Forrest

(No offense to the people who are running zcar.com, but their users have stopped me from posting there or reading) As long as I have been coming here, this site has been an excellent resource for information, with minimal BS. Maybe it was even better before I came aboard, and this is not new to anyone. However, lately there seem to be more and more re-asked questions, questions asked so vaguely that they cannot possibly be answered, or, worst of all, questions answered with misinformation. The moderators here have already said, repeated, underlined, emphasized: if you have a question about a subject - do a search first. If you post a question that has been answered 10 times already - that makes it HARDER for the next guy doing a search to find the right answer. If you are unsure (or if you should be) of the validity of the response you're writing, it seems to me like it would be polite to say so if you are going to respond at all. I am not trying to tell anyone what to do. I am asking for your cooperation...if you're coming here for information instead of the other places, please be considerate and read what has already been posted by the owners and operators here about board ettiquette. Otherwise this site will be just as bad as all the rest, with time. I don't know what else can be done, except have to have really harsh moderation. It seems like that has been decided against, which is a statement of trust in all of us. It is up to us, who are using the site. I love all you guys, and am not trying to tick anyone off. If you think I have a valid point, just think about it. I will try to live up to what I'm saying too, I'm sure I've made a post or two in the past that wasn't well researched enough beforehand. Thanks, -Forrest

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Update?

Just asked to see if that affected resale value. For instance, if someone already had TB's to use, that didn't have as much resale value as TWM's. I'm very interested to see if it gets up to the reserve. Good luck with the sale.

Joel, are your TWM injector ports permenantly blocked off, or just plugged?

What part of LA? http://www.louisianazclub.org

I can't swear to it but I know someone that was much rougher than you mentioned being on that exact setup, no problems, for months and months before he took his car down. I'm not hard on mine, but I did make like 14 passes at the drag strip in the space of 4 hours at SEZM4, many of them back to back. I launched at over 3.5k every time. You ought to talk to ACT, ask them what they think, it sounds like yours was defective. Maybe they will do you right.

FSM - failing that, the Haynes or Chilton will tell you exactly where the wiring and relays are. RTFM

Take his mom for a ride and take it to WOT in a straight line...see if you she still thinks it is a good idea.

No offense, but I would be smiling my ass off if I lived through that.

If you don't have a garage, build one! I know exactly what you mean - even at night here, it is now like 90 degrees with insanely high humidity. When I walk out of the air conditioned area, I just start choking. So what I am doing is going to bed early and waking up at 4-5am so I can work when it is cool. When I have my own house, though, it will be AC in the garage for sure! Don't sell your Z, it looks great.

I said good, not cheap. Most of the time those things mean polar opposite.

If you want a really kickass knock sensor that will retard ignition on only the cylinder that it detects knock on, check out http://www.jandssafeguard.com -Forrest

Hey, glad you are making process. I also had no luck with the HEI module. It sounds like you've already made sure the input signal for the ignition is working fine....check your Q5 transistor with a voltmeter to make sure it's ok (mine needed to be replaced.) I am running MSD instead, which needed a 50% dwell version of the code (magnus posted it on the MSS list I believe) and that is working fine. You can probe the output of your Q5 with an LED to see if you're getting a signal at all. Good luck! -Forrest

There are hundreds of posts about many many topics related to your project. Welcome to the board, try the search function or just browse the turbo forum. One thing I would suggest is getting a standalone efi, otherwise you're going to hit some limits pretty soon. -Forrest

I built mine to be a very uncomfortable daily driver! That is the only kind I want. Every time I get jarred going over a bump, I grin. Every time I have lever myself into the racing seat, and I have to buckle up the 6pt, I grin. Everytime I have to hold the ACT super heavy pressure plate down, or let out the unsprung copper plate...you got it. And every time I take a corner on a 4 lane road at over 45mph, 5000rpm in second, rear end sliding just a tiny bit, I laugh my idiot head off. Don't worry, I'm pretty responsible.

I don't know if those distributors are the same. I have never seen or read about the 82. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Jared, here is my reply to your questions: First of all, I am not the seller for this unit, so I cannot take any respsonsibility for how this information is used. I am the guy who tested the MS for sale on my 280Z, for the sellers. All the information you need is at http://www.megasquirt.info but of course I will try and answer your specific questions. As for the wiring, go to that page, and look at the "wiring and sensors" page. What I did was use the relay board kit that the same people who made MS designed and sell. Then you take out your entire EFI harness and make your own with the relay board. However, I know other people who built MS and installed it directly onto the stock harness by splicing in, and were up and running very very quickly. What you'd need in that case are: Pipe to replace your AFM. (unless you want to leave it in there, which will hurt airflow as it normally does) GM Intake Air Temperature Sensor - details on the MS page 240sx throttle body (just for the throttle position sensor) - common upgrade for us anyway, for more airflow. Vacuum line to go from the intake manifold to the MS unit. I can't think of anything else I needed but go that page first and read over everything. The MAP sensor in MegaSquirt is the MPX4250 (2.50 BAR or 21 psig)but you can replace it with a 3 or 3.5 BAR sensor if your wish - just takes a few minutes and some soldering. The VE table is currently setup for a 280zxt engine and is good for any levels up to 11psi, and actually I've been running it at 14psi and haven't had any problems. You don't need to reset it for lower boost. There is only one setting you will need to adjust (very easy to adjust.) It is the setting that determines what mixture you want to run and is based on your injector size. I am running 300cc injectors at 39psi at idle instead of 29. So, you will want to turn that down some for stock injectors or maybe turn it up for larger ones - but the software has a built in calculator to tell you what to put in there. It is extremely easy to use, don't be intimidated. As far as the ignition! This is what I am running: 83zxt CAS -> Megasquirt input for ignition -> MSD -> coil. If you do not use MSD you will need to load the default software onto this unit. It is very easy to do this, and the http://www.msefi.com forum has thousands of people who can answer your questions and help you out. If you don't use MSD you can use the default MegasquirtNSpark software to control ignition with a 10$ GM HEI ignition module. There are detailed instructions for this at the Megasquirtnspark user group on yahoogroups. The problem with using Megasquirt without the ignition side on our cars is that the stock ECU controls ignition (for knock retard) so you'd have to leave the stock ECU hooked up to do ignition, or put in an older distributor to go staight to the coil. MSS is easy to set up, I would just use that. (and I did.) Search on http://www.megasquirt.info or http://www.msefi.com and I guarantee you will find all the info you can ask for. -Forrest

Bernard, I'm curious, as I have a z31 ECU - how are you reprogramming it? -FOrrest

Jared, I wrote a long reply to your questions for the sellers. I am sorry you didn't get it, check your junk folder in case it was filtered. I will post it here soon. I guarantee the sellers will do you right. And I will be happy to help you out as well as all the other other people at http://www.msefi.com. Check out those forums, there is tons and tons of information there. Make sure to read Moby's writeup in the turbo section, that is what I used to get mine going! -Forrest

Actually, it's 50-75$ cheaper than the going rate, and the accessories you mention are going to be different for every application, so it doesn't make sense to sell them together. You got a very good deal because 125$ is FAR LESS THAN PARTS COST. I know, having built 2 of them for my own use. Anyone can go on ebay and see that ECU units alone have sold for 275$ minimum to 375$ in the last several months. If you want one with a relay board and a warranty, that's 500$. So please CHECK YOUR FACTS. Complete Megasquirt parts kit - 148$ shipped Tools purchased for build - approx 175$ Megasquirt test computer build (necessary for build but not operation) - 20$ + shipping for partial kit, 22$ + shipping for digikey parts Labour necessary to build megasquirt the first time - 8-10 hours if you are thorough. It still took me 5 hours to build my second one, even preparing everything ahead of time. Testing in car - several hours. You can check these numbers at http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html So, please tell me how you figure that 125$ is a fair price, just because you happened to luck out once. Tell me where to get some for that price, I could make a killing reselling them. If you can't, please retract your unconstructive comments. I am not making a dime off this sale but I know the people who are selling it and they've worked very hard to put together the best deal currently available. -Forrest

I tested this unit (although I'm not getting a cent from the sale) and it is running MegasquirtNSpark currently set up for an L28ET with 300cc injectors and MSD, and I'm running up to 14psi on that table. You could clip into your stock harness, run a vacuum line and be running in under an hour. Of course if you don't have an L28ET you can run this on anything by changing the VE table. Anyway, just thought someone might be interested in one already setup and ready to go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7909698508&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Again, I'm not the seller, so any questions should be directed to them. I have a feeling that most of the units sold on ebay are not road tested, and I can testify that you can have a damaged unit that passes ALL of the tests performed during construction.

Wow, great job! I wish every seller was as thorough as you are...and you're making me think very irresponsible thoughts. I will show as many people as I can, it looks very good. Unless you have the mafia after you, do not accept less then your asking price! Someone is going to get a very good deal.

Owen, I believe TXR0 uses the same engine as Wangan Midnight. (Which is not that great.) TXR3 lets you create an s30 with a turbo L6. I just got that for the novelty. If there was a lot of story wtih the game, that would be different but otherwise, from what I heard, it wasn't worth all the trobule to get. I have the first 5 volumes of the Wangan Midnight manga, and that is some good stuff.

Well, I have 2 Z's already, and even though I would like to add a 3rd, I am already paying off one that I bought before I could afford it. So I dont' mean to lead you on. However - I have showed your ad to about 20 people so far. And in good conscience I can't tell them to seriously look into it without knowing the extent of the rust (which plagues us all.) If you want to make the best use of my free salesmanship, I would suggest taking pictures of the framerails, underneath your carpet, the spare tire well, underneath the lip of the hatch (on the hatch itself and the shelf it rests on), around the taillights, where the tension compression rods bolt to the body, around the battery tray area, but most importantly, anywhere that you know of that does have rust... I don't know about anyone else, but having seen what I have seen on S30s- seeing the bad stuff ahead of time is a huge selling point. If I drove 12 hours to see your car and found rust on it that I didn't know about, I would probably walk away, no matter how good the deal was, just because I would be afraid of other things I might find later. Good luck!