DuffyMahoney
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Everything posted by DuffyMahoney
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I gave up on mounting the fuel pressure regulator on the engine bay walls, I hated the amount of hoses that crossed over the engine bay. I ended up buying a radium -6 direct mount FPR (very nicely made). Then I had an adapter machined to match the 14mm fittings that the Jenvy fuel rail uses. I should be able to split both sides of the FPR to my 7mm return and my 5mm return. I think I came out great. Very neat design by radium, it can be mounted in any direction.
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I am going to attempt to move my FPR to the drivers side and use it. That way I am hard lines under the car. I will T the return from 7mm to 5mm and return via the stock 5mm line and the 7mm vapor vent line. Then use the 5/16 to feed the ITBs. Hopefully it works! I bought some 7mm efi fuel hose from belmetric. So that should give me a good amount more flow. Hopefully my push lock fittings work with it. My FPR mount was waiting to fail, i cut a lot of the strength out. So I will need to fabricate another and put it in my stock coil spot. Should end up looking pretty clean and simple.
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I took to a local radiator shop. They actually said they did it all the time. I was told its a common thing for radiator shops to do.
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The black tank is mine. The other was some image from google. I had mine, acid cleaned, then sealed. Then the exterior is powder coated.
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My stock lines are 5mm return and 8mm supply. So the Return gets a 3/16 line. Which is pretty tiny.
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First major setback. The return stock hardline is too small and is causing pressure to build up. Lowest I can get is 75psi. My plan is reuse the 8mm fill line as my new return then run 3/8 new flexible hose from the pump to the fuel rail. Then 5/16 line from the FPR to the 8mm stock line back to the tank. Then Y the 8mm (5/16) hardline to stock 5mm return and the 10mm tank vent.
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So cool, I can't wait to see it done.
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Telsa swapped Porsche is my next build I will attempt (If I can find the money). https://www.zelectricmotors.com/ They don't use the model 3 batteries. They all model S battery packs. https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=4&products_id=463&osCsid=do45arn6gds71gq6vo893ikdk5 You can buy pretty much everything you need to swap them into a VW or Porsche. Pretty neat stuff. Telsa Motor https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=8&products_id=476&osCsid=do45arn6gds71gq6vo893ikdk5
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Someday! I don't get out much though.
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now Engine bay is wired Now to hook up the fuel pump, keyed ignition and tach
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The 240sx trans fits perfectly in an early 240z. No cutting required. It's almost identical for the shifter hole. You need to buy the new mount. Godzilla race works has a package for it. I have this in my 240z.
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I have the AHP and I love it, I have professional welding buddies that help me when I want a part to look nice. They are always impressed.
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I got pretty far but I didn’t finish. Tedious work
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Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well. Now the easy stuff is left. Hopefully I will get that all done tomorrow.
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This is my plan for the injector positive. Basically a Y splice and crimp. The pulley wire isn’t cut. Just the sheath is removed. Then crimped another wire onto it. Then a dab of soldier. Then heat shrink. Should work perfectly. It’s just going to take a long time!
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It’s shorter. Which I didn’t want. I actually called Jenvy and asked for raw in the standard size. They said no
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That was also an option, but your tape lines would have to be perfect. Honestly I wish the throttle bodies were raw aluminum.
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The Mangoletsi intake is very well thought out and made. It was on the top of my list. SK Mangoletsi Jenvy
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Those look to be very similar intakes. I would guess most intakes were copies of designs. So similar runner length and spacing. Maybe I am wrong. Who knows, point being I dislike the look of fuel rails:) I was going to cover my tubes between ITB in some sort of cloth to mimic fuel hose, but decided against it when i didn't have any on hand. I have owned a Harada, FET, SK and TWM. I love my SK, to me it'just old school cool with the linkage. Plus the casting is light years nicer then the harada. Which I couldn't live with.
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I have owned 4 triple intakes. All are slightly different lengths, spacing etc... the dcoe pattern spacing is the same. But spacing from carb to carb would be different.
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I actually don’t like the look of one piece fuel rails. All triple intakes are different. So they could make one for their own intake. But not all without a lot of effort. My SK has the idle bump/ stop.
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These injectors can be pointed any direction. I will leave enough pig tail for each to plug and unplug easily. Shouldn't be an issue. I am copying the datsun spirit wiring and injector wiring setup. I bought the kit from them. Swap wires? No room to change any of the wiring without a ton of effort. It's all shielded and should be perfectly fine though. I am using a hall effect home sensor on the cam. Not enough wiring length for the crank sensor wiring to be on the injector side.
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I think this is how I will run my injector wires. Then y off at every runner. It would take some time. But look reallynice.
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I got way further on my ITB install. My kick panel mount worked perfectly and I have about 2 spare inches on the wiring harness. I successfully installed it all with zero cutting of my stock harness and zero new holes which I’m pretty happy with. Now the hard part. Making all the shrink wrap and loom look clean.
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Well I found a 2nd hole I didn’t know I had. I tested it and I should be able to fit all wiring with zero new holes in the car. So that’s a full efi install with zero holes or Permanent mods! Stoked. 02 sensors go through the shifter hole. Tps, air temp, coolant temp, home signal and injectors through the choke hole. R35 coils, crank trigger, oil pressure, fuel pressure, dual positives and ground will go through the hole below the stereo.
