Forrest

This is amazing...2500lbs, comes with no power accessories and racing seats/harnesses. The only thing that would stop be from buying one (besides my evergrowing z-only stable) is the fact that it's made by dodge. But it does seem MUCH more in the spirit of the 240z than the 350z does (no offense to the 350z guys, those are great cars on their own merit.) Unbelievable.

Your pictures look nice, but I don't see any pictures of the rust.

Mike, I don't think you really mean age=experience. You mean the older you are the more likely you are to have more experience based on averages. I've met several people at work who are older than me, but immigrated to this country without ever driving. They have 0 experience driving and they are very scary to ride with (from what I've been told heh heh.) Anyway, I agree that in general it works out that way, but I don't believe the age restrictions should be increased, rather, the requirements should be. I definitely didn't say "no seat time," I said more seat time. I think people ought to log lots of sim hours (especially with the technology available now) and supervised hours as well. Number of hours logged should be much more important than age. Auto accidents are the #1 cause of death of everyone under the age of 45 as well, not just teenagers. If I owned the roads my restrictions would be based on performance history and experience, not age. The main problem with our entire country is that the government owns the roads, not me, so there is nothing I can do about it. But that is a totally different topic. As long as we are talking about roads, though, check this page out: http://www.americanautobahn.com/

I can't believe you people, because you are car enthusiasts, would base your "ideal restrictions" on age. Age is no indicator of skill or maturity level.Many 16 year olds are out there working for a living. I'm sure there are many of them that are more responsible drivers than a cross section of many other age groups. I know that I was, and I still have 0 wrecks on my record. I have a cousin who was making flights by himself before he was old enough to have a driver's license. If you want more restrictive requirements for driving, fine. But use your head and leave age out of it. What we need for more responsible and mature driving is good instruction (good parenting.) To increase skill you need more seat time.[/i]

In regards to AFM/MAF, this question has been answered in detail in several topics. Basically, you definitely need to recirculate. However, I have a MAP sensor, not MAF, but if there is a benefit to recirculating I will continue to do that. The Greddy Type S is pretty loud even when recirculated, as it is now. I have heard that it stabilizes pressure. Does anyone have a link to any technical articles on this subject?

My little bro has Dorifto on his AE86

If you were able to narrow it down to a particular cylinder (or two) and you're still getting consistant spark (you can remove the distributor and turn the shaft by hand to check) then it must be fuel, so look at your injectors and injector connectors. Check to make sure all your injector connectors are well fastened and not cracked or broken. If you need new ones, PM me, I sell them. -Forrest

What did you have to do as far as brackets for the sliders, spacers, cutting, etc? How low are those compared to your stock seats?

Megasquirt!

They are DAD seats - basically sparco copies. They bolted in with no modification and no door interference in my 78 280Z, on the driver's side. The wing just barely touches the door. I think the 240's actually have more room to work with so you should be ok. I don't know about your car but on the 78 280z, the stock sliders are an inch wider apart on the passenger side than on the driver's side. You can easily make a bracket for the drivers side by just drilling holes in a strip of steel. The passanger's side holes are too close to the holes in the seat, though, so i'm going to have to weld some tabs onto the sliders in order to make them bolt down.

Hey guys, I am just looking for some advice on shops to send injectors to in order to have them flow tested and matched. I'm in Baton Rouge and I don't think there are any places locally. Anyone have good experience with any place in particular? TIA -Forrest

Phyte, I called him and he could only find the wrong one. He said that if I got the invoice number from you and the part number, he could probably find one pretty easily. Could you send it to me? Thanks a million! -Forrest

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let me get this straight. You were looking for a recv drier that had the inlet, outlet, and pressure switch all in a Y at the top, right? And the one you found at first had the inlet at the top and outlet in the side? Nissan told me they couldn't get the Y type anymore. I've been holding onto the wrong type until I could find the Y one. So Austin Rebuilders had that type? Or did I misunderstand you? If not, what is their contact info?

The first thing I would do is rule out your FPR. Use a hand vacuum pump and a fuel pressure gauge to see if it is stuck.

Sorry for the blurriness.

I got one of the Sam's boxes and it is pretty nice. Stainless steel, ball bearing rollers, pneumatic hinges, tons of drawer space, and really heavy duty casters. It even came with the matting cut for every drawer. I was looking into just getting a small bottom box and everything at sears looked like it was goign to run me 4-500$ for almost nothing. When I saw that deal at Sam's I got one immediately. The only negative is that there is some slight side to side play in the shallowest drawers. They are about 18" deep so some play can be expected...this is probably more than you'd get on a snap-on box. But probably not any worse than Sears stuff. On the whole it is very sturdy. I'd expect it to cost about 3x as much if it was any name brand, definitely a lot more than 654.95$. -Forrest

You know, I don't care nearly as much about their "opinions" on engine swaps as the fact that 90% of the posts are answered with misinformation, which usually isn't even challenged. I have only posted there a few times, but once was in reply to a guy who said not to put oil in your strut housings because, and I quote, "the oil TRAPS heat and will cook your struts." This was a highly respected member for zcar.com. That was enough for me. HybridZ is the only Z forum I need.

I hooked my J&S unit back up and turned the boost up to 12psi (spiking to 14), mounted the LM-1 where it was visible, set my REQ_FUEL time to target about 12.8 AFR, set the tabletPC down between the seats, and took off. My ratio actually stays between 13-13.8 when it's not getting accelleration enrichment (at which point it goes down to 12) and under boost I got down to 10.7. I guess it's time to start learning how to use MSTweak3000. On the whole though, other than it being a little rich (to make sure it was never lean) the car ran really well. It felt very responsive and I never have any stumbling like I used to with the z31 ecu. I drove around for over an hour with a friend of mine watching the 4000 different gauges and outputs that are going on now. MSS rocks!

Exactly, that's why I was lost. Thanks John.

The Lm-1 rocks!

I'm about to relocate my pivot point as well. I noticed horrible bumpsteer once I put 225's on my car. My question is - measure what? I realize that the point is to keep the control arm parallel to the rack, and I've read that the rule of thumb is to move the pivot point the same distance that you're lowering the car. That doesn't seem possible. Is it supposed to be moved directly porportionally instead? If so, what is the porportion? -Forrest

I am using WinXP on a Tablet PC. I have no problems with the tach jumping in the software in MTSS or MT.

"Sharks are like dogs, they only bite when you touch their private parts."