DuffyMahoney
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Everything posted by DuffyMahoney
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I finally got my fully sequential ITBs to fire and run! She is a little rough. But pretty amazing base tune and help from Richard Boyk! I can’t wait to get a fully dialed tune running. Worst part is my fuel pump is super loud.
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Tioga, looking awesome! Well I like the look better! Still a little busy.
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I gave up on mounting the fuel pressure regulator on the engine bay walls, I hated the amount of hoses that crossed over the engine bay. I ended up buying a radium -6 direct mount FPR (very nicely made). Then I had an adapter machined to match the 14mm fittings that the Jenvy fuel rail uses. I should be able to split both sides of the FPR to my 7mm return and my 5mm return. I think I came out great. Very neat design by radium, it can be mounted in any direction.
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I am going to attempt to move my FPR to the drivers side and use it. That way I am hard lines under the car. I will T the return from 7mm to 5mm and return via the stock 5mm line and the 7mm vapor vent line. Then use the 5/16 to feed the ITBs. Hopefully it works! I bought some 7mm efi fuel hose from belmetric. So that should give me a good amount more flow. Hopefully my push lock fittings work with it. My FPR mount was waiting to fail, i cut a lot of the strength out. So I will need to fabricate another and put it in my stock coil spot. Should end up looking pretty clean and simple.
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I took to a local radiator shop. They actually said they did it all the time. I was told its a common thing for radiator shops to do.
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The black tank is mine. The other was some image from google. I had mine, acid cleaned, then sealed. Then the exterior is powder coated.
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My stock lines are 5mm return and 8mm supply. So the Return gets a 3/16 line. Which is pretty tiny.
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First major setback. The return stock hardline is too small and is causing pressure to build up. Lowest I can get is 75psi. My plan is reuse the 8mm fill line as my new return then run 3/8 new flexible hose from the pump to the fuel rail. Then 5/16 line from the FPR to the 8mm stock line back to the tank. Then Y the 8mm (5/16) hardline to stock 5mm return and the 10mm tank vent.
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So cool, I can't wait to see it done.
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Telsa swapped Porsche is my next build I will attempt (If I can find the money). https://www.zelectricmotors.com/ They don't use the model 3 batteries. They all model S battery packs. https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=4&products_id=463&osCsid=do45arn6gds71gq6vo893ikdk5 You can buy pretty much everything you need to swap them into a VW or Porsche. Pretty neat stuff. Telsa Motor https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=8&products_id=476&osCsid=do45arn6gds71gq6vo893ikdk5
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Someday! I don't get out much though.
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now Engine bay is wired Now to hook up the fuel pump, keyed ignition and tach
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The 240sx trans fits perfectly in an early 240z. No cutting required. It's almost identical for the shifter hole. You need to buy the new mount. Godzilla race works has a package for it. I have this in my 240z.
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I have the AHP and I love it, I have professional welding buddies that help me when I want a part to look nice. They are always impressed.
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I got pretty far but I didn’t finish. Tedious work
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Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well. Now the easy stuff is left. Hopefully I will get that all done tomorrow.
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This is my plan for the injector positive. Basically a Y splice and crimp. The pulley wire isn’t cut. Just the sheath is removed. Then crimped another wire onto it. Then a dab of soldier. Then heat shrink. Should work perfectly. It’s just going to take a long time!
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It’s shorter. Which I didn’t want. I actually called Jenvy and asked for raw in the standard size. They said no
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That was also an option, but your tape lines would have to be perfect. Honestly I wish the throttle bodies were raw aluminum.
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The Mangoletsi intake is very well thought out and made. It was on the top of my list. SK Mangoletsi Jenvy
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Those look to be very similar intakes. I would guess most intakes were copies of designs. So similar runner length and spacing. Maybe I am wrong. Who knows, point being I dislike the look of fuel rails:) I was going to cover my tubes between ITB in some sort of cloth to mimic fuel hose, but decided against it when i didn't have any on hand. I have owned a Harada, FET, SK and TWM. I love my SK, to me it'just old school cool with the linkage. Plus the casting is light years nicer then the harada. Which I couldn't live with.
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I have owned 4 triple intakes. All are slightly different lengths, spacing etc... the dcoe pattern spacing is the same. But spacing from carb to carb would be different.
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I actually don’t like the look of one piece fuel rails. All triple intakes are different. So they could make one for their own intake. But not all without a lot of effort. My SK has the idle bump/ stop.
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These injectors can be pointed any direction. I will leave enough pig tail for each to plug and unplug easily. Shouldn't be an issue. I am copying the datsun spirit wiring and injector wiring setup. I bought the kit from them. Swap wires? No room to change any of the wiring without a ton of effort. It's all shielded and should be perfectly fine though. I am using a hall effect home sensor on the cam. Not enough wiring length for the crank sensor wiring to be on the injector side.
