DuffyMahoney
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Everything posted by DuffyMahoney
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It will idle below 1300. The terrible clicks go away above. It runs crazy rich no matter what though.
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Thanks guys. I don’t believe it’s a setting. But I could be wrong. It slowly got worse and worse which has me stumped. I trust injector labs and the owner. He has been great. He also claims he doesn’t think it is the injectors. I made the decision to test them when they stop reacting to commands. Basically steps towards finding the issue and resolving it. My guess is they come back fine and then next I send the ecu in. I tried early tunes that had everything correct and used to run fine. Basically the first tunes, before we started the process of tuning via the fuel maps. I was told that the wiring thickness would be different inside the coil on the injectors. Lower ohm would have more robust windings. Higher Ohm would be thinner, higher ohm coils are actually smaller diameter as well. Again, I’m not an expert or electrical engineer.
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I own a brewery. We have solenoid valves on most of our brewery tanks. Sometimes when they are dying they make these crazy random clicks. I believe it’s the coils shorting. The injectors remind me of that noise. Time will tell. The car did run awesome, just for reference.
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Yeah all possible culprits. I will start that after I get the injectors back. I guess it’s a few days turn around.
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Not pissed at all. You are guys are super smart. I’m a huge newbie with all of this. One thing I forgot to mention. The injectors have slowly stopped listening to commands from the ecu. So strange. I literally can’t get the afr to go above 11. No matter what I do.
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You guys are all way too smart! All way over my head. The engine starts and runs terrible, kind of like a terrible tuned carb that’s super cold. I’m hopeful it’s injectors but both haltech and injectors labs say I could have caused damage. Haltech believes the ecu should be fine but has never tested running the engine a lot with the wrong ohm setting:) Injector labs said they could hear the click in the video. The clicks don’t go in time with anything. They sound almost completely random. Also go away as soon as I’m above 1300 or so rpms. I have gotten a few trigger errors. I will try to why what they were. I need to figure out my data log. So far that doesn’t work.
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Well it's either the ecu or the injectors that have an issue. I am sending the injectors off to be tested by Injector Clinic. That is where I got them. Fingers crossed, that would be the cheapest fix!
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I understood that lower ohm was opposite. So 1-3 would require beefier internal wiring. So running a 12ohm injector with 1-3 ohms with thin internal wiring would Ruin them? I'm not an engineer at all. I should have asked more questions. I don’t believe the haltech has anyway to test without the car running. I know some ecus do.
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I asked an electrical engineer buddy, he doesn't know much about injectors but said low ohms towards them could have fried the windings? Super common in the car speaker world, which I am more familiar with. You can't send say 2ohm to a 4 or 8ohm speaker very long till it ruins it. Very common for people to wire speakers incorrectly and damage the speaker or the amp. I guess I could have damaged the ecu? I asked injectorlabs about it. Waiting to hear back. The video doesn't show the sound that well.
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Well, I at some point I must of changed the settings in the haltech software from high own to low ohm (should have been set high or 12.8ohm) , then over the next 15 hours of tuning I believe I have ruined my injectors:( The odd clicks are coming from the injectors.
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I should have a test bracket in my hands soon, maybe tomorrow?
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I had a throttle body not seated all the way. I switched from studs on the intake to bolts and it fixed it. I am in the middle of tuning and trying some settings. Frustrating, but also sort of fun! There are so so many settings! I am also trying to track down a weird hesitation that seems to come and go, so either spark or fuel. I kind of wish I would have made a hand throttle using my stock choke lever for bumping the rpms for warm up, sure would have been easier. With the same tune, the engine doesn't run the same with the large balance bar. Also have the balance bar after the injectors isn't ideal.
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All will be checked, but they should be spot on for the $.
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It’s on here somewhere
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3.2L engine parts arrived from Rebello today! JE Pistons, Eagle rods and king race bearings. Rod bearing clearances are spot on. Marine Crank did a fanstatic machining job on my extra long stroke LD crank.
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Probably my favorite engine swap in a Z
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Engine builder is removing the casting flash and de-burring the block today. Getting ready for Glyptol coating. Pretty neat.
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Well we finally got a block that passed sonic testing. It took 4 to get one that can handle the 88.5 pistons. N42 for the win! Thanks Andrew Kazanis! It’s going to be a sweet motor.
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Not keeping the intake ports rough. They are done already. Flow data is attached. Valve guides were left in during porting then replaced after by a machine shop. I don’t believe the chambers were touched. But I will ask Andrew (engine builder) I went through 4 E-31 heads before i found one that was cast nicely and no flaws.
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I did the dsi valves. Nothing was done to the chamber. But I installed dsi valves. Lots of port work though. Flows awesome.
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Well it runs, but terrible. I have a massive vac leak, either from my balance bar not sealing or maybe a throttle body wasn't bolted down correctly, I had issues with one not seating well. Even with throttle plates in the fully closed position it runs happily at 900 rpms. So it's getting a ton of air from somewhere.
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Haltech elite 750. I will set the butterflies first. Then I can still use the iac for a rock solid idle. But it’s normally perfect.
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Warm I want the valve almost 0% open
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Pretty neat feature. I will try to set warmed idle at butterfly’s and at the ITB air bypass screws. Hopefully i can leave the IAC adjustable bleed closed
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Now this looks snazzy
