vashonz

The owner of this car flew my dad down to SEMA to photograph this car. He says it was designed to "corner really good and go really fast" (quote from him standing in the kitchen). There are some pretty good photos of it on his computer I could post up if anyone wants.

Spindle pin?

They had a link to the winners of the contest, 3 of them were actually painted on the trucks. It was the pringles one, the pepsi one, and some german shipping company.

Thats cool, the whole trump l'eoul (I don't speak french) thing is pretty sweet, its neat to see it applied to moving advertizing. I found the images on snopes. http://www.snopes.com/photos/arts/truckart.asp

I think what people do is use the SMAW/GTAW power supply and a spool gun to do MIG without buying a separate machine.

By electric do you mean SMAW (shielded metal arc welding), ie consumable electrode with a flux coating? If so I know you can weld stainless steel with SMAW, I'm not so sure about aluminum (I think you might be able to, it would just be difficult and messy) MIG welding is alot harder for me than TIG. Other people will say the opposite. When TIG welding I usually set the flow to 20 CFH (Cubic Feet per Hour). Starting a MIG welder is easy, you pull the trigger, wire comes out of the gun, touches the metal, creates an arc, and starts depositing wire into the weld bead. You could braze-weld steel/stainless to aluminum, but not weld. Welding aluminum is REALLY easy if you have a machine that will do AC and HF (High frequency). Welding steel to Stainless steel is fine, you just need to use 309 filler rod.

Sweet, its ordered and paid for. This should help getting it tuned.

How do you know they're all gone? So if my order went through I get one?

I finally got my Z running on the SDS and 72lb injectors. Right now I'm waiting to use a friends welder to weld the intake plumbing. Here are a few photos. The relay board I built because I had lots of extra time and wanted a clean power source for the SDS, Apex'i, fan, and fuel pump. It everything but the fuel pump and fan turn on with the key. I have schematics if anyone wants them.

It's nothing at all like a garden hose. Water is effectively uncompressable, while air (a gas) will change in density with pressure and temperature. The AFM will only measure flow. If it is placed in an unpressureized location (before the turbo) and is temperature compensated it works. BUT if it is pressureized, then you have to take into account both temperature and pressure. I think Corky Bell talks about this a little. If you're going to do all that why not just measure pressure, get rid of the AFM, and use VE tables?

Nice job on the body work. Do you get down to alki much? (thats where the pic was taken right?) Any ideas on what to do with the front plate? Or do cops not bother older cars?

The little thing with the "T" shaped terminals is the ignitor, I only had 1 wire (the yellow and black one) going to it. Be careful, because if you apply power to the wrong terminal it's really easy to blow it, which means no spark. New the ignitor is expensive, but is the same across a couple different nissans.

They already are on the roads over here. Theres a company in oregon who builds them under license. http://www.arielatom.com/

You might call Doug at fairlady motors, he does alot of those swaps. He Probably has a good idea of what it costs.

has anyone thought about getting this type of thing done by emachineshop.com? For individual parts they are pretty expensive, but once you make ~5 it gets more economical.

Just saw this thread, I have a couple 240z parts cars in my yard. From what I remember the area you describe is in good shape. We were just going to junk the car. If you want to come over and cut anything off you're welcome to it. (bring sawzall blades, we have a saw you can use). I'll pm you with my phone #

http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-223.html this one?

You don't really need a compressor bypass as long as you're running the stock J pipe. Recirc is much better if you keep the air meter. If you get rid of the air meter then its up to you.

http://www.ebolamonkeyman.com has fun with these scams, and actually invests some time in messing with the scammers.

It has been done. You might check http://www.hybridz.org , search around a little, lots of info.

Most of those choppers use the belt as the primary drive, but still use a chain as the final drive. All the bikes I am familiar with have the transmission connected directly to the engine, and the primary drive is internal. Changing the length of a drive chain is REALLY easy, takes about 10 minutes. As for chain drive vs. belt drive it used to be that chains could handle more abuse, but newer belt technology means that chains are cheaper and narrower. Belts are smooth. There was a good discussion of this on vfrdiscussion.com Back on topic, I think the gear drive would be cool if someone made it with herringbone or double helical gears, it would be smooth, quiet, and able to take lots of abuse. But would be really expensive.