Forrest

What is an S31?

http://www.classiczregister.org/html/history_-_nissan.html

http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/business/7611991.htm To clarify, NOT Mr. K, but Takashi Ishihara.

Looking good! Nice color.

Those are some blue blue skies! Good luck man, steady progress is the key.

Aux, I'm aware of the SCCA Pro association with the 4 event drift series - but it's not like they're hosting them. I'm pretty sure no SCCA clubs are hosting drift events, but hey, feel free to let me know if this has changed. I'd be surprised and saddened but maybe I'm just not cynical enough to believe it.

A drift AND autocross event? The same people are doing both? That's something I didn't expect. It's not SCCA Solo II is it? Do they just tell the safety stewards to stop watching when it's time for drifting?

A Delorean that's FAST? What the hell! The world isn't making sense any more! Someone help me find my way back to my home dimension!

Mike, since you brought this up, I have a quick question. I was told by a friend of mine that water injection leeched out some of the metals in the alloy of the L28 heads, making it a bad idea for us turbo L6 guys. I have heard there was a discussion about this on the IZZC list as well, but can't find it in the archives. Do you or anyone else here have any information on this issue?

Disclaimer: I hate cheating!!! However, I bought this game in order to beat it with the S30. I was happy when I beat the wanderer with it, bought it - and then found out that the 2.0L engine it came with was so weak that I lost 9 out of 10 races, and I could only win the 10th one by using every trick in the book to stop the other cars from passing me. I read about putting the 1242 miles on it in order to do the swap and worked diligently to get the mileage up. After about 400 miles of 90% losing, (and the 10% wins were not much fun, as it was mostly a frantic battle to stop the other guy from passing), I quit playing. It just wasn't fun and I had no interest in even attempting to get enough miles (takes about the same time it would take you to put miles on your car in real life.) I have better things to do than waste my time on a game that is not even entertaining... ...until - I found out there was a way to trick the autopilot into driving the car for you. Here is the process: 1) Finish a race (win or lose, doesn't matter) 2) When the Free Run - Replay menu comes up, take the CD out of the PS2 3) Select Free Run on the menu Autopilot will try to pilot the car back onto the streets, but without the CD, it never turns off. So you can let it run for a few hours to get the mileage on the car up, and when it's done, put the CD back in, don't hit anything until the console has caught up and you see the background images again. Then go back to the garage, save, and swap away. Lucky they had this glitch or I wouldn't have bothered playing any more. Now my car is pretty fast but there are still faster cars out there and I can still lose. Perfect. Again, anyone using the S30 - please post your suspension settings, I'd like to compare. -Forrest

Cool, lookin good! How much do they weigh?

I second the guy with the GNZ.

In all the rest of the car forums I am on it is a rule, and it's one that I think helps all parties involved, that's why I mentioned it. If no one else thinks it is a good idea, so be it. So, with that in mind, I'm not trying to start an argument with the following, just trying to let you guys know about some digital picture options. Anyway, if you're still using regular film, you can check a box that says "online development" in Walmart, Eckerds, almost any of the 1-hour or 24-hour development places. In some places there is an option to do online development only at a cheaper price than the regular development . However, I agree that it is a lot of trouble to get film developed - that's why I bought a digital camera. They have really come down a lot (and what was awesome quality 3 years ago and cost 500$ can now be had for 75$ because of the advances in technology.) If you are selling a lot of stuff you may want look into what is available now. I know I'm much more inclined to look closely at anything with pics. (Even a bracket.) As far as selling cars goes, I would think that it would go without saying (although obviously it doesn't) - A couple hours of effort and some good pics can make all the difference in a sale. To me, if you aren't willing to give details on the forum, or post requested pics, you're either: a) trying to pull a fast one or not serious about selling the car. Either way I don't want to waste my time dealing with it. If you say "no rust, email me for pics" and get mad when you're asked to post them, especially when Hybridz offers free picture hosting, something is fishy. -Forrest

In addition, I think there should be a "no pictures, no post" rule. As far as firearms, not that there is any reason to sell firearms on a Z forum, but as with any classified system, the responsibility of checking licenses and legal transactions is not the burden of the medium. People have been selling guns through the newspaper since before there were such invasions on our freedom as provided by "additional taxes that take 6 months to process and are sometimes not accepted." I don't think it is necessary to make any restrictions limited to firearms. Maybe some restrictions that limit sales to car parts, instead?

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt Glad I could help. <-- solves problems.

Owen - These seats are literally as wide as they can possibly be without the wings hitting the door. They just barely touch the door when it is fully closed. This is actually narrower than several of the racing seats I've seen, though. You can't mount the seat any farther to the right without either cutting into the base of the seat or cutting into the transmission tunnel. As I mentioned, I cheated to get the seat as far right as possible by using spacers to raise it up .75" in the rear so that it doesn't hit the transmission tunnel for another fraction of an inch. I measured the 3A seats after I met Mark at the Peck Nissan Z Day in Mobile, AL - he had them in his 240. But he did have to smash in the wing of the seat almost an inch to get the door to close, as well. I think the DAD seats are either a tiny bit narrower on the base or a tiny bit narrower on the wings. Either way, they are pretty close. I liked those too, seemed like good seats for the money.

baastad - Thanks! As soon as I read your post I went and got it. I currently have a car set up exactly the way I want my car to be setup when it's finished - and with a L28ET in it! Currently 450HP and smoking everything on the road. Is it just me or can most of the drivers in this game not take a turn to save their lives? If you are using a s30 in the game, what are your suspension settings? Tomahawk - sorry, if you were talking about setting up a competative bench racing scenario, well...hands down, the most popular racing sim out there is Gran Turismo 3, PS2 only. It is also the most detailed and most realistic (as far as physics), not to mention the most fun racing sim I've ever played. It is an amazing game, and I bought a used PS2 for that game alone. I only broke down and got TXR3 because there is an S30 in it, and they allow engine swaps. I swore I'd never buy a console (I really have 0 time for video games) but I couldn't help it after seeing GT3. If you know anyone who has it, go check it out and you may be infected (especially if they have a force feedback wheel.)

!!!!! http://www.thetailofthedragon.com !!!!!

They say it's not computer generated, but it doesn't look natural at all in some places. (E.g. the tires slowly rolling up that incline.) There has to be SOME behind the scenes manipulation going on.

Good deal man! It only takes a few hours to build - it's the research for application specific junk that takes a while. Mine is totally built and tested, I just have to make the underhood wiring harness. It's taken me way too long, if I wasn't such a slacker it could have been built and installed in a weekend.

BTW, I have a set of 460cc RX7 injectors, so let me answer your other question - they are low impedence. I'd heard the same thing, but Pallnet and I pulled several sets from the yards, and they are all low-impedence.

I know several people who have done the AFM adjustment in order to use the 370's. (Most of them went to aftermarket EFI or took the 370's out, however.)Like I said, I know it works, but the amount of extra air and the amount of extra fuel you're getting is not porportional across the board. So its going to be rich at some places on the RPM/a-f curve. With 370's it's not too bad, but I would guess that with 460's if there is even enough air with the air bypass screw all the way out, the mixture would be much too rich in some ranges to run smoothly. But hey, why agonize over it? MS it for 140$ and a few hours of soldering. Jersey, if you're a hacker, MS was designed for you!

Hey man, I'm really sorry I haven't gotten back to you yet. We still haven't installed the A bars. I think at this point, since I will be swapping the turbo motor in in a few weeks, that I will hold off until then. Since I made this post I installed a 13" Pilot wheel. It is very nice, no wheel problems now. I was afraid it was going to be harder to turn the wheel (which made stock Z steering feel like power steering already) but surprisingly the added room for manuverability made it seem much easier, not harder (although percieved aspect ratio change technically did make it require more effort.)

Oh man...trying not to bust out laughing at work. That was well done.

Whether or not they "too big" depends soley upon your fuel management system. If you are using a stock ECU you need to use stock injectors. Using any larger size will not be compensated for by the ECU and the car will run poorly. I know there are hacks to get more air (unmetered) so that it won't be running too rich, but those will not work well across the entire fuel map. Aftermarket fuel management is the way to go! Check out Megasquirt: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt