Forrest

I didn't have trouble after the seats were mounted as far towards the transmission tunnel as possible on the stock rails. The wings barely touch the door, but they don't stop it from closing in any way.

It can give you more HP if your current system is not doing a good enough job. The stock Bosch system is set to deliver the best mix of HP and economy/emissions. Best HP would be closer to 12:1 all the time. These gains are not going to be huge, however. What it WILL allow you to do is put larger injectors in and account for them.

I used a spring rate spreadsheet a little while ago and it recommended 175F/225R for my car assuming a weight of 2650 (which is close) and the axel weights and estimated unsprung weights that the guy who wrote the sheet (who had a 2650lb s30.) I was going for a pretty rough ride but not full out race scenario. It was curious though that no matter how rough I set it, the front spring rate never got up to 200 - it seemed that for my weights 175 was best in the front in most of the scenarios. I don't have the link anymore, but I'm sure someone else does. It was a good spreadsheet.

pamos, here is the deal. There are twenty-five THOUSAND messages on the Megasquirt group. If you want general information, specific information, pictures, schematics - it is ALL there. There is no reason anyone here should pamper you through it or beg you to go with MS. If you want information - start reading. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt If you build MS and have thought out, Z-specific install questions that you can't find answers to - then come back and ask them.

The problem is, it's not a Z car. It will be an expensive fix, depending on how good a job you want done, but I think it's possible. Good luck!

I have to add that the part of the track that we were doing braking on was noticably dusty until it stated raining, so I have not had the opportunity to do threshold braking VS full lockup driving in on clean dry concrete. Also, I have read that threshold braking is much closer to the limit of traction, so it stops you sooner than ABS would - not sure if ABS is a good comparison. I defer to your 40 years of driving, since I only have a handful to claim. I assume this situation depends on surface conditions and other variables too. Anyway, I'll do some more reading.

My personal experience has been the opposite.... During the threshold braking part of driving school we got to drive in the wet and dry and in both conditions, locking up the tires at the braking line caused me to go much much farther than I did threshold braking, starting at the exact same speeds at the exact same point. I'm not trying to start an argument with you man, but what you're saying doesn't make sense to me.

Hey man, have you ever been to an autox school? It's a good place to practice threshold braking if you haven't had the opportunity. If you're interested check your local SCCA club's schedule. (scca.org should give you contact info.) Autocrossing makes for safer drivers.

I was just about to post and ask if anyone who had TXR3 also had a Logitech wheel to test it with. I bought TXR0 and played it for about 3 minutes after I found out my wheel (Driving Force) didn't work. Might as well have burned the 20$ in an ashtray. One of the logitech wheels, a more obscure one, works, but I'm not going to go buy it just for that game. So if someone could verify that the Driving Force wheel works with TXR3 I would be very appreciative. I've asked on about 4 forums now and no one has replied. Thanks, -Forrest

Here are some notes: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24109&highlight=60mm

HAHAHAHA! Good story! Some guys at work have had the same experience at Calenders....with a huge palmetto bug. (The BIG roaches.) I love to eat out but damn - you never know where your food has been.

There are lots of addon kits you can buy for MS. I believe the cost without any of them is around 130$. I ended up spending almost exactly 250$ with the enclosures, the relay, the test board, and i bought some of the bulk items that digikey doesn't sell seperately to save time. (Good call moby)

Nice shop!

Oh man.... Oh man.

Get them hooked on smack and keep them in good supply. That should take care of it. <-- Solves problems.

That sounds like a kickass filter! Does it advertise "100% of spam will be deleted, guarenteed!" ?

Good job Gabe. "Thanks for coming out and KEEPING the SCENE ALLLLLIVE!"

Again, I don't see anything in the FSM about calibrating the TPS. I see where to check it to see if it is working. That says "check for continuity." I am looking under Engine Fuel. Is there more information somewhere else?

That's 2 different guys - Tomohawk and Tomahawk Z. (I think I got the spelling right anyway.) I held off on commenting on this thread because I was afraid I'd say something that would bring unwanted attention to my door, and possibly alienate myself on this board, which is Z car focused and not civil rights focused. With the response so far, though, I have to assume anyone reading this thread wants to hear what I have to say. I have more hate and disgust for the system that allows this to happen and the people working everyday (paid with blood money) to support it than I can possibly express here. A few things I stopped myself from replying with before are: When the Nazis were brought to trial, "just following orders" didn't cut it. Any law that contrary to the bill of rights is NULL AND VOID. If you're one of the thugs enforcing laws that violate our rights, you should be drug out in the street and beaten to death with your own dismembered limbs. Something people seem to forget is that in Nazi Germany, they passed strict gun control laws ("sporting purposes only" anyone?) and disarmed the Jews before rounding them up. "Don't make waves?" Tell the holocaust survivors that. If you have a problem with that statement take it up with these guys - http://www.jpfo.org/ as they are more eloquent than I. If anyone wants to make a difference, join and support a REAL gun rights (and all other rights that are protected by the 2nd amendment) group like GOA http://www.gunowners.org who doesn't rally behind current and future gun control laws like the backstabbing NRA board does. And support sites like http://www.keepandbeararms.com who are currently fighting as hard as they can to keep information about gun rights issues available to us, and are supporting legal battles against the evil we have to live with every day. Voicing your support on a message board is great but it doesn't do much - if you mean it, show it! If I've offended you, PM me and let's talk. Hopefully I just riled you up a little. Cases like Silveira v Lockyer really need our help right now. -Forrest

Shouldn't it have a phone number?

I got lucky...a friend of mine sold them to me for 250$. I have a pair of turbo impulse seats with adjustable leg and kidney bolstering, and adjustable lumbar that I was going to put in, they were my "I can't afford to waste 400$ on a friggin seat" seats. But when I saw these I couldn't resist and I'm not sorry. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33701&item=2442553743 Those are not much more. Shipping is a killer though. Their weight on the seats (25lbs)seems a little high. When I took off the universal rails that they came with, they weighed a lOT less. I didn't weigh them yet (might do it when I take out the passenger seat for bracket welding) but they felt lighter than the stock seats.

Hey guys, Well, I love my new seats, and here they are: Please ignore the bad paint and the chipped mirror (weight savings!) I'm trying to get to that soon. They are DAD seats - I've been told they are nearly exact Sparco copies. I haven't confirmed that because I don't really care. I got a chance to sit in them before buying them and they fit me perfectly, and are very comfortable. I didn't think that I would need anything better than stock after getting my harnesses but I was oh so wrong. The seats hold me in so well that I dont' have to buckle the harnesses down super tight all the time, and I can still pull hard g's. I've gotten some questions so I figured I mention what was involved with the install - because it was a bastard, and technically I'm not done yet. I used the stock sliders, and to mount them to the seats, I drilled out two 1.5"x13" pieces of quarter inch steel with 3 holes. I couldn't use a set of holes for the sliders and a seperate set of holes for the seat, because the driver's side sliders are 12.5" apart and the holes in the seat were 13.5" apart. So I mounted one set of sliders into the holes on the seat (the left set, actually, to move the seat as far to the right as possible) AND through the metal brackets that I made, and then mounted the other set of slider to the holes in the bracket - and then the final set of holes in the bracket went to the other two mounting points on the seats. Clear as mud? Also, the holes in the stock sliders are 12.5" apart. The holes on the seats are 11.5" apart. So I drilled new holes in the sliders, no problem. The brackets were originally too long and had to be chopped off so that there was as small a margin as possible (about .5" on each end) otherwise, they hit the transmission tunnel and the seat wouldn't fit in the car. Now, I discovered that the seats were too wide to fit on the stock mounting points near the base (they hit the transmission tunnel just at the last half inch from the base.) If I had mounted the seats so that the sliders were positioned closer to the right relative to the seat, so that the seat would be farther left, it would stop the door from closing. The previous owner had put in some wood spacers about 3/4" to raise the seat a little, and I tried using them to see if that would raise the seat enough so that the base would not hit the tunnel. It worked but I discovered that the seats sat too high to put my legs under the wheel without touching it - even if the seat was pulled back enough so that I barely had room to work the pedals. So out came the front spacers, and I left the rear ones in. I fit, and the seat fit. I am 5'11" and I have about 2" of head clearance, I think. I like it at that height but it is a squeeze getting in and out of the car around the steering wheel, I have to admit. (Planned on getting a smaller wheel anyway, we're about to see if that will make it too hard to turn the wheel.) Next trial - the passenger seat slider rails turn out to be half an inch farther apart than the driver's seat rails are. Which made it impossible to repeat my previous bracket, as there was not room to bolt both the seat and the slider to the bracket (and the holes would probably touch as well.) Did you guys know abuot that? Neither I or Sam really believed it at first, then we checked it on the rotisserie car. Anyway, that seat isn't technically in yet. I have to cut and reweld the sliders on one side, because there is no way to mount them to a bracket. In short - lots of cursing was involved with this project, but the seats rock (probably for me and no one else.) Sam was convinced to stick with stock seats. Thanks again for the help, Sam. Pros - comfortable in extremo - can be "made" to fit without bashing in the door (as I have seen done) - harness holes, kickass bolstering Cons - driver's side is annoying to install, passenger side is outright painful - if you're not 5'11" 170lbs, I make 0 guarentees If you want some, they're about half the price of new Corbeau's, and they're on ebay all the time.

I'm about to install one as well - I dont' see anything in the FSM about recalibrating it, though. Is it under a different section than "engine fuel" ?

Yeah, really. Have you checked under the battery tray, under the hatch, underneath the seats, in the spare tire well? If so - how about looking inside the frame rails, or underneath the support panel is at the bottom of the front fender wells? I'm helping a guy work on a "rust free" car. Indeed, it looked pretty rust free until we stripped off all the undercoating. They DO exist, though - maybe you have one. Best of luck.

What size are you going to use?