the air stream hits the wing and creates more downforce.

That is correct tannji .. Subaru calls it the "roof vane" while Mitsubishi has vortex generators.. yes RedFive they are different I found this article online Also

Ok .. let me re-word "diffuser" The Subaru has "vertical stabilizers"

In addition.. note the Subaru WRX WRC car.. the wing is much larger and has diffusers built into the wing

grab me a set of 440cc's! I need some spares! I pay double!

Once Subaru noticed that Mitsubishi was implementating Vortex Generators on the roof of their cars.. Subaru stepped in and developed this spoiler

that is the bumpiest map i've ever seen.. LoL.. bunch of areas with what looks like lean spikes.. so your dumping tons of fuel in a cell.. are your AFR's steady or all over? and whats going on after 180kpa?! suddenly gets SUPER lean.. never plan on runnin more boost? if not.. still tune it to like 150% so you dont go boom