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DuffyMahoney

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Everything posted by DuffyMahoney

  1. Some L series piston porn for your Thursday viewing pleasure. Originally the ceramic coating had some issues. I reached out to the company eagle suggested and they fixed them for me. Much better coating job. Contact IA coatings:https://www.facebook.com/iacoatings/
  2. I chickened out and went 88.5 pistons. So I will be 3.1something
  3. I have vintage SK throttle bodies, basically the same casting as the OER. I plan on an injector like this. https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35459212-genuine-bosch-ev1-36lb-390cc-fuel-injectors-0280158124-set-of-6.html I am still trying to find the spray pattern for it. Bosch made this model in 4 spray angles and 4 spray patterns. My plan is a single cnc fuel rail. I know people have used the RX7 injectors with success.
  4. The coils are at least ip4 or ip6 waterproofed. I have pressure washed my engine and then drove the car home. If that helps.
  5. Rebello pistons just got back from ceramic coating by Performance Coatings, Inc. No clue if it was a good idea or not. But we decided to give it a try. Ceramic on top, anti scuff on sides, thermal barrier on bottom. The color is more of a bronze then the picture is showing.
  6. A few of you may know this. But last year I designed and made a coil on plug bracket based of Bryan Blake’s ford coil on plug design. It uses the Nissan coil head used on the Nissan GTR R35. Works perfectly, bolts on and you can even buy a very nice pre made wiring harness from platinum racing products. Coils are fairly cost effective. Takes a specific boot (2-3 actually work) to work. It’s one of the best coils on the market. I believe only the AEM coil beats it. Basically he took my design based off of his, then fixed some of my issues and is now selling them. Bottom pictures are my bracket installed on my 240z. Email Bryan to place and order. Eventually he will sell on eBay. bryan@blakemachine.com
  7. My 3.1ish stroker build ran into a small issue. The block will need to be clearanced a little more. The extra long stroked LD crank (84.6) is to blame. The engine can be rotated, and it just barely touches about one time out of three. That’s just the .002” of bearing clearance rocking one way or another. Deck height is within .002” of each other. Andrew Kazanis is a L series wizard. Hopefully when he retires he will build Datsun motors and especially do more head work.
  8. Facebook doesn't work, they stop people from being able to search, really it's a poor substitute. I would seriously look at the 3.7, happy medium? I think they are a bit rare. But might be awesome.
  9. Well I’m probably a idiot. But I decided to swap my Jenvey throttles bodies out for something a little more vintage/ classic. These are late 70s early 80s SK throttle bodies. They are 47mm that taper to 45. I picked them up off yahoo japan. They have a nice vac balance port on them. I bought two sets off a single seller. Now time to fabricate a single piece fuel rail and find a tps sensor that works. They should match my SK intake nicely. The old SK stuff is so nicely cast. I’m excited!
  10. Love it. Keep it up,t he VQ is one of my favorite motors in a z.
  11. I now need you to build me a 6 speed trans that will fit in my series 1 without modifications to the tunnel:)
  12. Well injectors are back and I have efi spark plugs. I spent a while tuning this weekend and with Tioga’s help I think I finally found one of my major problems. The tps was set at its highest sensitivity. It would bounce from .34-.49. Thus causing the ecu to think it needs to apply timing and fuel and making it run terrible. I turned it to the lowest and it’s rock solid at 0% and .01 of a voltage change. Haltech is a nice system. But wow is there a lot of settings. If anyone needs Z car help. I would recommend Tioga with Automotive Solutions! IMG_6375.MOV
  13. I have 445cc from injector clinic. They are data matched and come with the details you need for your ecu.
  14. I can't wait to see flow data! I bet it will do well. I would buy it just for the looks. So much better then the stock.
  15. Well my injectors are fine! Gosh I hope it was the spark plugs.
  16. Tioga has been helping me a lot! I think I have a better handle on the haltech software, which is very complicated. A few things we have found/ learned I was using stock plugs, which I switched in at some point. I upgraded to plugs with resistors (BPR6ES) I was attempting to use throttle % for maps, but no map existed. All were map. So I don't know what the ecu was even doing or deciding what do to. Tioga gave me some helpful maps to use as a base for throttle % based tune. I figured out how to turn data logging on. I am kind of hopeful that the spark plug without resistors could be my issue. Causing feedback all across my ecu and wiring, and causing the injectors to drop or misfire. Gosh that would be a easy fix and dumb of me to miss that. Thanks again Tioga!
  17. Project hand throttle is done and working. Should help with cold starts with my ITB. Until I get my iac system sorted out. IMG_6219.MOV
  18. My elite 750 has 6 drivers. Wired directly. Spark plugs are definitely fouled.
  19. Tach follows what the software is saying for rpms. Spark seems fine, but also on my potential list. But I don't believe that would cause the injector strange clicks. Lets wait to see what injector labs says. Then move on from there. I am hopeful, it sure would be an easy fix.
  20. I have data logging turned on. But it’s not saving. I will ask haltech what needs to be done to fix that. Originally the tuner only had it turned on after a certain rpm. I just found and fixed that setting. I’m getting fairly good at the haltech software. But it’s a pretty steep learning curve. I have dual Haltech o2 sensors, plus fouled plugs plus terrible odor. Currently it won’t get above 11. That’s even running the injectors at like 10 out of 100 in the software.
  21. The issue is what is causing the the injectors to miss fire out of sync with the motor, and so loudly. You can hear the normal/ feel the normal clicks of them firing correctly, then it will be just odd giant clicks randomly, the motor stumbles in these moments. I believe it's just a dumping fuel at that moment. Is it the ecu, setting, trigger or a fault in the injectors? Since it ran fine prior, which is when was running 1-3ohm in the settings. Then got worse, I am guessing it's something that slowly broke. Like a winding on an injector. Or the ecu.
  22. The map sensor on my haltech is built in, which is the one that I am using, it's part of the ecu. It was reading correctly, I just don't remember what psi it was pulling at idle. Settings are correct. I am thinking trigger errors will be one of the next things I troubleshoot.
  23. Sadly I tried turning off o2 correction. Coolant temp and such are spot on. I use psi and didn’t write it down. But it’s pulling a strong vacuum. Especially my balance bar intake.
  24. It will idle below 1300. The terrible clicks go away above. It runs crazy rich no matter what though.
  25. Thanks guys. I don’t believe it’s a setting. But I could be wrong. It slowly got worse and worse which has me stumped. I trust injector labs and the owner. He has been great. He also claims he doesn’t think it is the injectors. I made the decision to test them when they stop reacting to commands. Basically steps towards finding the issue and resolving it. My guess is they come back fine and then next I send the ecu in. I tried early tunes that had everything correct and used to run fine. Basically the first tunes, before we started the process of tuning via the fuel maps. I was told that the wiring thickness would be different inside the coil on the injectors. Lower ohm would have more robust windings. Higher Ohm would be thinner, higher ohm coils are actually smaller diameter as well. Again, I’m not an expert or electrical engineer.
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